What is the ultimate combination of Toyota V8 parts?

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

quadcam boat

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I friend is considering putting a twin turbo Nissan V8 into a race boat and I was wondering what the best offering of Turbocharged Toyota V8 I could suggest to him as an alternative.
What would be the Ultimate combo of Block, Heads, Crank, Rods, Pistons, and Inlet?
I feel the the Toyota has a lot to offer because of the availability of aftermarket parts, ability to swap between the 1,2 and 3UZfe and the availability of knowledge and info on them. The Nissan would be a lot more difficult in these regards.
Anyway put your 2 cents in!
Thanks,
Andrew
 

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Quadcam,

David and I have gone a couple of different ways to the same end....I've built a 4.7 2UZFE with the 2UZ heads and David has done the same thing with 1UZ heads. Mine is running and in the process of being tuned in my '03 Tundra. Synopsis:

Cast Iron 2UZFE block, bored .005 over and converted to 4-bolt mains. Used modified 1UZ main caps.

Using stock stroke forged 2UZ crank

Eagle SBC forged 5.7 small-journal rods

Ross custom forged piston, pin, ring package at a final 8.6:1 comp ratio with ARP L19 rod bolts

ARP main studs

ARP head studs

Cometec MLS head gaskets

Cams hardwelded and re-ground to Forced Induction specs (medium street grind, duration and lift are usable on street)

IK22 iridium plugs

piston tops, valves, head runners, chambers are all thermal coated

Bearings and piston skirts are anti-friction coated

I built it to run supercharged, turbocharged, nitrous and alcohol injection on 93 octane pump gas

So far am running supercharged and turbocharged. I'm in the tuning phase, so don't know the end result, but initial seat of the pants when I hit the right AFR and timing at certain RPM and boost is wild. The potential of the motor is around 1000-1200 hp with proper tuning. I won't go that far at this point, but looking for an easy 600 hp.

Hope this gives you some ideas... full story at http://www.lextreme.com/tundra.html

Wayne
 
Personally I think the combo above as Wayne stated. As for heads, I think the GS400 (VVTi) would mate perfectly with great flow. Turbonectics has that combination and easily achieved 1,600 rwhp.
 
Personally my choice woud be:
1UZ bored to take Ross 8.5:1 pistons
1UZ heads ported
Stock crank
Argo rods
Kelford cams
Richwood supercharger
Custom pipes
ARP fasteners right thru
Cometic h'gaskets
Adaptronic ECU

What have I missed?

That should give an easy 550hp to 625hp and have bags of torque which is just what a ski boat needs.

Total cost around $15,000.00

Buy a large beer esky (chilly bin for the KIWI's or Ice Box for the Americans) fill it with beer on what you saved over the other suggestions.

Keep the machining to a minimum and save a bundle.
 
Rod, I think the only thing you missed was the "once through", water to air intercooler.

I think Jordy was getting inlet air temps of 30 degrees C or less with his W2A setup, using river water.

Just a note on Wayne's setup, in doing some research awhile back on 2UZ features vs 1UZ, I'm not sure the 2UZ has a forged crank. In the NCF it only describes it as a "steel crankshaft", where in the 1UZ and 3UZ descriptions, it definitely mentions "forged steel crankshaft".
 
John,

I don't have empirical data about the 2UZ crankshaft at this point...going by the wide parting line, my machinist and the fact that I catestrophically destroyed my old motor and barely put a scratch on the crank. I will do some homework and look for something we can sink our teeth into...or not....

Wayne
 
The thread says "ultimate" but in the text he's asking for "best ofering".

The components I listed are more than good enough for what he wants whilst still being affordable.

Maybe we aren't all as well off as E-Solver but I figure the parts listed will do the job very well.

And John you're right I forgot the intercooling. Personally I'd use a Snow stage II system.
 
He also doesnt say the cheapest around... well for a sake of a couple more hundred on a many many thousand dollar build, I would go for a Link or Autronic ECU and some J&E or CP pistons in this critical area :) Much much better options in my humble unaffiliated opinion :) The Aquamist WI setup seems to be a popular choice amongst race teams... I will be using one of their electromagnetic pumps which I have in the garage...

Since he is after ultimate crank options as well, you may want to check these strokers out and cams! http://ttcperformance.com/shop/
 
Honestly, I don't see any advantage of using JE or CP. I have dealt with JE and what a terrible experience it was. The guy I talked to supposely in charge of imports. He just don't know jake about the Lexus pistons. Its like talking to an elementary student. Secondly, Ross have the most experience making Lexus-Toyota V8 Engines. JE might get its name from big races, but experience making pistons for our cars is not JE. CP is worst in the experience line. I called JE and they dont even know the different between the VVTi vs. the non VVTi pistons.

Its not important brand name, but how they can make your pistons to suite your application is the most important.
 
Ultimate Toyota parts...

Wondering why you guys would not go with the larger 5.7L Toyota Tundra engine block then build from there...Wouldn't the 5.7liter Tundra motor be a better choice to build over the 4.7L 2uz..'s, just based on liter size alone?

