1UZ-FE Transplant into 91 Hilux Surf

[Muzza_NZ]

Matt,
FYI, I'm running twin 10" Davies Craig fans on the front of the radiator. I did have the option of a 14" pull one instead, which in hindsight may have been better, but temps have never been a problem so I guess its ok - max temp the radiator has ever got to is ~93 deg C, on a 30 degree day, giving it the message on some big hills with about 300kg in the tray & 3 people in the cabin.

Muzz

 

[LOWBOY NZ]

Hey Mudman,

Yup the factory radiator is running at max just with city driving. I ran twin 10" davis craig fans on my last ute and they worked really well so im using them on my second hilux. Im just looking into radiators for my next ute to see what i can find.

Did you think about running the V6 Surf (VZN130) radiator?? Also one of the diesel hilux's has a factory 3 core radiator that bolts in. Either way nice work.

 

[Clown Boy]

Mudman - on the front and rear driveshafts.

This may be a silly question but with the gearbox moving, I assume you had to lengthen the driveshaft to the rear and shorten the front?

 

[-Nemesis-]

Hey Mudman,

Yup the factory radiator is running at max just with city driving. I ran twin 10" davis craig fans on my last ute and they worked really well so im using them on my second hilux. Im just looking into radiators for my next ute to see what i can find.

Did you think about running the V6 Surf (VZN130) radiator?? Also one of the diesel hilux's has a factory 3 core radiator that bolts in. Either way nice work.

The V6 4Runner has a smaller two core radiator. Toyota use bigger radiators for their diesels than petrol. The equivalent aged diesel 4Runners and Hilux's have smaller/weaker gearboxes and rear diffs, but bigger radiators :wtf:

 

[Mudman]

Mudman - on the front and rear driveshafts.

This may be a silly question but with the gearbox moving, I assume you had to lengthen the driveshaft to the rear and shorten the front?

Hi Clown Boy,

I had the rear drive shaft lengthened by 32mm and the front one shortened by the same amount.
(The gearbox/transfer case was shifted foward 32mm from the factory position to get enough clearance between the engine & firewall).

I may have been able to keep the rear driveshaft at the standard length and just bolt a spacer between the driveshaft & diff flanges but thought that having it lengthened would be a far better option.
The front driveshaft didn't have enough movement in the spline to fit between the front diff & transfer case so it had to be shortened.

 

[Mudman]

Good on ya mudman, that's almost identical to the radiator I put in my hilux.

How's the clearance between the filler cap and the bonnet, or does the body lift give you loads of space?

Muzz

Hi Muzz,

I've got about 10mm clearance between the bonnet & the radiator cap and about 50mm between the bottom of the radiator & the chassis.

I needed about 30mm below the radiator for the lower radiator mounts which left me with 20mm clearance between the mounts & chassis, so there's not a huge amount of clearance.

If I didn't have the 2" body lift, the radiator would only just fit, but would have to be mounted differently.

I'll post some pics when I get home from work.

 

[Mudman]

Nice work Mudman.

What fan(s) are you planning on running?

Cheers
Matt.

Hi Matt,

Im using the factory fan for the airconditioning and a second factory fan which I mounted next to the original one.

I haven't connected them to a thermal switch yet, but will when I get some time. I'm just using a temproary switch on the dash.

I can drive all day and don't need to use the fans. The radiator manages to keep it cool on it's own.

 

[Mudman]

I didn't think there was anything strong enough at the front of the hilux to mount the radiator to at the base, so I made some mounting plates out of 3mm thick steel with 8mm threaded holes to bolt the mounts to, and welded them to the lower front crossmember on the hilux body.



Here's a pic of the mounting plates welded in place with the mounts bolted on.

 

[Mudman]

And some more....




The fan on the left is the factory fan for the air conditioning.
I thought that two of these fans should be enough to help keep this beast cool enough, so I bought another one from the wreckers and modified the mounts so it would fit next to the original one.
There is enough space between the fans & the radiator for the air conditioning compensator which I'll put back in at a later stage.

