Finally Flywheel info

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toy4whatever

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40
Location
Buckeye,AZ
So after browsing on here for hours at a time for the past few months I've come to realize that when most people get their "custom flywheel" they never seem to post any tech or any pics of the finished product. Well I'm not going to do that.

I am building a 1990 xtra cab pickup. I am using a stock R-150F transmission with dual transfer cases. I have been trying to find info on which flywheel to use and of course keeping the cost as low as possible. http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11009

So I have decided to use a stock V6(3vze) flywheel. This flywheel is heavier than the MR2 flywheel and I can use a Marlin Crawler 2100lb clutch kit. You can usually find these at a salvage yard or CL for under $30. I paid $15 for mine. If it turns out that you get a bad flywheel don't worry. You can use it as a core and get one from a parts store(checkers, autozone) from $60-$70. First thing was test fitting and just getting a general idea of what I need to do so this would fit. I decided to drill the 8 mounting holes out with a 1/2" bit. Two reasons I did this; 1) the flywheel is already centered on the crank, 2) when you drill the holes out to 1/2" the bolt will still be to the outside of the hole and the flywheel can not move. Next I did a few test fits and you will need to take a file to a few holes so the bolts do in easily.
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The next problem is getting the ring gear to line up with the starter. After looking at it I decided to move the ring gear 1/4" out from its original position. It is now flush with the outside of the flywheel.
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This is where I'm at right now. The plan is to weld the ring gear in its current location and have the flywheel rebalanced. Then if necessary I will have the mounting surface milled down to put the ring gear in the correct location. I will update this soon. I plan to have this truck going by May so keep watching.
 
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I decided to drill the 8 mounting holes out with a 1/2" bit. Two reasons I did this; 1) the flywheel is already centered on the crank, 2) when you drill the holes out to 1/2" the bolt will still be to the outside of the hole and the flywheel can not move.

Why are you drilling out those holes to 1/2"? The bolt holes in the crank are only M10x1.25. Plus, with just a drill and a bit, how do you know you've achieved an accurate and precise bolt circle? The last thing you want is a potentially loose fitting flywheel; that's a real danger to you and your passenger. It's true the flywheel is spigot centered, but there's nothing to prevent it from moving axially if the holes are too large.

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but you really ought to consider, at minimum, having the old holes welded up, then take it to a machine shop and have the holes centered and rebored in the correct size (probably no larger than 10.16 or 10.18mm) and the correct PCD.

One would never consider using rims on a car that didn't have the right holes, and a flywheel is far more critical than rims in terms of safety.
 
For the cost of modifying an old cast flywheel why dont people just buy a nice billet made one.There are plenty available and the safety factor of not having one explode just dont see the sense in using cast flywheels.Here is a photo of my setup
 

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Have you ever seen a driver's footwell turned into a collandar that looks like someone has been shredding tomatoes?

Not a pretty sight and the driver suddenly decided saving a few dollars wasn't worth the pain and loss of income whilst in hostpital.

Before race cars ran scattershields in the late '60's it was quite a common sight.

Long story short "your crazy if you do it"

If it was safe and as simple as you say there wouldn't be an aftermarket for flywheels and we would all have done it already.
 
Where are these mythical flywheels that won't cost me an arm and a leg? Considering my engine only cost me $300 usd I find it hard to spend a lot more for a flywheel. How much do you think this is going to end up costing you?
 
So now everyone speaks up on getting a low cost flywheel. You tell me where I can get a heavy flywheel and not a billet light weight one for less than $500 and I will buy it. No one on this site has posted a price or web site or anything on this. Please tell me!

OH, and made in america so it doesnt cost me another $100 for shipping.
 


$435 + $$$$ shipping = more than $500
I should come in at less than $100 for this flywheel. Find a cast flywheel, drill it out to 1/2" and tell me what you find. Its no different than elongating the hole, which has been done by others. The bolts still set to the outside and the flywheel will not move. I said this in my first post. If I thought it was going to move I would not use it. Even with all the bolts in place and loose you cannot move the flywheel. I even tried to pry it a little.
 
You dont know how much shipping is mate. I just shipped a clutch and flywheel over to the US and it was around USD100. So no, it wont be more than USD500. Either way, no one here cares about a half ass solution that people were talking about 10 years ago with all sorts of "close" flywheels like 3S etc. What you will see is an unbalanced $100 flywheel that will likely slice your legs off at 6,000rpm. Its not about if its going to move its about the balance at extremely high rpm. Modifying cars isnt cheap, if you dont have the budget to do it safely maybe pick a cheaper hobby next time.
 
You dont know how much shipping is mate. I just shipped a clutch and flywheel over to the US and it was around USD100. So no, it wont be more than USD500. Either way, no one here cares about a half ass solution that people were talking about 10 years ago with all sorts of "close" flywheels like 3S etc. What you will see is an unbalanced $100 flywheel that will likely slice your legs off at 6,000rpm. Its not about if its going to move its about the balance at extremely high rpm. Modifying cars isnt cheap, if you dont have the budget to do it safely maybe pick a cheaper hobby next time.

Go back and re-read my first post. I am getting the flywheel balanced after I weld the ring gear on. Last time I checked $435+$100=$535.
 
Re-read my post. I sent a flywheel AND clutch for $100. Last time I checked, less weight means it costs less to ship. Anyway good luck with your project, I hope you never sell it.
 
Don't plan on selling it. Good thing, right? I already know what shipping is going to be for just a flywheel from your area. I have already contacted Phil and got quotes from him. Tell you what. Send me a flywheel and we will know what the cost will be.
 
Yup I would feel sorry for the guy that brought it and lost his legs because of you desire to save a few hundred dollars. Not sure why I need to send you a flywheel since you already contacted some guy and got quotes, but good luck with your build.
 
I have a steel flywheel in the shed you can have for US$200 + shipping, only done 1,500 km complete with ring gear and designed to take a 9 1/2"clutch.
PM me if you are interested and I can get a price on shipping.

The flywheel should fit onto the crank spigot whether it is steel or cast.

Any bolt clearance will possibly cause a cast flywheel to move radially under sharp impact loads (4x4ing) and possibly cause the bolt holes to crack out.
 
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Looks like US$500.00 is the value of a pair of legs!

My flywheel was custom made for my application and cost me AU$600.00 which I think is cheap insurance for my old skinny legs.

How much would a new gearbox, flywheel, clutch and body repairs cost when the flywheel lets go.

I also have a redrilled flywheel for my car in my scrap steel heap.
 
Looks like US$500.00 is the value of a pair of legs!

My flywheel was custom made for my application and cost me AU$600.00 which I think is cheap insurance for my old skinny legs.

How much would a new gearbox, flywheel, clutch and body repairs cost when the flywheel lets go.

I also have a redrilled flywheel for my car in my scrap steel heap.

OH no you have a modified flywheel. You legs are gone for sure.
At least thats what 4000gt thinks.

Whats the difference between yours and mine? Why is mine going to brake apart? Can you show me or know first hand that this has happened to a stock engine and not a race/drag vehicle with a highly modified engine?
 


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