Wiring auto to wolf ECU

[redsx]

I know wiring autos to aftermarket ECU isn’t a common thing and not many have any experience with these as yet, but I have a couple of questions someone might be able to shed some light on.
I worked out the Pinouts from a map I managed to find and it has an input/ output Setup for an OD wire, which I presumed would just go to the overdrive switch and to ground As there is already a wire to control the t/c lockup solenoid. But someone has thrown me, in that it possibly needs power and go through a relay, unfortunately there is no wiring diagram for the wolf Tuner series and no documentation for setting up and wiring the auto box.
my second question is the speed sensor, it’s an early crown three wire which has power, earth and vss, I get that the speed signal goes to the speed input but does the sensor power and earth have to go through the ecu, Or can they just be supplied 12v and run to a ground? Also does anyone know how to setup the speed sensor configuration on a wolf Tuner series or V550 as the setting I have are for a Soarer and the crown is different and has 20 pulses.
and lastly do the ECU ground wires have to go to the engine block or can they be run to a main earthing block or back to the battery?
Any help really appreciate.

 

[ivan129]

I know wiring autos to aftermarket ECU isn’t a common thing and not many have any experience with these as yet, but I have a couple of questions someone might be able to shed some light on.
I worked out the Pinouts from a map I managed to find and it has an input/ output Setup for an OD wire, which I presumed would just go to the overdrive switch and to ground As there is already a wire to control the t/c lockup solenoid. But someone has thrown me, in that it possibly needs power and go through a relay, unfortunately there is no wiring diagram for the wolf Tuner series and no documentation for setting up and wiring the auto box.
my second question is the speed sensor, it’s an early crown three wire which has power, earth and vss, I get that the speed signal goes to the speed input but does the sensor power and earth have to go through the ecu, Or can they just be supplied 12v and run to a ground? Also does anyone know how to setup the speed sensor configuration on a wolf Tuner series or V550 as the setting I have are for a Soarer and the crown is different and has 20 pulses.
and lastly do the ECU ground wires have to go to the engine block or can they be run to a main earthing block or back to the battery?
Any help really appreciate.

I hear wolf ems is one of many business that have gone into hybination while the the dickhead premier kills off everything in the state. You need to use the V550 wiring diagram, its the same for the tuner. I run a V550, 1UZ and A431E. I can help you with wiring the auto but you will struggle to get the mapping right to shift the trans. Problem is the mapping provided by wolf ems to make the auto shift is complex and flakey. I now use my own controller (Arduino based) with tiptronic and auto shifting using speed output from VSS. Wiring your VSS should be straight forward. Drop me a PM if you need some help.

 

[tasmotorsport]

hi ivan 129
i am trying to wire a spirtronics to a a431e have you got the information for the gearbox outputs as thats the only thing i cantt seem to find
best regards Tasmotorsport

 

[ivan129]

hi ivan 129
i am trying to wire a spirtronics to a a431e have you got the information for the gearbox outputs as thats the only thing i cantt seem to find
best regards Tasmotorsport

Don't know anything about the spitronics. Spreadies below is what I used to connect the A341A to a Wolf V550. Connector info maybe of help.

 

[redsx]

hi ivan 129
i am trying to wire a spirtronics to a a431e have you got the information for the gearbox outputs as thats the only thing i cantt seem to find
best regards Tasmotorsport

Hi thanks for the help, To fill you in on the setup, the motor is supercharged, and uses 3uz coils and sequential injection.
I managed to get the pinouts used from their maps and had them confirmed by Robbie but any more info than that was non existent.
Thats going to be fun if the mapping for the box is flaky, so definitely need a good tuner then. I was in two minds as to using the original crown ECT to run the box but haven’t seen any info on doing that With an aftermarket ecu and most have said use a later ecu As it better at controlling the box.
Anyway the gearbox is Wired up as follows
pin Pin name
B3. Aux LS1 SECOND GEAR
B4. Aux LS2 SPEED SENSOR VSS
B5. Aux LS3 LINE CONTROL
B6 Aux LS4 LOCKUP T/C SLU-
B7. Aux LS5 LOW GEAR SLN-
B10. Aux LS6 REV GEAR
B11. Aux LS7 OVERDRIVE
B14 to B17 Is used by a GM Idle stepper which I will have to change settings from toyota
B18 Aux HL5 Sol 1
B19. Aux HL6 Sol 2

so as I was saying the overdrive wire I guess goes to the overdrive button and to ground?
and the speed sensor, not sure if the sensor ground and power has to go through the ecu Though not sure where you would connect them.
The two ECU earths say connect to the motor but not sure why that would have to be the case as I have earthing blocks through out the car as it’s fibreglass and are all linked to the battery and motor.
so any help or direction is appreciate.
Cheers
Russ

