Finally running (sort of)!
- Thread starter Zuffen
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The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
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Bryan,
Watagans first, then Westsid.
Everytime I take it to Stockton it digs big holes. Too much power and not enough traction. Mud Terrains are good at flinging sand.
Watagans first, then Westsid.
Everytime I take it to Stockton it digs big holes. Too much power and not enough traction. Mud Terrains are good at flinging sand.
Sounds like too much air in the tyres hehehe... I normally spend most of the time on Stockton in RWD for fun, watching the underpowered 4WD's get stuck in 4WD. I normally run about 10psi in my 33's, floats on the sand with ease and the runner tips the scales at 2.3t now with me in it.
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Last time I was there the truck was 200kg lighter at 1,700kg and I ran 15lb.
Hopefully 10psi will work better.
Hopefully 10psi will work better.
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OK, update time.
I picked the car up from the dyno shop this afternoon.
No figures yet but a few things to sort out.
It's boosting to 22.5psi @ 6,000rpm.
I'm getting 72% throttle opening so a little reworking on the throttle linkage will give me a bit more flow which may give alittle more boost.
The battery voltage drops from 14.3v at idle to 12.5v at 6,000rpm. This throws out the settings on the Autronic so another one to investigate.
There's an intermitten coolant leak from the rear of the engine. I suspect the waterbridge or blocked off heater and t/b lines. Hopefully it's an easy fix.
Lastly the air temp sensor is reading up to 160degreees which is way high. The main concern is melting the epoxy in the sensor should it hit 180degrees. It looks like it gets heat soak but its at the rear of the manifold well clear of the runners etc.
Yavuz (the tuner) felt it could make 550 at the fly. He was talking KILOWATTS! That translates to 750FWHP. He advised me to change my tyres as mud tyres chew up horsepower and distort dyno readings.
How's it drive? Scary fast. I would say it's faster then my wife's SLK55 which will turn a 4.5 second 0-100kpmh, so for a big 4x4 it flies.
I'll do some more work and send it back and see what it gets.
I picked the car up from the dyno shop this afternoon.
No figures yet but a few things to sort out.
It's boosting to 22.5psi @ 6,000rpm.
I'm getting 72% throttle opening so a little reworking on the throttle linkage will give me a bit more flow which may give alittle more boost.
The battery voltage drops from 14.3v at idle to 12.5v at 6,000rpm. This throws out the settings on the Autronic so another one to investigate.
There's an intermitten coolant leak from the rear of the engine. I suspect the waterbridge or blocked off heater and t/b lines. Hopefully it's an easy fix.
Lastly the air temp sensor is reading up to 160degreees which is way high. The main concern is melting the epoxy in the sensor should it hit 180degrees. It looks like it gets heat soak but its at the rear of the manifold well clear of the runners etc.
Yavuz (the tuner) felt it could make 550 at the fly. He was talking KILOWATTS! That translates to 750FWHP. He advised me to change my tyres as mud tyres chew up horsepower and distort dyno readings.
How's it drive? Scary fast. I would say it's faster then my wife's SLK55 which will turn a 4.5 second 0-100kpmh, so for a big 4x4 it flies.
I'll do some more work and send it back and see what it gets.
XR8tt
Active Member
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I have had similar voltage issues with Haltech E11..
Seems low impedance injectors takes some driving, along with fuel pumps and thermo fans...
We found some residue voltage between body and motor..
Cured by extra earth cables added, battery is in boot [trunk] which seems to exaggerate any voltage issues.. 1000 CCA Deep cycle battery helped...
Seems low impedance injectors takes some driving, along with fuel pumps and thermo fans...
We found some residue voltage between body and motor..
Cured by extra earth cables added, battery is in boot [trunk] which seems to exaggerate any voltage issues.. 1000 CCA Deep cycle battery helped...
stevechumo
Active Member
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750 whp...Nice! Congrats! Hoping the leak isn't from the head gaskets.
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Bryan,
Like you my battery is down back as well.
I'd thought about running a smallish battery up front to drive the ECU and isolate it from things like the fuel pumps and fans/eveything else with diodes.
I'll need to look into a bit more.
The alt was tested just before christmas and it was given a perfect bill of health.
I don't expect the leak to be h/g's otherwise it would be dropping compression.
Out with the spanners!
Like you my battery is down back as well.
I'd thought about running a smallish battery up front to drive the ECU and isolate it from things like the fuel pumps and fans/eveything else with diodes.
I'll need to look into a bit more.
The alt was tested just before christmas and it was given a perfect bill of health.
I don't expect the leak to be h/g's otherwise it would be dropping compression.
Out with the spanners!
XR8tt
Active Member
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My ECU is connected to alternator..
The volt reading I assume would be with digital meter??
An analogue may show some sway / different reading as digital averages ..
I assume injectors are connected in sequential ?
The volt reading I assume would be with digital meter??
