Question about ignitors / wiring

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Mat Grant

Member
Messages
153
Location
southern UK
Hi,

I've got a question about wiring the 1UZFE. I'm fitting the 1UZ into a different car, I need to know how to wire it, what's needed and what's not needed.

I've seen various posts decsribing different approaches from 'it's five wires and it will run' to ' you need this, this this, and this'

I've got the engine (from a 1992 soarer), the wiring that comes out of the engine into a large harness, which terminates in three plugs, which go into the ECU, - the ECU has four plugs.

Can anyone give me a written summary of whats needed? ie you need - X Y Z, you don't need and can remove - D E F etc.

I understand electronics, can solder properly, but have not wired an ECU into a car before. From what I gather there are things called 'Ignitors' which are some kind of CDI devices to drive the feeds to the coils.

Someone started a thread all about wiring the 1UZ, but only got as far as taking the plenum off and never finished it.

Any help appreciated - I'm in the UK.

thanks, Mat.
 
yer its only 5 wires like evryone says heheheheh

thats y it takes me a day and a half to get a 1uz wired up properly

little do they tell u about the relays u need to run and stuff so thats 4 wires per relay
well ive already got 8 wires so far
then u need to sort out inhibitor so it only starts in neut or park
then u need rev lights
gauges
alternator
battery
starter
ecu
fuel pump wired properly so it only runs when enige is running not with igniton like most dogey backyarders do it


if u want send me your loom and i will hook up all the powers to 1 wire
then u connect this to battery positive and it will run
it might not turn off and it might be dangerous
but hey everyone here who does it with 5 wires does it this way
even in a race car situation there is more than 5 wires to connect for a proper job

its just a matter of paying someone or studying the diagrams and understanding the wiring system
there are some wirtes up around i guess but they dont go deep into it and if u dont understand how efi systems work then it mnakes it even harder
 
I had a van the other day that was wired with 5 wires into the vehicle. Heres how it was BATT and IGN where linked together into a tiny factory perminate power supply , B+ and B1+ where linked together into a factory ingnition supply , start was fed in , and there was water temp , and oil temp (light didnt go due to a stuffed sender) and it ran. Fuel pump was off a switch on the seat and fans ran all the time. It didnt idle when cold , had crap fuel economy was was likely to catch fire due to where the trans loom was cut off and left. After lots of sorting it now starts and idle correctly and the ECU triggers the fuel pump like it should.

If you are not confident then find a sparkie who knows these motors and will stand behind their work. I have seen plenty of sparkies who still cant wire one of these motors correctly.

Cheers
 
this is y i cant b fkt helping with wiring these days
everyone just does it so dodgey then they blame u for giving them a bummm steer
ive been telling customers yep ok bring her in and ill ring u when done with the bill
if anyone touches it price goes UP WAY Up hehehehehehe
 
im just bout finished a 1uz into a surf this week
so far ive spent nearly 2 full days
had to strip 2lte harness and remove the 4wd section and other bits
then wire in the 2 dahs plugs form the surf into the stripped 1uz harness
then had to wire up battery cables and alternator
thermo fan and dash got changed to 6 cly from 4 runner so need to modify tacho and get rest of gauges to work lucky it was only 5 wires hehehe
 
Hi,

Thanks for the replies guys - I wasn't realistically expecting the 5 wire solution to work.

I am trained in electronic engineering, but without knowing the behaviour of the ECU there's not a lot I can do.

For example:

The ECU is powered by pins abc, grounded by pins xyz, the inputs are sensors abc and the outputs are def. Without this I can only connect the whole lot up and do a full replica of the Soarer loom. I can do this but is is frustrating to have to do this, when a large proportion is spurious or unneccesary.

The ignition stimulus is X, it is the output of ECU on pins xyz, at voltage a, it goes to device Y, to coils to plugs to ground.

I found a company in the UK that said they could do it, but wanted 2 days labour (£800) plus vat ie x1.175 plus any parts. What I really want is a steer on the design and I'm good to go.

At the moment I don't even know what an 'ignitor' is - I'm presuming it's a CDI, I don't have such a part (or parts) so need to identify it and get one (or two)(?)

I see a few days of fully replicating the Soarer wiring then chopping by trial and error on wires I think I don't need.

Cheers, Mat.
 
Hi all,

Back to the ignitors... Can anyone tell me:

What they look like? Size and shape etc?

Where they mount on the standard car?

How many on a astandard car?

Part numbers?

what wiring connectors and wire colours they have?

any of this info would be greatly appreciated. I need to find a set(?) of these.