 

[ivan129]

I believe the tuner is just a rebranded V550 in a red box. It looks like they just updated the internal software and UI. I assume because some chips went eol. Not sure weather your confused or whether you have a different box config. Mine has 4 solenoids. S1 & 2 for shifting gears, S3 for TC LUP, S4 for LP. Overdrive is 4th gear, S1 & S2 are not operated. I assume you have the table for operating the solenoids to shift gears, again...4th = Overdrive = both solenoids released. So there shouldn't be a need to connect anything to the ECU for OD. Don't argue with the guru. Robbie knows his stuff. Connect the gnds DIRECTLY to the engine block!!!! Your sensors are on the engine not down the back of the car. Voltage drops and ground loops will give you greif. GM IAC = Toyota IAC same config. You will have lots of fun getting it to go pop (fire) I bet. Everyone has trouble with the trigger, skip etc. Good luck.

 

[redsx]

I believe the tuner is just a rebranded V550 in a red box. It looks like they just updated the internal software and UI. I assume because some chips went eol. Not sure weather your confused or whether you have a different box config. Mine has 4 solenoids. S1 & 2 for shifting gears, S3 for TC LUP, S4 for LP. Overdrive is 4th gear, S1 & S2 are not operated. I assume you have the table for operating the solenoids to shift gears, again...4th = Overdrive = both solenoids released. So there shouldn't be a need to connect anything to the ECU for OD. Don't argue with the guru. Robbie knows his stuff. Connect the gnds DIRECTLY to the engine block!!!! Your sensors are on the engine not down the back of the car. Voltage drops and ground loops will give you greif. GM IAC = Toyota IAC same config. You will have lots of fun getting it to go pop (fire) I bet. Everyone has trouble with the trigger, skip etc. Good luck.

It’s basically the same with a few updates, but in a black box not the red of the V550. The configuration software isn’t as good as the previous version And feels unfinished, and the maps are in a different format which only Robbie could convert and still not sure if wide band can be setup on these as there was issues on the earlier V500/ 550 series where it just didn’t work So I am running the 1 wire O2 sensors that have shields to ground and haven’t run them back to the O2 grounds on the ecu.
The auto configuration was just what I figured out from serval different maps they had for the auto and confirmed the pinouts configuration with Robbie and eventually supplied a converted map as you can’t copy and paste between different programs.
Yes the auto has the same four solenoids, 1 and two shift the gears, then there is the line Pressure control and the torque converter lockup. The overdrive gear is programmed to select via software controlling the Solenoid valves from information from the Speed sensor and can be turned on or off by the O/D button and only operates in Drive. Yes all the tables are there for shifts etc. but very rudimentary compared to a factory setup.
I can only presume that the O/D wire goes to the O/D button to turn overdrive off as it does in the factory setup with the button in the shifter which just creates a ground.
maybe some one can tell me what is required for the O/D as I don’t have a wiring diagram for the factory O/D and I think it goes through the ABS and cruise control ECU much like the speed sensor so not sure if there is a powered relay required. I am guessing you also have the 2 wire speed sensor not the three wire that is in the Crown which has power connected as well, and has 20 pulses so is different to the soarer speed sensor. So that will be my next problem to solve in the configuration tables. I will just get power for the speedo from the main relay and connect it to ground And hope for the best, may have to cut a few teeth off the wheel to get it to 4 pulses.
The setup for the 1uzfe auto from wolf is built around a plug-in adapter so you can just replace the factory ECU in a Soarer which wasn’t suitable for mine as I have the separate ECT for the box plus I wasn’t running batch fire injection and twin distributors, so Robbie sent me a wire in kit Unfortunately he wasn’t keen to supply the information to wire the auto. I can only presume due to the propriety nature of his adapter kit.
so it may be plan B and wire up a factory ECU to run the auto If all else fails.