 

[Mudman]

My next mission was to find some suitable radiator hoses.
I already had part of the factory lower radiator hose which consisted of a 90 deg. bend so I just cut it down to the right length and used it for the top hose. It didn't take long to find something suitable for the lower hose. I ended up using a top hose for a XB Ford Falcon 5.8ltr V8 which I bought brand new from Supercheap for $15.00 (NZ). It had the perfect bends to clear the power steering pulley & wrap neatly around the radiator tank and down to the inlet. I had to add an extension to the end so it would reach the radiator inlet though.
And for the heater hose, I used a combination of the original 1UZ hose and one I found with a 180 deg. bend and joined them together. For the return heater hose, I used one that was for a Holden HQ Statesman which cost around $12.00. This hose fitted without any modifications at all. You would almost think that it was made for it.

 

[LOWBOY NZ]

Damn i wish whakatane supercheap stocked hoses that shape!!! Nice radiator though. I have gone for a 4 core landcruiser radiator with my standard 2WD top and bottom tanks which mounts in the same position as factory......keeps me cool as

 

[Mudman]

Yeah, It makes life a lot easier when you can find the right parts straight off the shelf.
I still have the part numbers if anyone wants to order some.

 

[Mudman]

Now that I had the cooling sorted out, it was time to do something about the oil filter & sender. I had to remove the oil filter to get the engine sitting between the chassis rails and then found that there wasn't enough room to screw it back on. I think smaller filters are available but there would be a really good chance it would knock against the chassis - even in light driving conditions and could eventially poke a hole in it. Besides, I didn't want to go any smaller because the smaller the surface area of the filter is, the more restrictive the flow. I already thought the original factory filter was small enough as it was.
So my only option was to go with a remote oil filter which I mounted to the inner guard toward the front. It wasn't a very cheap option, but I thought it was the only way to prevent any problems later on.

 

[Mudman]

It's really easy to get to the oil filter to change it when the time comes, and it shouldn't spill oil everywhere when I do need to change it.

 

[Mudman]

I used the oil pressure sender from the original 2L-T diesel engine but had to mount it remotely because the engine mount was in the way. I made a mounting plate from 3mm thick steel and bolted it to the rear airconditioning pump mount. I used brass fittings & copper hose for the plumbing. It worked really well and was very easy & cheap to do.

 

[Mattmannz]

Nice work mate.

Matt

 

[rest16jr]

hi im looking at doing this conversion in a 1993 ln130 surf i was just curious as im on a limited time frame and even more limited financial constraints with the mounting blocks for the emgine did they bolt onto the old ones and will the 1uz fit the factory auto thanks

 

[cebby]

hi im looking at doing this conversion in a 1993 ln130 surf i was just curious as im on a limited time frame and even more limited financial constraints with the mounting blocks for the emgine did they bolt onto the old ones and will the 1uz fit the factory auto thanks

The 1UZ mounts won't bolt up. You need to fabricate something.

 

[cebby]

Mudman - what oil filter relo kit did you use? Was it the Ford 5.0 kit? (I've read that one will work)

 

[LOWBOY NZ]

hi im looking at doing this conversion in a 1993 ln130 surf i was just curious as im on a limited time frame and even more limited financial constraints with the mounting blocks for the emgine did they bolt onto the old ones and will the 1uz fit the factory auto thanks

Your best bet is to find someone who has done the conversion and will supply you with a pattern for the engine mounts. It took me about 2 hours from start to finish to fabricate my 1st set of mounts so its not hard.

Adapting the gearbox....No it wont bolt up....I get asked this alot...I generally go to manual cause i hate auto's and that takes me around 12 hours just cruising to do that. It costs about $1000 to do a good manual conversion with a good clutch, flywheel and thrust bearing set up.