Volvo 242GT re-engine

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

hrforever

Member
Messages
196
Location
Melbourne, Australia
After a lot of planning and doing all the little things from a maintenance point of view I've finally got around to test fitting the 1UZFE into the project vehicle, a 1979 Volvo 242GT. Not the prettiest subject but its solid, well engineered and rust free.

Things like the body and paint will stay the same for the moment but the interior has been upgraded with Recaro's and a R-Sport dash.

The trial fit shows the steering rod needs to be relocated a bit because of the exhaust, and a new sump will be required but everything else seems to fit ok with reasonable access around the motor.

Hopefully this link will send you in the right direction. http://s382.photobucket.com/albums/oo267/hrforever/Volvo re-engine/?albumview=grid
 
I've been hoping someone out there would be swapping this engine into a 240!

Which sump does your 1uzfe currently have? The front or rear sump?

Can you give me an idea of what type of clearance there is around the crossmember? Will the crossmember require trimming? Does there appear to be any interference with the steering rack?

I have a US-spec 240, so I wonder if I would have the same issues with the steering shaft on the other side of the engine bay.

Please keep the pictures coming.

regards,

Mike
 
RMS on here has done this and had a very tidy car as a result....ask him nicely for tips :)

I was doing the same with a 265 wagon which was a little easier as already had a V8 in it.....unfortunately the car suicided before i got started.
 
740atl, the trial fit was without the UZ sump. The engine came with a rear sump, but it cannot be used so a new one is to be made. To give you an idea, if the rear sump was used only half the lower metal bowl could be used because of the cross member location. I made a protective cover for the bottom of the motor for the trial fit which was 35mm deep which is the same as the front portion of the original sump and so it'll be built up using this as a starting point.

As for the steering, the motor sits nice and low but the exhaust manifold hit the steering shaft. Extending the column shaft may free up the room needed. The rack itself is fine. The brake booster is close, but should be fine.

Was pleasantly surprised how well it fitted.

JustenGT8, did RMS do the blue 264? If so, I've read an article on the build but attempts to contact and discuss went nowhere unfortunately. Still the article gave me so useful info.
 
JustenGT8, did RMS do the blue 264? If so, I've read an article on the build but attempts to contact and discuss went nowhere unfortunately. Still the article gave me so useful info.

I am quite happy to discuss what I did with the 264/Lexus, but as it was a one off, I did not keep dimensions etc.
Steering column does need to be modified and I had to move the brake booster and pedal box to clear the cam cover.

Erol
 
Erol, thanks for the reply. I realise the project was a one off and a fair time ago but do you remember what you did to the steering? I've move the column over but I still need a bit more space. I'm looking at using a longer universal at the steering column end to gain some space, and if this doesn't work possibly putting in another uni with support bracket. Also, did you mount the motor to the cross member or did you manufacture another mount that extends between the front rails. I'm expecting to use the cross member and original holes with a new engine mount bracket.

Finally, the photo in the article suggests the original 6cyl radiator was used. If so, was cooling an issue.
 
The steering column was shortened and had a universal fitted at the bulkhead and one at the rack - they were joined by a .5" shaft that just cleared the exhaust manifold.

Engine was mounted at both the crossmember and chassis rails with a tripod type mount.

6cyl rad was no problem on the street (even towing), but at Wakefield Park circuit it was inadequate for sustained full throttle work.
 
Good luck, Ive just finnished installing the v8 into a 940 wagon, just a few electrical gremlins and a tailshaft and it will be on the road. I used a rear sump but had to modify both the crossmember and sump to get enough clearance
 
Engine mounts now fabricated using ideas from cjsupra90 and ed ma61. Everything made from 5mm steel plate and steam pressure pipe. Bushes are urathane measuring 32mmOD, 19mmID, 40mm total length, with a crush tube insert for 14mm bolt.

My weldings not pretty, but with a bit of a clean up and paint should prove effective.
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got the dimensions of your cut pieces? they are pretty much EXACTY what i was dreaming up to use using VT commy LCA bushes etc.
 
Pro,

The sizes are a bit hard to explain but I can tell you I've used 5mm plate and cut to a size that fits without fouling exhaust or steering. The height from the very top of the engine plate to the very bottom of the bush is 195mm. The ID of the bush holder is 32mm with 4.8mm wall. The pipe is used for steam equipment. Suggest that you source this part first then get the bushes to fit. Nolathane have a book that lists all sizes available.

Shapes were first fabricated in cardboard with motor sitting in place, then transfered to steel. Lot easier to cut with scissors to get shape, especially if your lying under the car.

Hope this helps.
 
Here's a picture of the finished engine mounts, less cross member bracket, and my new Tilton hydraulic throw out bearing. It's similar to the Howe unit used by others but its price and immediate availability meant it was a better choice for me. Also, these units are used in V8 Supercars so their durability under extreme conditions is proven locally.It still needs to be bolted into place but it fits perfectly.
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Well, since starting this project last year, I've never heard this motor run, until today. After roughly wiring the motor and computer up with assistance from Sideshow, I turned the key and the motor sprang into life. What a relief.:haha:

The projects been going a bit slower that planned due to my own financial crisis but since my last post I have managed to source a stainless steel sump that was surplus to someone elses project, install a Walbro fuel pump, make a short shifter for the Supra box, get a tail shaft made, get the hydraulic throw out working, source a triple core, close finned Commodore radiator, tracked down a 16" electric fan with switch and finally get the motor/trans permanently positioned.

All that's left now to do is connect the power steering, properly install the wiring, fit an exhaust and hook up the radiator/heater hoses. Seems all to easy. Time will tell.


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Well done.

At least you stuck at it even though the dollars we're a bit short.

Should make an interesting drive.

I see a few Chev powered 24* series Volvos around my area and it's odd hearing a "rumbly" Volvo.
 
Hey, Good to see it's nearly ready to go, You still up for a race against my gemini, well once I put it back together again! That Volvo Radiator I bought off you served me well, I found out it was getting hot because it actually had a blown headgasket...
 


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