6 speed Getrag swap into a supercharged 97 SC400

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I picked up another shifter. Now I have 4! Here are my choices now.

Stock 97
Stock 94 (its shorter throw than the 97)
Stillway (has the inline shifting mode for 1-4)
C's ( these have a great reputation)

So what would you guys use?
 
Wow the car looks like so much fun! :notworthy:


I too have heard good things about C's. Try that one!
 
I use the early OEM on my Getrag; it's short enough for me, but I know that many Supra owners opt for the C's.

My Getrag doesn't like to go into reverse when it's cold, and I'd think if I had a real short shifter, it would compound that problem.
 
C's shifters are some of the most direct short shifters on the market. They're not too short, but just always right.

they're not like B&M's which are always super short.

TRD is always dead on as well from the car's i've felt with them.
 
Scott, how's that clutch setup driving now? It's been about a month and ??? miles that you've put on it? Any issues or are you ready to give it a full recommendation?
 
Great posts!

I'm going to have to modify my adapter plate similar to yours! I think I may use hex head bolts though, instead of standard bolts, so that the holes milled into it for that aren't quite as large
 
Scott, how's that clutch setup driving now? It's been about a month and ??? miles that you've put on it? Any issues or are you ready to give it a full recommendation?


I have only put about 350 miles on it. Not quite ready for a full recommendation yet. It is driving well, Sometimes the clutch wants to chatter instead of slip. After I get some more miles I will see if it goes away. The car is really fun to drive. Once my stand alone arrives I will up the boost to 10-11 and its going to the dyno!
 
I will do so, how important is it to relieve the bell housing so that the started doesn't (or may not) touch it, and what about the pilot bearing spacer. Is that specific to your application, or do you think all trans' should use it because of the adapter spacing all v160's back that far? What about using 2 bearings?


If you nothing else, Make sure you add these two bolts at the top. I feel that are really important.
 
I will do so, how important is it to relieve the bell housing so that the started doesn't (or may not) touch it, and what about the pilot bearing spacer. Is that specific to your application, or do you think all trans' should use it because of the adapter spacing all v160's back that far? What about using 2 bearings?


I am really sure you will need to relieve the bell housing, Mine would have hit enough the starter would not engage hardly any.
You could probally use 2 bearings but You might want to measure it out and make sure it doesnt hit the input shaft splines.
 

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The bearing will be totally dependent on the flywheel you use. I have the flywheel type designed for the V160 (2JZGTE) and I need no extra bearing all, just the one designed for 2JZGTE.

Scott, on the holes you drilled at the very top, so the starter bolts clear, are you sure is necessary? I can still remove my starter without removing the adapter. I just start sliding the starter forward as I turn the bolts. You can't remove the bolts, but I don't think those will fail. :)

Scott is right about the bellhousing clearance. This is not really an issue with the adapter, it's just that the v160 bellhousing is too small to fit the starter gear. I'm just glad the 1UZ ring gear fits in the bellhousing!
 
If you are refering to the half moon cut outs at top, not those are not required, just handy. The two countersunk bolts up top I feel really strong about for strength. before I made any mods to the adaptor ring it was really apparent that the plates would tend to separate. Just my opinion.
 
OK, thanks. FWIW, I came up with the original design of the adapter, so I am curious about its abilities. My adapter is installed, but I have not driven the car yet (still have a lot of work to do). Originally, my intention was to have some "helper bolts" in some areas, like you did, but I thought it would be overkill. Once the bellhousing was bolted up, I was assuming the bellhousing's "flatness" would prevent any flex, but maybe not.
 
OK, thanks. FWIW, I came up with the original design of the adapter, so I am curious about its abilities. My adapter is installed, but I have not driven the car yet (still have a lot of work to do). Originally, my intention was to have some "helper bolts" in some areas, like you did, but I thought it would be overkill. Once the bellhousing was bolted up, I was assuming the bellhousing's "flatness" would prevent any flex, but maybe not.


That is true, I could have over killed it. I just notice the plates wanting to seperate at the top when I was mocking it up and decided better safe than sorry.
 
Scott, haven't heard from you in awhile. How is your setup doing? What's your "long term" impression of the clutch now?
 
Scott, haven't heard from you in awhile. How is your setup doing? What's your "long term" impression of the clutch now?

Clutch is doing great! Just wish the transmission was not as loud. Its a Lexus, I set idle higher and it helps but still not that ofa luxury coupe. I am giving serious consideration to buying a stock TT dual mass flywheel and seeing what I could do to transplant it in my car, this of course would open the door to tons of clutch options.
 
You're right, the noise can be annoying with the Getrag. I idle my Supra around 1100 so it's not that bad, but it's always there.

A number of Supra owners have changed back to the stock LUK dual mass flywheel for noise and driveability reasons, but for a UZ you'd have to slot the holes in the flywheel to match the UZ.
 


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