Twin Turbo Headers

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Lextreme II

Just call me "Lex"
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City of Halos
I have been looking at stainless steel pipes and they are very expensive. An average price for a 2.5" 90 degrees is about 25-30 USD. and if i get all the pipes for the twin turbo would be around 400-500 just material alone. I got the idea from Chrisman (thanks bro) However, i have mention this about few years ago on one of my articles about the Turbo Crown headers.
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I got those Tundra Headers from ebay and got it for 100 usd plus 26 shipping. Total is 126 USD. I plan to cut the flange off and tig weld a 2.25 stainless pipe to it and make my TT that way.

Once i added the 2.25" SS pipe and chrome it again. It will looks like the new pipes be part of it. This route is very cheap and easy. The SS headers flanges alone are 120 USD. The SS headers are tig weld and very good qaulity.

This package also comes with two header gaskets and two CAT gaskets along with bolts and nuts. Very good price. Here are some pics
 
hi lex, yes those are them.. the only single pipe i had to change is the one that is the farthest out-of the header that goes on the right side of the engine..the one 2 pics up.-farthest left-kinda got a wierd shape tp it..
that pipe will interfere with the frame rail, so a lower, straighter pipe will need to be welded in place.. then of course, like lex said, you cut the flanges off and fit your own ends on..il post pics of how the ones i ended up with look..
if you guys do this, dont weld anything until you trial fit the headers in the chassis..
 
in the pic above -although its difficult to see-- is the header with the one pipe that i changed.. if you look , you can see that its relatively close to the frame rail..remember this is after i removed and replaced the one tube..sorry for the bad/dark pics, but when i was taking them, i didnt realize that alot of other guys may be interested in seeing them..
 
hi ryan..no, i didnt remove the engine.. i didnt even loosen up the mounts..
the old exhaust mani's were difficult to remove/loosen fasteners..but once they were out, it was relatively easy after that..
to fit the new headers, i did remove the radiator-and AC..but they went in from the front..
remember that i ended up not puting the AC compressor back in..so i ended up with plenty of room for a smooth flowing large 3 inch down pipe.. im prety sure if you use smaller pipe, and are good at welding bends together, you can fit the ac compressor back on.. oh yea, the new headers have bungs for oxygen sensors in them.. you will need to remove them, try cut them off and save them.. i think they were also stainless.. i think i ended up using the bungs on the down pipes..
 
the power steering i didnt have to remove to install the headers.. just the ac.. the radiator i removed so i had more room to manuever the new headers into place..--actually, i rmember getting the original manifolds off was the hardest part..i think some of the bolts were hard to get to.. and i also remember taking the heat shield off on the drivers side because i could not get the manifold out before removing the heat shield....
anyway, i did all this stuff on the garage floor, my lift was busy-had a car on it at the time..so, most reg guys with good tools should be able to do this--without a lift..
 
I can see you did some gymnastics during the installation. I didnt have to take out my engine to install my header either. However, Ryan's mechanic is trying to make a turbo system without a spare motor or taking the motor out. Its impossible!
 
yea, if i had to make the headers from scratch, it would have been much more of a challenge.. the reason i had made my friend get the headers , is so i had the flanges.. when i realized that they might fit between the rails with minimum amount of work i was pleased--it saved me about 1 weeks worth of work..
 
Chrisman,

What year sc4000 did you work on? I have heard that the later year models require the engine to be pulled in order to get either the right or left header off. I'd like to confirm if this is true.
 
pro240 is right.. i think i remember taking the exhaust studs out.. i also remember still having to remove the heat shield that is on the original header also..at least one one side --to slip exh mani out.. the sc400 i worked on was a 92..
tundraeddie-- these stainless aftermarket manifolds are for a tundra..but with a little work become Twin Turbo SC400 -super duper double luper-headers...he,he..
 
We removed the studs and slide the header in. I was talking about making a twin turbo headers without taking the motor our or use s dummy block.
 
with the headers i'm making now, leaving the studs in just isn't an option (the worst thing is having to remember i have to leave room to get them back in!!!) - and i doubt it would be with studs that long. i guess in your situation could always swap them for bolts.
 
I believe he can do it. If not, I will source a local blown engine for mock fitting. His first rendition will be with mild cheap steel for the mock up, once fitted properly, the pipinf will be from T304 stainless. I may buy a set of Tundra headers as well. It's a thought...

Ryan
 
hi ryan, for the price of the tundra headers-there hard to beat.. your fab guy will be glad to see them--they should save him some work-and you some money and time..
all this trouble will be worth it.. bob is still havin a blast with the car, and i was talking to him about the texas thing that goes on--for the supras? isnt there a big meet that happens in texas every year?.. maybe well see you there-- we could have a TT v8 section.. :) i do need to rebuild him a trans though.. wish me some luck on that one-- i havent rebuilt an automatic in 10 years..
 


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