 

[redsx]

This is the automatic transmission wiring diagram for a 1990 LS400 if that is of any help to anyone.

 

[ivan129]

It’s basically the same with a few updates, but in a black box not the red of the V550. The configuration software isn’t as good as the previous version And feels unfinished, and the maps are in a different format which only Robbie could convert and still not sure if wide band can be setup on these as there was issues on the earlier V500/ 550 series where it just didn’t work So I am running the 1 wire O2 sensors that have shields to ground and haven’t run them back to the O2 grounds on the ecu.
The auto configuration was just what I figured out from serval different maps they had for the auto and confirmed the pinouts configuration with Robbie and eventually supplied a converted map as you can’t copy and paste between different programs.
Yes the auto has the same four solenoids, 1 and two shift the gears, then there is the line Pressure control and the torque converter lockup. The overdrive gear is programmed to select via software controlling the Solenoid valves from information from the Speed sensor and can be turned on or off by the O/D button and only operates in Drive. Yes all the tables are there for shifts etc. but very rudimentary compared to a factory setup.
I can only presume that the O/D wire goes to the O/D button to turn overdrive off as it does in the factory setup with the button in the shifter which just creates a ground.
maybe some one can tell me what is required for the O/D as I don’t have a wiring diagram for the factory O/D and I think it goes through the ABS and cruise control ECU much like the speed sensor so not sure if there is a powered relay required. I am guessing you also have the 2 wire speed sensor not the three wire that is in the Crown which has power connected as well, and has 20 pulses so is different to the soarer speed sensor. So that will be my next problem to solve in the configuration tables. I will just get power for the speedo from the main relay and connect it to ground And hope for the best, may have to cut a few teeth off the wheel to get it to 4 pulses.
The setup for the 1uzfe auto from wolf is built around a plug-in adapter so you can just replace the factory ECU in a Soarer which wasn’t suitable for mine as I have the separate ECT for the box plus I wasn’t running batch fire injection and twin distributors, so Robbie sent me a wire in kit Unfortunately he wasn’t keen to supply the information to wire the auto. I can only presume due to the propriety nature of his adapter kit.
so it may be plan B and wire up a factory ECU to run the auto If all else fails.

Yes, your right, my V550 is red. I've only played with a couple of Tuners, the most recent a few months ago, helped a friend fit one to a blown windsor V8. From what I've seen of the tuner software, I do prefer the V550 environment. My O2 does work on the V550 (have 2 but only use one) however you have to provide your own heater controller and just use the 0 - 5V op for the wolf. Using an LM1 setup for that , gives the opportunity to log using the LM1 as well. The wolf self tune has never been much of a success so don't bank on it saving a heap of time tuning.
If you have the engine running, you are half way there. If you haven't and haven't played with one before then you may find it a challenge to understand the logic behind setting up the ignition trigger and sequencing.
I gave up on using the wolf to control my trans. Just couldn't get it to work right so now use my own. I mainly use tiptronic from buttons on my steering wheel but it does also have auto shifting (a little clunky, not as nice as an OEM jobby but works). The trany will happily run as a manual box without any control over the solenoids if you change gears using the shifter. Yes using the Toyota 2 wire inductive pickups. They put out a sort of saw tooth waveform that grows in amplitude with the increase in speed. Your 3 wire sensor will put out a square pulse relative to the pullup voltage its connected to in the ecu vss input (should be 5V) The pulse rate and divider can be tweaked in the vss table. Robbie is a brilliant guy, just too busy at times to get back to his customers.

 

[ivan129]

Attached are some pics of what the auto controller looks like from the drivers perspective. Had to hack them down to get them down in size to bring them under 1Mb in size to upload. LCD display in center consul is driven by the transmission controller, displays the position of the shift, whether its in auto or manual (Tiptronic) mode and displays pulses per sec. 7 segment display in dash is also driven from the TC and displays the current gear. If the dot is illuminated the converter is locked up. Buttons on the steering wheel are a thumb length for hand position on wheel, Reds are up shift, yellows are down shift. Green is 150 shot and black is line lock. Push button on the side of the shift is for sports mode when in auto mode. Raises the shift points by about 20 - 25%. Also picture of under the hood.

