Turbo Gains on 1UZ-FE!

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Turbo

I'm not sure how your Saker engine bay looks like. But in case if there's not enough space there for turbos, you may try to position the turbos under the car in the rear exhaust section. I never tried this method before but I've read and seen about the projects of the turbos mounted in the back. One project is for a Chevrolet truck and the other project is for an Acura Integra. From what they stated, there's no turbo lag because they sized and matched the turbos correctly. In my opinion, I'm not sure about that, but it could be doable.
 
After reading up about the engine on the Saker site, I fear it may be too single minded for a turbo conversion, I'd expect you to gain 50 BHP in relaible road trim at the most, but you 'll lose more than that in useable torque. As a result of three factors

a) The beautiful Manifolds you're you're using would basically need to be scrapped. The only place you could consider cutting the would be after the pulse convertor, and that would only be valid if you're considering a single turbo conversion which, would kill the low down torque and the responsiveness you currently have.

b) The Lovely cam profiles you've got will not work with a heavily pressurised system, as they will likey incude a large amount of overlap, which whilst Ideal for highly tuned NA and Mechanical applications, will not motivate flow through the Turbine.

c) With a CR of 10+:1 don't evern consider anything more than around 3-4 psi without rebuilding the bottom end.

The moral is, Highly tuned NA or Optimised Turbo, not both.

If you're dead set on a Turbo, you'd be best off starting from scratch and building the Bottom end and Cams with that in mind.
 
Your compression ratio may be a concern for turbo duty. Unless you are running race gas or alcohol, compression should be under 9.0 to 1 for even minor boost. With a small cam and poor flowing head, I was able to run 12 psi on 9.0 compression before ping set in on 93 octane pump gas. Once I ported the head and went to a bigger cam though, I could not run over 9 psi of boost in the same motor. Of course it was making just as much power. In both cases, I was ping limited. Same max cylinder pressure resulted in ping due to the poor head design in that motor (a 1983 Toyota 22RE). What I am getting at here is that your cam(S) don't sound bad for boost, as long as you know what you are going to get. A couple years later I splurged for 8.4 to 1 compression J&E forged pistons and contoured the chambers a bit to reduce hot spots. With a cam pretty close to the set you have, I was ablke to run 13 psi of boost before ping, and it made around 300 lb ft of torque from 3200 to 5000 rpm and about 300 hp at 5500 or so. I revved it all the way to 7250, it was falling off a bit past 6000, but still pulling hard. This was out of 2.4 litres, or 144 cu in. Without the turbo, that motor would make about 170 hp.

For comparison sake, the cam I ran was a 268S from CompCams. The ADV. DUR. was 268 on both intake and exhaust, with 110 degree lobe centers. I ran it 4 crank degrees adv. I know this sounds small compared to yours, but CompCams uses VERY FAST lift ramps as the .050 duration was 223 degrees. That is actually bigger than your chart shows. Here are the opening and closing points at .050 lift.

exhaust opens 45.5 BBDC
intake opens 5.5 BTDC
exhaust closes 2.5 BTDC 3 degrees of overlap at .050
intake closes 37.5 ABDC

Written the same way, your cams look like this.

Exhaust opens 38 BBDC
Exhaust closes 8 BTDC
Intake opens 5 ATDC 13 degrees with both valves under .050 lift.
Intake closes 31 ABDC

This is certainly not too much duration for a turbo. The lower compression needed to make a turbo useful, and the loss of the great exhaust system will cost you some of you excellent off boost power, but once the turbo comes on, you will need a crow bar to get the smile off of your face. If your motor truely does breathe like those dyno charts show, I figure your exhaust is going to cost you 40 hp once you restrict it inota turbo, and the lowered compression will probably rob another 40 or so taking you back to just (kidding a bit) 320 hp before boost, and then adding 50% at 8 psi (very realistic for a proper turbo setup) nets you 320 + 160 = 480 hp. If you can shove enough fuel into it, and not ping, you could run a tick more boost and make an even 500 hp without too much trouble. Sized right, it could also make 400 to 500 lb ft of torque down around 3500 rpm as well.

