The Fish
- Thread starter kc95sc400
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I am very hopefull. I cannot complain about the way the car ran with the intercooler so if worse comes to worse, I'll put it back in. The two pipes in the front are the same length as the IC, so it should slide back in without much trouble. If I can keep the temps around 40+- above ambient, I will keep this setup. If not, I may sell the IC and look for a smaller one.
The reason I am trying this last setup without the intercooler.. The driveability is so much better without it. I have had less compressor surge with the other non IC setups. Boost should come in much lower which should equal more power on the low end. Top end power should only be affected by the higher temps, otherwise should be more or less the same I would think. I think a slight decrease in top end power in trade for more low end power and better drivability is a good trade.
I have a friend coming over today to help me make some vids, I'll post them up soon.
I am very excited to see more plans involving an SC400 and the fish, it will be awesome to see how everyone else does it. Keep us informed!
KC
Lex, I have the MAFTPro, and I'm not currently using a bypass.
I figured out that my fuel pressure regulator (OEM) is bad. Any suggestions? I can get one from Lexus fairly cheap, I get a discount. Are there any aftermarket rising rates that will go into the stock location? Or at least totally eliminate the stock one?
Thanks, and please respond ASAP. I will likely try and get one from Lexus tomorrow. If they don't have it in stock, I know I can have it by Friday.
KC
From what I can tell, all the aftermarket units require the OEM one to be in place, so I'll try and get one tomorrow.
Nice vid. Are the turbos on it yet? How in the heck do you plan on keeping traction? I have trouble keeping traction with my little 4.0!
If I had the money, I would have already ordered one, the 5.2 version of course.
Check this out. http://www.060calculator.com/
I put in 443fwhp, 3800lbs (GVW + my weight), RWD, auto to get 4.5 seconds. If it's somewhat accurate, that would mean I have about 350+-RWHP with 20% drivetrain loss.:headbang:
I'm sure I could do better with practice and wider tires.
Need to hit the dyno. For comparison purposes, any idea what dyno is most commonly used by FI Lexus owners?
KC
(HP x B.S.F.C) / (no. of injectors x .80)
In your case of forced induction, you'll need to have the BSFC of .60. For example of 400 bhp, the above calculation will be like this:
(400 x .60) / (8 x .80) = 37.5 lb/min => 37.5 x 10.5 = 393.75 cc/min.
You'll need 8 of 393.75 cc/min injectors to fulfill 400 bhp.
However, with the rising rate FMU, the case will be different. The max psi of boost to be used with the FMU is 9 psi. Going higher than this will put you at a big risk as recommended by the pros. I just learned this from them and applied it successfully in real life. For example, if you use the FMU with the 12:1 ratio at 9 psi, you'll have the fuel pressure of (12 x 9) + 40 of stock fuel pressure. This will be 148 psi of fuel pressure. The more boost you'll run, the more fuel pressure you'll have. I've been using the FMU with stock fuel injectors at 6 psi with no problem.
If you can trade for the Supra TT black injectors, I think each one is 440 cc/min.
Well, I have no idea how much hp I am really making, but at 9-10psi, I have not had fueling issues until recently because of my OEM FPR.
So, since I have not had fueling issues with the stock injectors and an OEM FPR that has likely been going bad for awhile now, I would think that a new OEM FPR and 315 injectors would be a benefit to me. I would set the mainscale on the MAFTPro to -20% or so, and should have all the fuel I would need for boost.
I am in no way an expert, and I don't doubt the math, but the above statement would, to me, seem true.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Thanks,
KC
You can try the 315 cc/min injectors with the new FPR, but like I mentioned, you're risking the engine, although the AEM gauge says the ratio is good. It might not last. I bought a set of 315 cc/min injectors and planned to use them with the FMU to max out these injectors at 12 psi and hope they'll be good enough. However, I changed my mind because the fuel pressure will be too much, and I didn't want to risk the engine. I'm looking into adding the extra injectors using the Split Second. You already paid thousands $ on the system, why would you save a hundred $ for a big risk?