 

[redsx]

Cool setup, very nice, love the LCD display, but not going to suit the style of an 80 year old car, with a wire spoke steering wheel and small tin dash Haha. I do want the auto running as an auto for health reasons. Unfortunately haven’t tried to get the engine running just getting to that stage now, the trouble with a hotrod everything has to be fabricated Right back to the fuel tank, not much factory stuff left, and it just takes so much time and money, worse when you are so remote, but on the plus side I have a few maps that people have run that would be close but all come from soarers with an adapter kit, and most of the supercharged guys have Hiluxes and don’t run autos. The last two wires I have to wire up aren’t critical to getting the motor running but are needEd to operate the auto. So I just need to find out if the O/D wire needs grounding through a button to engage it or if it needs power, in this case it looks like it comes through the O/D dash light from the ignition switch. Was supposed to be heading back to NZ so wanted it running to drive on board and could have left it to Gloverman to sort when it got there, but who knows what’s going to happen at this stage. So will plod along.

 

[361UZ]

Hi Russ.
Re the O/D switch: The switch on the gear lever does switch the OD signal from pin 20 of the bigger plug on the ECT to ground. There is a direct wire from the ECT plug to the connector at the shifter (Black/red). But it operates "backwards" in that switched to ground is OD off. OD ON is open. I read elsewhere that if the ECT is left unplugged, and the gear lever is in drive, it will try to start off in OD. That makes sense now.
The speed sensor (for the gearbox, ECT and cruize control) is the inductive pickup one. That's the inner or most forward of the two sensors. It bolts to the transmission extension housing. (The other sensor is the one that's mounted by a knurled nut and is for the speedo, and that is a hall effect device).
Wires are: dark green is ground, light green is plus volts and the red is the output. As Ivan said there's pull-up resistor in the ABS/ESC controller that sets the plus volts (on mine its about +8Volts) and the sensor pulls it down to zero. So you have a +8Volt level with low going with the pulses.
Dont forget the ABS/ESC controller then divides that by 8 and sends that to the gearbox, and also divided by 32 to go to the cruise control ("AD" = Auto-drive). I made up a box to do that so I could eliminate the ABS/ESC controller.
Hope that made sense...
I hear ya about making stuff for a hot rod! My temporary fuel tank is a converted 1 gallon mower fuel tin with a bosch injection pump in it.
Any chance of pictures? You still using the 39 (or '40?) sloper body?

 

[redsx]

Hi Russ.
Re the O/D switch: The switch on the gear lever does switch the OD signal from pin 20 of the bigger plug on the ECT to ground. There is a direct wire from the ECT plug to the connector at the shifter (Black/red). But it operates "backwards" in that switched to ground is OD off. OD ON is open. I read elsewhere that if the ECT is left unplugged, and the gear lever is in drive, it will try to start off in OD. That makes sense now.
The speed sensor (for the gearbox, ECT and cruize control) is the inductive pickup one. That's the inner or most forward of the two sensors. It bolts to the transmission extension housing. (The other sensor is the one that's mounted by a knurled nut and is for the speedo, and that is a hall effect device).
Wires are: dark green is ground, light green is plus volts and the red is the output. As Ivan said there's pull-up resistor in the ABS/ESC controller that sets the plus volts (on mine its about +8Volts) and the sensor pulls it down to zero. So you have a +8Volt level with low going with the pulses.
Dont forget the ABS/ESC controller then divides that by 8 and sends that to the gearbox, and also divided by 32 to go to the cruise control ("AD" = Auto-drive). I made up a box to do that so I could eliminate the ABS/ESC controller.
Hope that made sense...
I hear ya about making stuff for a hot rod! My temporary fuel tank is a converted 1 gallon mower fuel tin with a bosch injection pump in it.
Any chance of pictures? You still using the 39 (or '40?) sloper body?

 

[redsx]

The 40 sloper is gone and I am just doing the 40 roadster. I had all the wiring sorted in the old setup but then moved to a wolf ecu which strips out alot of the stuff that Toyota uses. Probably easier to ring you and explain what I am trying to do Not using the Toyota shifter have a lokar and a button on the dash.
Some pics of where the car is at since you last saw it.