It is true that 8 psi ( more than 50% over atmospheric pressure) will not yield 50% more air flow, BUT... all of the frictional losses have already beeen taken care of. There is a small increase in losses, but the extra cylinder pressure is not going to make the oil pump, rings, cams, and accessories, 50% harder to turn. In fact, 14 psi is usually enough to double the power.

Gary M.
 
I'm not sure what all the lengthy letters are about,but in my opinion with the proper fueling and some timing retard at the top end you should expect at least another 100 rwhp with 6 psi regardless of whether you use supercharging or turbo. My experience is with centrifugal supercharging on the 2UZFE V8 in the US Tundra pickup. My kit which can be seen at www.boostedtundras.com uses the Powerdyne S/C non intercooled with fueling by an additional 750cc injector controlled by the URD additional injector controller. This kit uses no timing control and has no detonation at 5psi. The kit adds 95-100 RWHP to the stock 204 for a total of 284 in the early motors and 325 for the VVTI motor.
I am currently driving a prototype Rotrex with air to liquid intercooling at 6 psi with timing control. I haven't dynoed it yet but I am guessing at 135 over stock. Your cams seem mild enough and the compression is a bit high. Add some timing control --keep the boost reasonably low and enjoy Rob
 
Thanks guys but unfortunately I have gone the way of the Chevy LS1. I ended up selling my Lexus motor and I am building a custom LS1. Not to get off topic or start any engine wars but the LS1 is crazy powerful. I'm doing a forged bottom end on one motor and a stock bottom end on the other. The forged engine is getting a huge set of cams and aftermarket heads, which will be good for 525-550hp at the crank. The other engine is just getting a nice cam which shoudl be good for 424-450hp at the crank. People have made much more on just a cam or cam/heads but I'm not expecting to be at the top and the numbers I stated up top are not the top of the food chain either. So regardless to say I'm getting something that is lighter weight and much more powerfull. Plus the fun part is that the 450hp version is going into my RX7 I imported from Japan and the 550hp version is going in my 2000 pound street legal Saker SVS. It shodul be wild.

Later,
Adam
 
Yeah, I always like the LSx motors, and wouldn't mind getting one if it wasn't for one little factor........IT ISN'T TOYOTA!!!!, and I am not about to put a chevy motor in a toyota, no mater how much I like it.

If I ever own something besides a toyota, the LS1 would probably be my 1st option, but I doubt that will ever happen.....Toyota till I DIE!!!!
 
When I read this a part of me thinks - that's so narrow minded; there's such a big world out there.

Problem is the rest of me thinks "F*ck, Yeah!"
 
Norrow minded? HA! You have no idea. I started out when I was 17 building big block domestics, that is all I did. I got sick of them, and how many there are out there. I like being unique, not norrow minded.

The car I own right now for my daily driver, is a 1977 celica GT. One of the reasons I bought this car is because where I live, I have NEVER seen one. I have been here for 10 years, and havn't seen a single one. I know they are probably here, I just haven't seen them.

The funny thing is, 95% of the people out there think that it is some sort of off-year mustang. HAHA!!! Well, I am going to confuse them even more by putting a big noisy lexus/toyota v8 in it, and a big sticker that says "POWERED BY TOYOTA", and they will be like...why would you put a wimpy little toyota motor in a mustang...until I start it up of course.

I have owned over 50 vehicles now over the last 14 years, and quite a bit of them have been domestics. Norrow mindedness has nothing to do with it.
 
Personally, I'm totaly narrow minded - I respect Toyota, from the perspective of being one of the last manufacturers in the general domain to give up on the Rear Drive format for real cars.

I'd go with Honda or Ferrari if it were on the basis of pure romanticism, though. The thing about Toyota is that they seemed to kep a genuine competition ethos going (1995's indiscretions excepting), alongside a certain blue collar accessiblity and white colar elegance, and since I'd love to run a V8 in my Supra, to dirty the waters with anything outside the family is just, plain, wrong.
 