Cheers, Mat Grant.
 
yr best of buying a workshop manual
or if your good on the net download one for free

you really need to learn about the whole system and how it works
its one thing getting it running
diagnosing is a whole new ball game which takes many years of experience
this tye of electronics is totally differnet to what yr used to
same goes with me when i try to build small electrical units i got no idea
i have an idea in my head which would work but i got no way of knowing hwo to build the unit i have bought some books but i hate reading and studying books hehe

anyway rip the enigne harness out and find some diagrams and get your multimeter
and start buzzing where the wires go

if u get sick of it after afew weeks sendus the harness and ill do it in a day heheheh
 
Mat,

There are two igniters and they are always mounted together. Not sure what car you're referring to but from experience they are usually on (your) drivers side of engine bay mounted above the wheel.

There are different igniters, and the plugs that fit them, on different V8 equiped cars.

The igniters simply plug into the main engine loom and must be earthed before they will fire.

The igniters are not unique to the 1UZ as they appear on different Toyota's over the years so finding replacements isn't impossible.

Feel free to PM me and I'll do my best to talk you through it.

The wiring isn't overly hard to get right but is much more involved than most people will tell you.

Sideshow is correct in saying 5 wires won't do the job but it isn't brain surgery otherwise my car would never have run!

Lots of Lextremer's have their cars running very nicely so if they can do it you can as well.
 
all the diagrams are on this site...from them you should be able to sus it..

also on this site are 2 basic wiring diagrams to get it running..they are all you need,but i would just use them to get the idea of what to do as they dont have fuel pump on "spark sensing relay" etc..ie abit dodgy if you crash..(no idea where on here,but they are..need to do a search).and are very basic, but they do work..and as such can be regarded as a starting point.

also somewhere i posted up a link to toyota ecu manuals..not specific to uz but very very useful, as it goes in some depth into what every ecu pin does..(do a search)

you will need your engine complete wiring loom and all engine bits..it should come with ignition exciters,mafm,etc..

£800 is not bad..its not the work thats hard,its the years of learning thats worth the cash..

note..its worth conecting the ecu brake,(alters fueling charcteristics on decel)and elecy load (ie to elecy fans,)pins up to.to name a few...an easy fuel cut off system can be made using lpg safty relay(senses spark energises,no spark denergises)..find that link to toyota manuals i was on about.they are for teaching mechanics about toyota efi systems.

one thing ..do not expect the wire colours to match those in the wiring dias found on this site, however the ecu pins etc are correct,so its just a matter of doing abit of thinking..
 
oh...you will need to find the missing plug for your ecu..it will be still in the donar car..or you can hard wire to the ecu pins..(good test of your soldering)
 
800 pounds is a rip off
pity your not in Australia
 

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Hi Guys,

Thanks for the replies - that's useful info, I've been through the diags and it looks like the referred to ignitors are the only thing I don't have that I need. Now I know where they are on a car I can start going round the breakers. I've got the ECU, got the air flow sensor.

Btw - something I can contribute, I would recommend NOT directly soldering onto an ECU pin, you run the risk of overheating the other side of that pin, depending what the connection is, and what sort of board it is, you might cause damage inside the ECU, depending what sort of board it has. I took the cover off the ECU ages ago but I can't remember what it looked like. Much better to find the plug and solder to that. If you have a problem you just need a new plug.

I'm going to start wiring this thing in few weeks, probably have more questions, thanks very much for the help so far.

I'll get round to posting some pics of the car at some point.

Cheers, Mat.
 
Hi Guys,


Btw - something I can contribute, I would recommend NOT directly soldering onto an ECU pin, you run the risk of overheating the other side of that pin, depending what the connection is, and what sort of board it is, you might cause damage inside the ECU, depending what sort of board it has. I took the cover off the ECU ages ago but I can't remember what it looked like. Much better to find the plug and solder to that. If you have a problem you just need a new plug.

I
Cheers, Mat.

then may i suggest learning to solder properly..there is no problem at all,with a decent weller station and years of practise(35+ years ,its my job.)
 
Any attempt to solder to the ECU's pins carries a risk.

If you can source the correct plug, do so before attempting to solder anything to the ECU.
 
blimey can no one solder!!!:p

i have no issue with it at all,one can solder hard (but f***ing thin)wires directly to sm cpu's if good enough..

still getting the plug would be best...and neatest.
 
Zen,

Soldering is an art.

Few people seem to be able to dod it well. My late Dad was into electronics so he taught me at a young age.

Most people end up with big blobs of solder all over the place.

Get the plug and use crimps to join it.

Soldered joints can fatigue and fail where (good) crimps will last forever.
 
Can't beat heat shrink over any join either.. It prevents wire from bending in the one spot Aha as well as good seal and insulation... The heat shrink we use has resin inside to keep moisture out...
 
I solder all my joints and make sure they can't flop around to fatigue the joint.

Never had one fail in 40 years of playing with cars.

I should have shares in a heat shrink factory. I use heaps.
 


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