Finally running (sort of)!

[Zuffen]

The sensor is in the rear of the manifold (facing the firewall) so I can't drill and I can get the plug off it where it is so the mani has to come out.

You're right and I think that's the best way to do it. Pull the whole shooting match in one piece.

At least it will let me sort out the leak at the same time.

I'll also fish out the spare Autronic wires that the supplier conveniently hid in the rear of the engine. They're capable of operating the thermo fans, shift light and a couple of other items which would make things easier. I currently use a few modules I've built to do this and it would tidy up the messy engine bay a little.

There's no bling in my engine bay that's fro sure.

 

[XR8tt]

Double check engine coolant and intake temp sensors are connected to correct ecu input ?? 160 seems to be coolant temp ??

 

[fredo]

air temp

hi rod i have a whipple and air temps are high to .i have a comador v6 air temp sensenserer mounted half way down the manifold .im making 251 rwk a the moment justen how do you calibrate the senser im not the sharpest knife in the draw ha ha

 

[JustenGT8]

I'm not sure you can Fredo, but i seem to recall the SM4 can be configured to run various sensors so you can check it's set up for the right one. Refer to manual

 

[Zuffen]

My SM4 came complete with the IAT sensor with its own dedicated plug so I know its the correct sensor.

Additionally Javuz said it was all wire up correctly when they ran their initial check on it so I guess it's either heat soak or a dud sensor.

 

[rms]

My SM4 came complete with the IAT sensor with its own dedicated plug so I know its the correct sensor.

Additionally Javuz said it was all wire up correctly when they ran their initial check on it so I guess it's either heat soak or a dud sensor.

Rod,
It may be wired correctly but the IAT in the software is set up wrong. Will check and get back to you.

Autronic base settings are not set to a default. They can be anywhere.

 

[rms]

Rod,

Under M1
- Input Analogs
- Input air temp
should be set to Autronic std. DO NOT USE linearization tables.

Should be pin 23 - white wire.

 

[Zuffen]

Errol,

Thanks for that I'll have a look and see if I can sort it.

 

[ed_ma61]

glad yavuz got it (semi) sorted for you rod - top guy, and certainly one of the best at what he does

 

[edz]

Mr No Bling!

The sensor is in the rear of the manifold (facing the firewall) so I can't drill and I can get the plug off it where it is so the mani has to come out.

There's no bling in my engine bay that's fro sure.

Top effort Rod, let us all know if you head to WSID - I've been to the drags there on a Wednesday night and you get a great mix of machinery - looking forward to the 'no bling beast' ripping up the track with all four spinning!

BTW - you can check your temp easily with a multimeter - i have $39 Jaycar one that does lots including multiple frequency ranges and a temp sensor that reads to 800 deg C, quickest way to check for faulty sensors and build a calibration table for your ecu.

Ed:fingersx:

 

[Zuffen]

Ed,

I'll let you know when it heads to Westsid. It will be a while as I have plenty to do to get it there.

It won't be smoking all 4 as the front driveline angles restrict it to less than 80kmh without vibrations. In 2wd it's fine.

I'm currently building some 5" and 9" rims for the excursion.

I'll test the sensor and see what gives.

I may try and move the sensor to the middle of the plenum and see if that helps.

 

[Turbo4L]

Hey Rod, have you got a dyno sheet you could post up, would love to compare it against our turbo motor.

 

[Zuffen]

Not yet.

Once it is all running well we'll one to post up.

 

[Zuffen]

The water leak is from the "O" ring on the heater pipe from the back of the waterpump. It had a damaged edge. My fault as I fitted it.

One problem I've noticed is the manifold is internally covered in an oily residue. The only oil that can enter the system is from the supercharger lubrication at the front of the charger. The PCV system isn't hooked up to the intake yet so it isn''t from there. There isn't any oil in the plenum before the charger.

I'll talk to Andrew and see what he says. At least it can be done with the charger in place.

 

[-Nemesis-]

How's this going now Rod?

 

[JustenGT8]

Probably still waiting on a response from Andrew ;-)

 

[Zuffen]

Justen is right! No response as yet.

Currently the airbox and ducting are being built.

Then I'll swap the original (very noisy) mufflers back in as the loss in performance was staggering with the new mufflers. I may buy a couple of supertrap disc adaptors to quieten it down when I need it.

Once the airbox is finished it's off to the tuner to see what it produces.

Still lots of little thing to do, such as a high pinion rear diff to straighten out the drive line and save a bit of power.

As with any modified vehicle it will never really be finished.

 

[JBrady]

Rod,

I missed what your muffler situation was. What did you have and what did you try? The rest of the system?

 

[rivmasta]

Hey Rod, kudos mate!

 

[Zuffen]

John,

I had 3" straight through "turbo" mufflers. They're back on it now.

We tried 3" tripple pass muflers but it ran like a dog. When changing them over I found the shop had fitted 2 1/2" units which would explain a lot of the loss of performance. More money down the drain.

I'm looking at fitting Super Trap disc converters to it after the resonators so I can quieten it down when I want and let it annoy the neighbours when I feel like it.

What do you think of the idea?

In reallity I've just about given up on it all. Sick of being stuffed around and not being able to drive it. The truck has been running for 4 months and still not tuned right.

Getting anyone to do work on it and do it right is near impossible and then you get charged stupid money for the (half done) work.

I'm considering a standard engine and just drive it. Although an LS3 is looking easier all round. 500hp easy and cheap as.