My choice of the Lexus 1UZ was pretty easy. I had to run a toyota sourced motor due to racing class rules in SCCA. Add to that the California engine change rules, and it had to be from a rear drive CAR, not a truck and be newer than the chassis. That left me with basically 2 motors. A 2JZ or a 1(3)UZ. Now I want the car to corner, so the long iron 2JZ was eliminated.

If I was just building a car to go fast with no rules, the Chevy LS's are hard to beat. They are even more compact and lighter than a 1UZ, and make easilly as much power with easy to get performance parts.

I do have to say though, I sure love that 32 valve sound.

Gary M.
 
Thanks guys but unfortunately I have gone the way of the Chevy LS1. I ended up selling my Lexus motor and I am building a custom LS1. Not to get off topic or start any engine wars but the LS1 is crazy powerful. I'm doing a forged bottom end on one motor and a stock bottom end on the other. The forged engine is getting a huge set of cams and aftermarket heads, which will be good for 525-550hp at the crank. The other engine is just getting a nice cam which shoudl be good for 424-450hp at the crank. People have made much more on just a cam or cam/heads but I'm not expecting to be at the top and the numbers I stated up top are not the top of the food chain either. So regardless to say I'm getting something that is lighter weight and much more powerfull. Plus the fun part is that the 450hp version is going into my RX7 I imported from Japan and the 550hp version is going in my 2000 pound street legal Saker SVS. It shodul be wild.

Later,
Adam

Adam, IMHO, Great Choice!

The LSx is smaller externally and probably lighter and as you said both powerful and well supported.

Did you ever dyno your 1UZ?
 
A 400hp N/A 1uz-fe motor byself is an amazing feet to accomplish... I didn't think that was possible in most cases, and is it street legal?...With Cams, heads, exhaust and intake I guess it can be done... Must be nice...

I want a 400hp N/A 1uz-fe motor...How exactly do I achieve that without boost? Not to get off topic...What cam duration, what kind of head porting, what type of exhaust piping and setup, and what intake, ITB's, BFI or what?

Did I miss the details somewhere in this thread? If so sorry....
 
A 400hp N/A 1uz-fe motor byself is an amazing feet to accomplish... I didn't think that was possible in most cases, and is it street legal?...With Cams, heads, exhaust and intake I guess it can be done... Must be nice...

I want a 400hp N/A 1uz-fe motor...How exactly do I achieve that without boost? Not to get off topic...What cam duration, what kind of head porting, what type of exhaust piping and setup, and what intake, ITB's, BFI or what?

Did I miss the details somewhere in this thread? If so sorry....
John,
I tried to PM you but it's blocked. You might need to unblock it so I can reply to you. :yup:
 
Interesting stuff all in all... i made enquiries with a performance shop in NZ, they had a 550HP at the wheels Toyota Caldina... 1UZ with twin turbos. Completely stock motor, not decompressed at all. As far as I know, it has been completely reliable since build as it was a demo car for them. They are doing a conversion for me shortly, into a e36 BMW. NA for now but I know i want the twin turbos. When the wife lets me....
 
Yes i know that was my first ever post but I have previously a mitsubishi fan... i had an economical and reliable Mitsi Libero (1.8 turbo) that ran a 12.5 1/4 mile all day .... car buff to the detriment of my wallet
 
4 valve engines can run alot of compression..It just needs attention to tune before peak torque rpm... But again depends on expected power levels.. The Ford Mod 4.6 can make respectable power with std compression. Where the earlier pushrod 5.0 would have to be 8.5 to 9 to 1... 4 valve engines's have better exhaust scavenging, being higher rpm engines helps...
 
Interesting stuff all in all... i made enquiries with a performance shop in NZ, they had a 550HP at the wheels Toyota Caldina... 1UZ with twin turbos. Completely stock motor, not decompressed at all. As far as I know, it has been completely reliable since build as it was a demo car for them. They are doing a conversion for me shortly, into a e36 BMW. NA for now but I know i want the twin turbos. When the wife lets me....
I hope the 550 hp they mentioned is from the Dynojet and not Mustang Dyno. Mustang dyno always gives a much higher number than Dynojet, which is not accurate of estimating hp and tends to give us the feeling of a lot of power.
 


Top