Total Noob Question On The Starter Motor

[Doug68]

Ok so due to my flywheel arrangment I've moved the flexplate back against the crank (spacer removed). Which has caused the starter motor to need shifting back too.

BTW in the interest of full disclosure, the flew plate I have did not come with the motor, it was bought later from a wreckers

All well and good, so before reassembling the inlet I thought I'd test the starter motor just in case it turned out to be dead.

So it works it comes out, engages & winds the motor over, so the first hurdle passed, but after stopping the pinion does not disengage. I can push it back in by hand ok and when the motor was off the engine I'd looked at it and the spring in there appears to be functioning.

So do I need to do something about this? Does the pinion get 'flung' off when the motor starts or do I have mismatched parts or something?

Thanks,

 

[Zuffen]

My starter is spaced back 1-2mm form its usual position as my flywheel just catches it.

If you move it back much than that further it may move out of the engagement area on the starter. You'll notice the nose of the starter is tapered to locate it.

You may need to work out how to centralise the starter in the block.

Essentially I would think the starter is set too low and dragging on the teeth of the ring gear.

 

[Doug68]

Yeah, I've tried the thing without the spacers and the starter does no retract at all then either (it interferes with the ring even when retracted).

I also tried to ensure that the motor was as far up as possible when bolting in, but it is coming up on the locating part of its body, so ends up in the same place, the spacers I'm using are 4mm.

Basically you're saying though I need to get it to retract fully on power off.

 

[Cobber]

Doug,

First thing double check you have a 1uz flex plate, you may be chasing your tail.

The starter should flick back in when powered off.

Try the starter off the engine to see how strong the retract is. It may have got a bit gummed up sitting around. The starters are easy to re build and a bit of grease in the right spots may do the trick.

 

[Doug68]

Cobber,

Thanks for the advice, I actually saw the the flex plate being pulled from the motor when I bought it I am fairly sure it was a 1UZ-FE it came off of.

I think I'll have a go at stater motor guts, it takes a reasonable pull by hand to pull out the pinion but it can be done and it snaps back ok. To push it back off of the ring gears not much of a push at all.

 

[Zuffen]

They usually need a good yank to get the pinion out.

Double check you don't have some corrosion on the teeth of the start and/or ring gear as this may just hamper the action.