381hp in stock form......
 
Becuase <- Doesn't like the open deck design. I've already seen one 2005 1gr-fe (4.0L v6) 4runner block with a crack on the outside & a cunked out cylinder wall afew weeks ago.
The new v6's & v8's will have the same problems all the other open deck designs have. Weak block... Toyota isn't as bad as Honda. Toyota does include plastic protector plates. But I'm unconvienced how they will work to elivated horsepoewr levels at this point. Very unconvienced. Especially after seeing a stock engine blown up. It was serviced on time @ that dealer also. Maintenance was not a question.
To work a GR (The newer v6 family), or UR (Newer v8 family). Step one is going to be take the heads off & machine aluminum block protector plates / spacers (Whatever you want to call them) as large as possible & TIG weld them in.
That's my unqualified, inexperianced in super high power out opinion. But thus-far it seems completely obvious to me...

The 4.6L UR block makes 380hp / 370ft-lbs. The tundra makes 381hp / 401ft-lbs.

The SEMA Tundra's 5.7L has a 450hp+ TRD supercharger, but like the 4.0L v6 supercharger... It's nothing more than a teaser that will most likely never see production. NA to FI Toyota's when they use roots blowers have poor reliability rates.
 
Thanks Toys.....Sorry everyone to ask these stupid questions but why does it make a difference with engine failure whether or not the engine is an open deck design or an under the hood design?...Common knowledge suggests if the engines are cooled properly I would think it would not make a difference either way what so ever.....Is it the bouncing and jarring of the boat and engine over waves and ripples at high speeds that would maybe jar the engine into premature failure as apposed to soft suspension in a vehicle? That is really the only reason I could think of which still sounds kinda silly to me....Maybe the sea water would rust out the iron block before doing damage to a alluminum block? I don't know?????

Am I missing something here?
 
Honestly, I don't see any advantage of using JE or CP. I have dealt with JE and what a terrible experience it was. The guy I talked to supposely in charge of imports. He just don't know jake about the Lexus pistons. Its like talking to an elementary student. Secondly, Ross have the most experience making Lexus-Toyota V8 Engines. JE might get its name from big races, but experience making pistons for our cars is not JE. CP is worst in the experience line. I called JE and they dont even know the different between the VVTi vs. the non VVTi pistons.

Its not important brand name, but how they can make your pistons to suite your application is the most important.

Advantages are quality. My engine builder who has built thousands of motors for race and street said he would be embarassed to take Ross pistons to the scrap dealer and thinks their quality is by far the worst on the market. So I am going with him on this one :)
 
I cracked a little smile here :)

Open deck means that the deck or top of the block has open coolant passages around it and by open I mean that cylinder wall does not physically touch the rest of the block at the top.

Hondas have this a lot, and therefore something called a 'block guard' was machined to give the cylinder sleeve stability at the top or deck.

This is not a toyota engine, but this picture should give you an idea of what I was trying to describe


engine1.gif





Thanks Toys.....Sorry everyone to ask these stupid questions but why does it make a difference with engine failure whether or not the engine is an open deck design or an under the hood design?...Common knowledge suggests if the engines are cooled properly I would think it would not make a difference either way what so ever.....Is it the bouncing and jarring of the boat and engine over waves and ripples at high speeds that would maybe jar the engine into premature failure as apposed to soft suspension in a vehicle? That is really the only reason I could think of which still sounds kinda silly to me....Maybe the sea water would rust out the iron block before doing damage to a alluminum block? I don't know?????

Am I missing something here?
 
:pat: Well now.....Don't I feel like the jackarss????

Thank you sir, and I am glad I made you smile... That now makes alot more sense to me...DRRRrrrr....Ya learn something new every day.:22: ...

(I did cover myself a little bit by saying "sorry to ask stupid questions" in my above post. However, I still somehow feel like a jackarss...:07:

It happens.....:alcoholic:
 
e-solver you'll need two Aquamist pumps as one can't supply enough.

Go check out their Forum. Look up Zuffen's posts where I posed the question what system do I need to run the 1UZ. THe cost over GPB1,000 or about NZ$3,000! I'll take the Snow thanks.

Obviously your engine man is the worlds authority on pistons. I wonder what he would say about "The Fastest Indian" pistons cost in an old geezers kitchen and cooled in a drum of water. Funny he went on the set just a couple of records.

Ross would not be in business if their pistons were not up to the task. I don't believe any company can survive selling crap products as in this day and age the world would know. Have you ever seen/held a Ross piston?

I may not use Ross if I wanmted 1000hp or more but I also wouldn't use JP as there are better pistons out there if you want to pay.

What pistons did you use in your latest killer engine?
 
Don't feel like a jackass, it was funny, everyone has things to learn!


:pat: Well now.....Don't I feel like the jackarss????

Thank you sir, and I am glad I made you smile... That now makes alot more sense to me...DRRRrrrr....Ya learn something new every day.:22: ...

(I did cover myself a little bit by saying "sorry to ask stupid questions" in my above post. However, I still somehow feel like a jackarss...:07:

It happens.....:alcoholic:
 


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