Short runner manifold

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Not the current design no....it was prototype and has proven the benefits to me.

As i said above,, i'm working on a CAD design for a CNC'd option. It's gonna take time and won't be cheap. I'm no business so it's a lot of effort (and risk) to have multiples made and then have them sitting around for months/years.

I still have one flange plate left if anyone is keen to have a crack at version 1.0 themselves?
 
Sorry mate, just not a priority....it'll happen when it happens :)

Hopefully soon as i am keen...just got a million balls in the air at present. Car is currently apart as i'm fitting a cage, body deadener gone, interior stripped etc etc
 
Justin:

I just got a garage secured and started wrenching on my car again. I just picked up another lower plenum for my project so i plan on making my own but i don't own a TIG welder. I am decent at mig welding but that does not apply here... I wanted to know if those duraafix rods would be sufficient to create a strong bond to the parent metals. I have seen people use them firsthand and they seem to be pretty good. I have a local welding shop here where i can pick them up. I plan on probably tack welding the runner to the ports and then have an experienced welder finish. Any input?


Also I have been learning a lot about engine aspiration and right now I am learning about intake turbulence and was under the impression that straight runners would promote turbulence? I don't know on 1uz that this would be an issue but on paper smooth bends are a plus. Possibly only on N/A projects?
 
haha thanks for the tip, forgot I could use aluminum coil feed. thanks man! Noggin wasn't at full boost. :ponder:
 

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haha its ok, it doent seem that many people even realize a mig will do aluminum.

And the funny thing about that is that the MIG machine was originally invented for doing aluminum welding. The invention was back around WWII and was to produce fighter planes faster because TIG or as it was known the (Heli-arc) was to slow of a process and manufactures need a faster welding process to keep up with the plane demands and that is where we get MIG machines from....
 
Gotta' hand it to this forum.... learn new stuff everyday. I thought this engine design class at my college would be pretty hard. I didn't know an oil filter from an oil pump but over the last year this forum has educated me more than my parents would admit. lol I eat up these little vtec kids in class since... thats their basis for everything. Why wont this work braa?? Juz' tweak ur vtec and you'll run 9's. I want to off them all!! :chairshot:


My bad for putting honda fans on blast but i just love the beauty of being humble hehe.



I got all exccited aout my abilities w/ my MIG and then realized it's 1200 miles away in my parents' garage!! Wonder how cruel the shipping would be for such a heavy piece of luggage.
 
I have an arc welder and I just learned it can weld aluminum, too. I bought a small box of the aluminum sticks. The aluminum sticks are quite expensive. Each is nearly $2/stick, and 1 stick will burn out very fast. However, I reread again and the book said the stick aluminum can only have 50% strength...:scared:
 
If your MIG does end up making the 1200 mile trip and you want to swap it over to weld Al, it's a good idea to change the liner inside the hose to one specifically for Al. Makes the wire feed a lot smoother & hence a better weld.
 
If your MIG does end up making the 1200 mile trip and you want to swap it over to weld Al, it's a good idea to change the liner inside the hose to one specifically for Al. Makes the wire feed a lot smoother & hence a better weld.

Spool guns are the best, but short whips with a nylon liners will work quite fine....

Just if you do do anything else besides just tacking, make sure you use the push method, do not drag...

Set the machine for DC reverse polarity (electrode positive).

Use pure argon or argon helium mix.

Clean the aluminum very well using either a stainless steel wire brush (that is and has never been used on anything else besides aluminum or with a aluminum cleaner / etcher solution.... If using a wire brush, only go in one direction, not back and forth.... (the reason for all this is that you need to get the oxidation layer off or you wil not actually penitrate the base parent metal... The oxidation layer wont ment till about 3600*F or higher where as the base metal melts at around 1200*F.... This is why AC GTAW (TIG) is better for aluminum, cause of the cleaning action you get.. this is not to say that DC and GMAW (MIG) is not a good strong weld cause if done correctly, it is.. An example to show that it is, Freightliner (IIRC) still to this day MIGs all there truck bodies and some small avation companies still use GMAW process quite extensively for aircraft parts and bodys._
 
Cj

The welder is in the mail and it was like $50 to send but whatevs. Thanks for the tip on brushing, I always my projects b4 welding but I had no clue about the see-saw motion problem. I just wish i could afford ANY gas aided welding system. I know how to mig weld, not rocket science but a skilled steady hand goes a long way. I don't really weld with mine, just tack welds. I have a $350 flux-core lincoln electric. It's pretty damn low-tech but it managed to box my control arms and fabbed my rear strut bar. Both came out very rigid. Do you know whats the cheapest, effective way to weld aluminum? This rules out durafix rods... i need a machine lol.
 
Hey, no problem.....

You will need the gas for even tacking...

The brushing only applies to aluminum... This is because you can impregnate the aluminum with the oxide that you are trying to get rid of... Another thing is to only brush right as your about to weld... Aluminum reforms the oxide layer almost instantly, so dont wire it off until you are ready to weld it....
 


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