An analogue may show some sway / different reading as digital averages ..
I assume injectors are connected in sequential ?
JustenGT8
New Member
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Nice numbers Rod.
Air temps are a real worry? I don't get soak like that even on the track? My sensor is in the TB. Apart from the fact you don't actually know what your real intake temps are, temps that high will have the ECU pulling timing and maybe dumping fuel(?) which will be hurting power. Is the sensor calibrated correctly?...oh, and that was deg F i assume?
Air temps are a real worry? I don't get soak like that even on the track? My sensor is in the TB. Apart from the fact you don't actually know what your real intake temps are, temps that high will have the ECU pulling timing and maybe dumping fuel(?) which will be hurting power. Is the sensor calibrated correctly?...oh, and that was deg F i assume?
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Justen,
Sorry degrees C so worse than it looks.
I don't know why it would be happening as the sensor is at the top of the manifold around the the middle of the V so it's as far away from the runners as possible.
Could be a faulty sensor but to replace it is not worth thinking about as it's as about as accessesible as my appendix through my mouth! Actually I was thinking of the other way but that doesn't bear thinking about!
I doubt I will see the 750 or so as I have lots of things working against me. Big tyres (35" diameter), knobby tyres, steep driveline angles and the transfer case to eat up a little more of my horsepower.
Whatever it ends up with will be more than now which translates into a bigger smile.
Sorry degrees C so worse than it looks.
I don't know why it would be happening as the sensor is at the top of the manifold around the the middle of the V so it's as far away from the runners as possible.
Could be a faulty sensor but to replace it is not worth thinking about as it's as about as accessesible as my appendix through my mouth! Actually I was thinking of the other way but that doesn't bear thinking about!
I doubt I will see the 750 or so as I have lots of things working against me. Big tyres (35" diameter), knobby tyres, steep driveline angles and the transfer case to eat up a little more of my horsepower.
Whatever it ends up with will be more than now which translates into a bigger smile.
Lextreme II
Just call me "Lex"
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Nice work Rod,
It has been a long journey for all of us. Good to see projects get done. I need to get my behind together and get my done.
It has been a long journey for all of us. Good to see projects get done. I need to get my behind together and get my done.
JustenGT8
New Member
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Must be a faulty sensor Rod, or the calibration setup in the Autronic is wrong? No way it can be at those temps surely?
The big worry is how it is effecting the tune...I.T. being a major variable used for fuelling and ign adv? What does your tuner say?...Yavuz has a very good reputation
The big worry is how it is effecting the tune...I.T. being a major variable used for fuelling and ign adv? What does your tuner say?...Yavuz has a very good reputation
XR8tt
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IMO..It won't be any where near those temps..
It wouldn't be making that power if it was..
Yavuz is he Unigroup ??
It wouldn't be making that power if it was..
Yavuz is he Unigroup ??
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Yavuz is the Unigroup guru. Certainly knows his stuff.
If he sets the chart for high intake temps and sets the map correctly all should be good.
I suspect the sensor is faulty.
Trouble is to access it is a marathon job.
It may be easier to remove the whole manifold as this would give me access to the temp sensor and access to the area of the leak.
Just not sure if I can get the mani off without removing the rear water bridge which is inaccessible under the plenum for the supercharger.
GRRR. Why did I set the engine so far back?
If he sets the chart for high intake temps and sets the map correctly all should be good.
I suspect the sensor is faulty.
Trouble is to access it is a marathon job.
It may be easier to remove the whole manifold as this would give me access to the temp sensor and access to the area of the leak.
Just not sure if I can get the mani off without removing the rear water bridge which is inaccessible under the plenum for the supercharger.
GRRR. Why did I set the engine so far back?
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XR8tt
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Aha would be easier to drill and tap another sensor ???
stevechumo
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Removing the rear water bridge is a pain, espcially in the SC400 with the wiring harness that blocks the access. Hopefully there's enough room in your engine bay, and the leak is just the heater hose if you have it connected.
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Nice numbers Rod!
I remember our little dialogue about that sensor, and I was thinking at the time "I hope he never has to get to it!" Then when I put all of mine on the rear of the manifold for easy access (and it looked like cr*p) I began to think, "hmmm, Rod had the right idea, and I'll probably never need access to all these sensors anyway!"
For removal, I've found it's easier to pull the whole manifold & SC off as a unit, rather than disassembling a piece at a time on the motor. Takes 20 minutes, instead of an hour or so that way.
I remember our little dialogue about that sensor, and I was thinking at the time "I hope he never has to get to it!" Then when I put all of mine on the rear of the manifold for easy access (and it looked like cr*p) I began to think, "hmmm, Rod had the right idea, and I'll probably never need access to all these sensors anyway!"
For removal, I've found it's easier to pull the whole manifold & SC off as a unit, rather than disassembling a piece at a time on the motor. Takes 20 minutes, instead of an hour or so that way.
