Twin intercooled M112 Eaton 1UZ-FE

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
i wrote to just jags they don't have anymore setups like this at the moment but will email me when they do if i am not interested i will be sure to post when they do.
 
hi pete
i am about 2weeks from having my jag intercooled m112 fitted to my 1uz
With the intercoolers i cut the bottoms off and started again to fit the 1uz heads
so far it has fitted really well i left the front water bridge and welded a plate on it to mount the front of the supercharger and pick up some taped holes in the vee to mount the back of the supercharger. i will try to round up some photos.
 
Pete,

As you are obviously an "active" or UZZ32 owner, could you tell me the size of the front pulley on the crankshaft.

My guess it is 5.5" and 6 rib as it drives the accessories and the rear pulley drives the suspension.

I was looking at using the extra pulley to run my M112 and use an idler to tension it. This would lower the drag on the 6 rib belt and help it transfer the power.

Assuming my guesses are correct would you have any idea where I could get my hands on one?


Appreciate any help.
 
I think Peter is MIA for a while..... WHERE ARE YOU? I will re-open the package today if still having receive Peter's mailing address.
 
Jordy I really want to see the intercoolers with the bottoms cut off - get a good look inside. Actually I want to see all the photos! of everything! I can't go on top of the water bridge in my car - it makes the blower too high and hits the bonnet.
I want to know how you gonna get the intercoolers mounted to the heads and still be able to bolt them on and off.
I had a real l close look at a jag across the road (some more pictures on my site) and it really looks as if the only way is to sneak a flexible drive allen key or torque? head down between the blower and intercooler from the top. There is no other way to get at the stock bolts on the Jag.
Also looks pretty narrow between the fuel rail and the blower - like to see how you tackle that one as well.
Yours will be higher than mine - but much the same principle. I have to cut and shut my throttle mount at 45 degrees to mount the stock Soarer throttle too - can't go straight up in to the air - again another bonnet restraint.
Anyway good luck with the project - hope to hear more soon.

Thanks for the encouragement everybody. Modular pulley system and pulley pullershould be here soon (thanks to Lex), the big injectors should be hear tomorrow (I have half of them) and then it's back to the "where does everything go?" stage.
I want to dummy fit the entire wiring loom, injectors fuel supply etc - make sure it will fit under the bonnet - then I have to take the whole lot to a workshop to get milled, machined, welded etc - I can't do any of that. I've got a few places to check out in Adelaide - but I don't really know who will do this work for me. I'm hoping once I have all the bits I can get it custom fitted for around $2000 on the engine stand - as usual it will probably be more.
 
Peter,

You gotta ship your car over to the US so we can go head to head..... SC Vs. ST..... Intercooled Vs. Intercooled.... 1UZ vs. 1UZ.... Aussies Vs. Yankees
 
Pete,

As everyone has been saying... this is an awesome project and should work extremely well.

Let me add something that may help. The 1998+ intake lower intake manifold may be a much better starting place IF (of course a big IF and one that I havent confirmed) it fits the earlier heads. This lower manifold is also found on the Toyota V8 trucks and may be cheaper than the Lexus parts.

Of course you will still need to mill off most of the manifold but the angle and placement of the ports and injectors may make it easier to install. You could possibly even keep the bolt locations for the upper intake and fashion a plate to align with the SC manifolding. This may make installations and service easier.

Here is a picture:
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HI Pete

here are some photos of my intercoolers with the ports cut off
i got the rotors reteflon coated and puting new bearings and seals
I got 380cc rochester injectors and an sx rising rate fuel reg
to fit the injectors i had to make new fuel rails and a new manifold
so they would fitt i will have some more photos soon
 
Good photos. I like the intercooler shots. I guess you're using a Delco to run the motor?
Who recoats rotors in Teflon and how much and why did you? That blower will be like new when you're done.
Keep the photos coming. Couldn't you get by with no fuel pressure reg with the bigger injectors? Do you reckon I'll need a fuel pressure reg? I have a Unichip fitted now to tune the naturally aspirated motor - hope to tune later for the supercharger.
Looking forward to seeing how you bolt the intercoolers to the intake manifold etc.
Great work so far. Photos are nice and clear too.
 
Jbrady the manifold looks great - I like the way the intake is so upright and curves around the injectors - I'll have to do something similar for sure. Bolting the intercoolers with just one row of bolts looks tricky -
 
Looks like there is a lot more in this than first anticipated.

Most people will not have realised that whilst you need to juggle the manifold /intercooler relationship tp get ports to line up (or get close to lining up) you also need to keep the drive pulley's relationship with the front of the motor within a few thou tolerance.

Lastly you need to be 100% sure the blowers drive shaft is 100% parallel with the crankshaft.

Any minor variation will give belt squeal or even walk the belt off one or other of the pulleys.

Serpentine belts are more critical of alignment than the old V belt.

You two guys are doing something most people would look at and say "no way". Well done.
 
Jordy,
you should be able to use the stock fuel pressure regulator. From what I can work out rising rate fuel pressure regulators are for when you add boost to a standard motor and can't increase fueling through the existing factory ECU. They increse the fuel pressure as boost increases and therefore increse the amount of fuel injected into the motor whithout altering the ECU. In your case, you can just use a standard fuel pressure regulator and adjust you fuel table in the Wolf 3D to supply extra fuel under boost. I was told that setting up a fuel table with a rising rate fuel pressure regulator can be difficult, because as your boost goes up, the amount of fuel injected for the number of milliseconds that the injector is opened varies with boost pressure, and also that they tend to vary a bit in how much they rise the pressure. Ray Hall recommended that I stay away from them. Anyway I'm not 100% sure on this so please anyone correct me if I'm inncorrect!!
 
Hi pete
i got the rotors retefloned because when i pulled the supercharger apart the rotors
had a few little chips going through the teflon and they had a fair build up of carbon
on them. i put all the parts of the supercharger in the parts washer for 1/2 hour
and most of the teflon peeled off. So i know a place in melbourne who teflons things
I needed the teflon to be .05mm or .002'' thick.
They did the job in heat and chemical resistant teflon 2thou thick they did a real good
job it costed 35$ a rotor so 70$.

I am using a wolf3d version4 to drive the motor i am real happy with it
I am using an aftermarket fuel reg because i am making new fuel rails and i dont want
to tap extra holes in the rails.
 
The Teflon certainly looks a treat in the photo. I reckon I will leave mine alone - it looks pretty sparkle sparkle inside and spins smooth and quite. I wish I could do that custom stuff you have, but I only have a broken hacksaw blade and an old dob of bluetack in the shed :(
 


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