I am very hopefull. I cannot complain about the way the car ran with the intercooler so if worse comes to worse, I'll put it back in. The two pipes in the front are the same length as the IC, so it should slide back in without much trouble. If I can keep the temps around 40+- above ambient, I will keep this setup. If not, I may sell the IC and look for a smaller one.
The reason I am trying this last setup without the intercooler.. The driveability is so much better without it. I have had less compressor surge with the other non IC setups. Boost should come in much lower which should equal more power on the low end. Top end power should only be affected by the higher temps, otherwise should be more or less the same I would think. I think a slight decrease in top end power in trade for more low end power and better drivability is a good trade.
I have a friend coming over today to help me make some vids, I'll post them up soon.
I am very excited to see more plans involving an SC400 and the fish, it will be awesome to see how everyone else does it. Keep us informed!
KC
Couple new vids, must see!
Burnout
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtUWAxegSOw
Massive burnout
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WKS5Vom480
Drive up and drive away
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8SUPEP6bco
Drive by
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiA-6Q8OF1U
Still hope to do some 0-60 runs with the new setup tonight.
KC
Burnout
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtUWAxegSOw
Massive burnout
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WKS5Vom480
Drive up and drive away
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8SUPEP6bco
Drive by
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiA-6Q8OF1U
Still hope to do some 0-60 runs with the new setup tonight.
KC
Some newish, uncut 0-60 runs. The best run I clocked was 4.51 seconds!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFPTWEXMzvA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CO681hcAOag
KC
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFPTWEXMzvA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CO681hcAOag
KC
Attachments
Guys,
I'm actually having a bit of trouble right now. I don't know why I have so many issues.
Since the new piping setup, I idle and cruise rich and go lean with ANY acceloration. Lean, even without boost.
Open to suggestions.
Going to check for vac / boost leaks.
Check my MAF wiring. I had lengthened the harness when I tried putting the MAF on the SC inlet, I re shortened it when I changed the piping.
Possible fuel pressure regulator problem, or the VSV that controls it?
Still have some bucking on the highway with very light throttle BTW.
KC
I'm actually having a bit of trouble right now. I don't know why I have so many issues.
Since the new piping setup, I idle and cruise rich and go lean with ANY acceloration. Lean, even without boost.
Open to suggestions.
Going to check for vac / boost leaks.
Check my MAF wiring. I had lengthened the harness when I tried putting the MAF on the SC inlet, I re shortened it when I changed the piping.
Possible fuel pressure regulator problem, or the VSV that controls it?
Still have some bucking on the highway with very light throttle BTW.
KC
Lextreme II
Active Member
What type of fuel management are you using. Secondly double check your bypass valve vac line and it should open during idle.
Lex, I have the MAFTPro, and I'm not currently using a bypass.
I figured out that my fuel pressure regulator (OEM) is bad. Any suggestions? I can get one from Lexus fairly cheap, I get a discount. Are there any aftermarket rising rates that will go into the stock location? Or at least totally eliminate the stock one?
Thanks, and please respond ASAP. I will likely try and get one from Lexus tomorrow. If they don't have it in stock, I know I can have it by Friday.
KC
Lextreme II
Active Member
No aftermarket FPR going to be direct bolt on. I do have some used one if you want. However, I suggest u get a new one from the dealer. Save u lot of headaches. By the way, I made this earlier. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9anHP6Mlac
From what I can tell, all the aftermarket units require the OEM one to be in place, so I'll try and get one tomorrow.
Nice vid. Are the turbos on it yet? How in the heck do you plan on keeping traction? I have trouble keeping traction with my little 4.0!
If I had the money, I would have already ordered one, the 5.2 version of course.
Check this out. http://www.060calculator.com/
I put in 443fwhp, 3800lbs (GVW + my weight), RWD, auto to get 4.5 seconds. If it's somewhat accurate, that would mean I have about 350+-RWHP with 20% drivetrain loss.:headbang:
I'm sure I could do better with practice and wider tires.