 

[redsx]

I thought I would have to run the O/D like this through a relay. On the Toyota there is a battery power connection coming through the O/D off dash light to the button and is to ground when off or to the computer when button is pushed. using the rear Hall effect sensor just running 12v when ignition is on, but it is 20 pulses, not 4 which is converted by the dash to the ecu on the Toyota, the ecu should be able to accept it if I can figure out what the setting are it requires. I just realise you may have change your number since we last talked.

 

[361UZ]

Hi Russ.
Not sure of the wiring of the OD off light. I do know that the ECT (standard crown) controls the light because it can flash it for ECT error codes.
On my Crown the hall effect sensor (rear one held in by the knurled nut) wiring goes to the speedo. If I remove it from the gearbox and spin the shaft, the speedo reads speed. Chucking it in a drill results in more speed... Dont know how many pulses per rev.
The other sensor (inductive, bolted in). is the one that drives the gearbox and cruise control. It was wired directly to the ABD/ESC controller, as I said above. I have traced all the wires out, end to end. I used the engine to spin the gearbox output shaft and put the CRO on the outputs. So I cant tell (again) how many pulses of that one either. Its a stream. But it is divided by eight and 32. The divide by eight goes to the ECT. The divide by 32 is for the cruise control. You/I could work it out because waveform going to the cruise controller is 2 pulses per wheel revolution and its an even mark/space ratio square wave. That's 1 wheel turning, one stationary so the diff has a say as well. IE, Ignition on, engine stopped. CRO on the divided sensor output to the cruise control. Rotating the road wheel, the voltage on the CRO is high for 90 degrees (of the wheel) and low for 90 degrees.
When I built the circuit to replace the ABS/ESC controller, I had the inductive sensor mounted in a jig on the bench and made up a trigger wheel out of a metal disc with 4 bolts evenly spaced around the rim. Chucked that in a drill mounted close to the sensor. That generated my test pulses.
It all works fine with the car on blocks. The gearbox changes gears at about the right speed considering there's no load. I have 2 LEDS wired up to the gearbox solenoids, so I know what gear its in. And no error codes, which I 'think' will result if either sensor has failed.
Re calling me, my number has never changed. If you tried to call me earlier tonite (a number ending in 1561?) I didn't answer as I am getting a lot of prank calls. I dont answer unless I know the number. But you can leave a message.
Jeff

 

[361UZ]

Sorry, forgot! Nice looking roadster mate! Engine looks nice in there.
See what nice weather can let you do?

 

[ivan129]

The 40 sloper is gone and I am just doing the 40 roadster. I had all the wiring sorted in the old setup but then moved to a wolf ecu which strips out alot of the stuff that Toyota uses. Probably easier to ring you and explain what I am trying to do Not using the Toyota shifter have a lokar and a button on the dash.
Some pics of where the car is at since you last saw it.

Very nice machine Russ

 

[361UZ]

Hi again Russ. Not sure if I answered your question... What gearbox controller are you using?
The overdrive solenoid in the gearbox has a 12volt feed from ignition. Same as the shift "feel" solenoid (line pressure). The ECT grounds the solenoid for lockup.
The 2 shift solenoids, (1 nd 2) are grounded inside the gearbox, so the ECT gives the +12V depending on what gear it wants.
Solenoid 1 only, is first.
1 and 2 on, is second.
2 only is 3rd.
Both off is overdrive.
Solenoid 3 is lockup (grounded to energise) and solenoid 4 is to lower line pressure during shifting to soften shifts. (again, ground is ON).
Jeff

 

[redsx]

Hi Jeff, yes the number called is mine. The wolf ecu controls the auto box as well as the engine which is part of the reason I used the wolf.
I understand the operation of the solenoids and how the box is set up, but I have one wire which has thrown me. It's B1 Aux LS7.
It's set up as O/D which I presume would be the button to turn overdrive off as everything else is connected. I guess what I am trying to figure out if it should have power on this line, in the Toyota diagram in a previous post above, it gets power through the line via the Ign1, gauge fuse,through the dash O/D light and then to O/D line between ECU and off Button, or whether it should run through a relay, or if it just needs to be grounded via a switch? this is the configuration page for the aux LS7.

pin out configuration



The speedo is going to be ECU configuration as the crown output is different to the soarer so not sure how it works out. I the wiring have it setup to get power from the main relay 12v and earthed and the VSS goes to the ECU. here is the speedo configuration page not sure what has to change here to get the right readings.