Twin turbo tubular headers

[SuperRunner]

Just finished these up for a friend.

 

[cjsupra90]

Nice but I do have to ask, are they stainless??

If so, the welds are way to hot and I would be worried about cracking along the welds due to carbide precipitation at the welds...

 

[SuperRunner]

Sched 40 pipe stainless pipe. Had to get a bit hotter for the thickness. No way these thing will crack.

But I don't think it got as hot as you think. I didn't know needed to clean the stainless, so a lot of that is just a little discoloration from not getting cleaned first.

 

[cjsupra90]

That is not discoloration form not cleaning, not cleaning it will leave trash and spots in the weld, not cause it to turn gray... They are just way to hot. Yes, you do have to increase heat with thickness, but not that much.. It should have been done with a Root pass then a Cap pass...

Being that you said you didn't know that you had to clean it, Im guessing that you didn't back gas or purge them either did you?

Im honestly not trying to knock your work, but the welds are way to hot and I wouldn't be suprised one bit if they already have intergranual corrosion and cracking...

Here are a few pics of some Sch. 40 pipe and fittings welded to 3/16 plate and they all pass x-ray and are cert.'ed for use in aerospace and nuclear power production... If I turned in a part that had welds like those on the harder / manifolds, I probably would have gotten fired..... Even these are a tad bit to hot....

 

[SuperRunner]

Look at the welds where it is joined to the flange. I used the same amount of heat, but it was clean.

I tried back purging, but it did not help or change anything.

BTW, my heat was set to 45 amps on sched 40 pipe. You can't tell me that is too hot.

 

[cjsupra90]

The Flange is thicker and will absorb more heat so being that you said that you used the same heat at the flange and at the pipe to pipe joints tells me even more that the joints are way to hot. Even at the flange it looks too hot...

Either your machine is way the F off or your feeding me BS about those all being welded at 45amps.... All the welds above that posted pics of are done between 120 to 140 amps... Hell, I weld 16ga (1/16") stainless with 35 to 45 amps and it dont turn gray like that....

 

[SuperRunner]

I will have to get a closeup of the flange welds.

Yes the flange is thicker, but I am still welding to the pipe.

I may have kicked it up to 60amp, but no higher.

120amp on yours? Uhm, something isn't right on that, or you are only putting your pedal down half way. I weld 1/4" aluminum at 120amps.

My welds only turn grey when I add filler. I think I am adding the filler wrong. Without it, my welds are a nice gold color with slight "rainbow" effect. As soon as I add filler....BLEH!!!

Pointers on that? I have tried many different ways.

 

[cjsupra90]

Umm nope, not half way on the peddle.... and most metals requier 1amp per .001" of thickness for proper penatration so being that 1 1/2 sch 40 pipe is .109", that would mean that you would need about 109amps.... When I weld sch. 40 pipe at work, I have the machine set to 150amps and the peddle is full compressed to start and and then backed off to about 3/4 depressed for most of the weld... Im sorry, what I typed before was wrong about the 120 to 140... Its really 100 to 120 range... My readout on the machine is very accurate and the machine is accurate cause it is a requerment by Seamens/Westinghouse and NASA that our machines be tested, calibrated and documented every 90 day.

As for 1/4" aluminum and only 120 amps, your not getting any penatration on that... what frequancy and ballance are you set at when welding 1/4" at 120amps? What setup are you using for AL, the oldschool pure tungsten balled or have you changed over to pointed Lanthanated?

Thats even more strange that its only turning gray when you add filler.. When you add filler, you actually cool the weld so it should be even more less likely to show signs of being over heated.... The only things that come to mind is that either your using Sh*t filler (which I doubt), or your heat is too cold which is causing a you to have to stay in one spot to long thus cause the over heat... Low heat and prolonged time will actually equate to over heating of the weld.. Try using more heat and a faster depo rate.. also, what is your gas flow set to?

Just out of curiousity though, what material are the pipes and Els, 304L or 316L? and what Filler are you using?

 

[SuperRunner]

All of the butt joints are tapered, not flat so it make it a lot thinner requiring less heat.

pipe is 304.

I forget the filler, but I have tried the same filler from multiple brands and they say it is the correct stuff for what I am doing. So it is something I am doing wrong I know that.

I am using old school I am sure. I have an old syncrowave 250.

I will have to check the freq when I get home. I just know where I put it on the dial.

I get plenty of penetration on the aluminum. Maybe I just weld too slow. A faster weld would require more heat, but I am not good enough to hold steady like that. Still learning.

 

[cjsupra90]

Beveled edges do not reguier less heat. You still have a lot of thick material sucking up heat from the weld... The beveled edge is just easier to burn through...

My guess it that your getting it from the lower heat and slow depo rate...

If the pipes are 304, then make sure that your filler is 308 but any of the stainless fillers will work fine and its not that your adding the filler wrong..

Im still willing to bet that it is the low heat and slow depo rate...

Also, do you remember what size filler you were using... It should be 3/32". If your using thinner filler, then that just more makes me think that it is that you are having to stay in one spot to long to melt enough filler to fill the joint. especially with that low of a heat setting...

 

[SuperRunner]

I will check it out and get back to ya

 

[cjsupra90]

alright, sounds good

 

[RedPhoenix]

either way... nice easy design, looks good

 

[XR8tt]

I think you may have one of those flanges welded on wrong side..
I'm sure the right hand side rear two ports had top hole facing back ??

 

[Death By Bass]

I think you may have one of those flanges welded on wrong side..
I'm sure the right hand side rear two ports had top hole facing back ??

they both appear to be "wrong" going by the pics I have of a friends extractors.

I assume these are both meant to be facing forward for a turbo, or turbos to be mounted at the front of the engine..

 

[XR8tt]

Yes the only reason I know this I'm making a set myself and the car is at different address to home.. I have a dummy block in car and one at home.. So this was the last thing I checked before leaving..
I'm using the thicker std flanges with std primeries cut off..
Using 32mm steam pipe..

 

[1UZPWR]

perhaps now that it's all welded, it wouldn't be a bad idea to cut some slots between in the flanges, between each port, to allow thermal expansion of each individual pipe/flange area

 

[XR8tt]

Or drill the outer flange holes bigger..
As Per Corky..

 

[SuperRunner]

These face forward not back, that is why they look backwards.

Yeah, could cut some slots. Although 1/2" SS will be quite difficult make changes to.

 

[XR8tt]

Its not a matter of being hard to drill..
If there is expansion and there will be and if there is no clearance ??
The flange plate will warp and leak!!