Need to hit the dyno. For comparison purposes, any idea what dyno is most commonly used by FI Lexus owners?
KC
Lextreme II
Active Member
Sorry I meant aftermarket performance AFPR. I am pretty there are aftermarket FPR for the Lexus application. I am glad u found the problem. Your car dyno already? Nice....
As for me... NO turbo.. just NA for now..
As for me... NO turbo.. just NA for now..
You know, when I think about it, the stupid FPR could be the source of some of the problems I've had through this entire project.
Does anyone have any idea if the OEM Supra TT FPR will fit the SC400? Don't know if it would change pressure any, but at least it is made for boost.
What would be the better setup, OEM FPR with Supra 315's (fuel computer for adjustment) or stock injectors with aftermarket rising rate FPR? I am making about 10psi and haven't had fuel issues until like 2 days ago, but I would like to upgrade to be safe.
I already have injectors.
Lex, would you consider a trade for the 8 315's I have for one of those Aeromotive kits you offer? PM me and let me know.
KC
Does anyone have any idea if the OEM Supra TT FPR will fit the SC400? Don't know if it would change pressure any, but at least it is made for boost.
What would be the better setup, OEM FPR with Supra 315's (fuel computer for adjustment) or stock injectors with aftermarket rising rate FPR? I am making about 10psi and haven't had fuel issues until like 2 days ago, but I would like to upgrade to be safe.
I already have injectors.
Lex, would you consider a trade for the 8 315's I have for one of those Aeromotive kits you offer? PM me and let me know.
KC
stevechumo
Active Member
I totally don't think 315 cc/min injectors without the FMU will be enough for 10 psi. Here's the standard calculation of the injector size at the crank HP:
(HP x B.S.F.C) / (no. of injectors x .80)
In your case of forced induction, you'll need to have the BSFC of .60. For example of 400 bhp, the above calculation will be like this:
(400 x .60) / (8 x .80) = 37.5 lb/min => 37.5 x 10.5 = 393.75 cc/min.
You'll need 8 of 393.75 cc/min injectors to fulfill 400 bhp.
However, with the rising rate FMU, the case will be different. The max psi of boost to be used with the FMU is 9 psi. Going higher than this will put you at a big risk as recommended by the pros. I just learned this from them and applied it successfully in real life. For example, if you use the FMU with the 12:1 ratio at 9 psi, you'll have the fuel pressure of (12 x 9) + 40 of stock fuel pressure. This will be 148 psi of fuel pressure. The more boost you'll run, the more fuel pressure you'll have. I've been using the FMU with stock fuel injectors at 6 psi with no problem.
If you can trade for the Supra TT black injectors, I think each one is 440 cc/min.
Well, I have no idea how much hp I am really making, but at 9-10psi, I have not had fueling issues until recently because of my OEM FPR.
So, since I have not had fueling issues with the stock injectors and an OEM FPR that has likely been going bad for awhile now, I would think that a new OEM FPR and 315 injectors would be a benefit to me. I would set the mainscale on the MAFTPro to -20% or so, and should have all the fuel I would need for boost.
I am in no way an expert, and I don't doubt the math, but the above statement would, to me, seem true.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Thanks,
KC
stevechumo
Active Member
If you didn't have the FPR issue before supercharging, then more likey the supercharging caused the FPR to go bad. You can try to unhook 1 section of the intake pipe and leave it open without any connection to the supercharger as in stock condition. Then abuse your car to see how the stock fuel react to it.
You can try the 315 cc/min injectors with the new FPR, but like I mentioned, you're risking the engine, although the AEM gauge says the ratio is good. It might not last. I bought a set of 315 cc/min injectors and planned to use them with the FMU to max out these injectors at 12 psi and hope they'll be good enough. However, I changed my mind because the fuel pressure will be too much, and I didn't want to risk the engine. I'm looking into adding the extra injectors using the Split Second. You already paid thousands $ on the system, why would you save a hundred $ for a big risk?
Lextreme II
Active Member
KC,
I have a friend with a M90 and 315 cc. Idle was rough. I dont have any need for 315 injectors right now... Perhaps in the future....
I have a friend with a M90 and 315 cc. Idle was rough. I dont have any need for 315 injectors right now... Perhaps in the future....
Well, the FPR has a rubber diaphram (I assume), rubber goes bad and dry rots over time. The car is 13 years old. I didn't have any problems with any of the vac lines before supercharging either. But, put some boost on the old, worn out rubber and problems happen.
On the injector question, all I am saying is, I haven't had any fueling issues with the stock fuel system, until recently of course. Could be that the low CFM output of the v-9 has something to do with it.
All that being said, the new FPR DID NOT fix my problem. I'm going to drive home from work running in speed density (not using the MAF) to see if anything changes. If it does, my MAF may be acting up again.
The only other thing I can think of would be a fuel pump problem.
Please, if you have suggestions, let me know.
KC
On the injector question, all I am saying is, I haven't had any fueling issues with the stock fuel system, until recently of course. Could be that the low CFM output of the v-9 has something to do with it.
All that being said, the new FPR DID NOT fix my problem. I'm going to drive home from work running in speed density (not using the MAF) to see if anything changes. If it does, my MAF may be acting up again.
The only other thing I can think of would be a fuel pump problem.
Please, if you have suggestions, let me know.
KC
BTW,
When I say the car is going lean, I mean really lean, with 2psi and less than half throttle, I'm REALLY lean.
The MAFTPro, I have the mainscale set +10, +30% for boost, and 25% from the AFR tracking, and I'm still lean. That's adding 65% fuel and I'm still lean.
The problem is getting worse. Wasn't any better without the MAF running in speed density. I have to suspect the fuel pump is going bad. Or, maybe the VSV that goes to the FPR.
KC
When I say the car is going lean, I mean really lean, with 2psi and less than half throttle, I'm REALLY lean.
The MAFTPro, I have the mainscale set +10, +30% for boost, and 25% from the AFR tracking, and I'm still lean. That's adding 65% fuel and I'm still lean.
The problem is getting worse. Wasn't any better without the MAF running in speed density. I have to suspect the fuel pump is going bad. Or, maybe the VSV that goes to the FPR.
KC
stevechumo
Active Member
The fuel pump could be the problem. The Walbro 255 lph/hp is the best bang for the buck. Here it is. http://www.lextreme.com/walbro_255_l.htm. After your fuel system is completely ready and if these issues still happen, then you'll need to look into other issues.
Guys,
Quick update. I figured out that the pin in the MAFTPro harness for the MAF output was bad, so I wasn't getting a good signal to the ECU from the MAFTPro. Fixed my lean problem, mostly.
I'm still losing fuel under boost, feels like the fuel pump is cutting out. I had already purchased a Walbro. It's sitting on my work bench, I'm going to install it later tonight.
I did some testing on my OEM fuel pump before I decided to order one. The resistance across the terminals is fine, .7 ohms. But... I think it's shorted out internally. From one terminal to the pump hosing, no continuity. From the other terminal to the housing, I had like 400k ohms. The resistance would change dramatically while shaking the pump. Also, I can feel the internals of the pump moving around a bit while I'm shaking it, can't be good.
I'll post results later.
KC
Quick update. I figured out that the pin in the MAFTPro harness for the MAF output was bad, so I wasn't getting a good signal to the ECU from the MAFTPro. Fixed my lean problem, mostly.
I'm still losing fuel under boost, feels like the fuel pump is cutting out. I had already purchased a Walbro. It's sitting on my work bench, I'm going to install it later tonight.
I did some testing on my OEM fuel pump before I decided to order one. The resistance across the terminals is fine, .7 ohms. But... I think it's shorted out internally. From one terminal to the pump hosing, no continuity. From the other terminal to the housing, I had like 400k ohms. The resistance would change dramatically while shaking the pump. Also, I can feel the internals of the pump moving around a bit while I'm shaking it, can't be good.
I'll post results later.
KC
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