Procharged 1992 SC400 "Fish bracket setup"

[xspsi6]

Oil on the maf will for sure screw things up as even people who run K&N filters can get these problems from the filter oil getting on the maf.

 

[spf_lexus]

Oil on the maf will for sure screw things up as even people who run K&N filters can get these problems from the filter oil getting on the maf.

Im going to check the maf today and this weekend i'll finally sort my o2's. Like i was saying, I have seen oil in a tiny low spot inside the boost pipe with just happens to be about 3 feet from my blower. I guess my intercooler from my last setup held the oil to one side.

Steve,

I should have them relocated this weekend, thanks for the tips. I was mostly curious about RF interference. Its hard to find shielded wire and then shielded shrink tube but its out there so I wanted to know if its required. I had to re-solder a couple cam sensors and noticed that the stock loom was RF shielded.

 

[stevechumo]

I just used standard wires that are slightly larger than the OEM wires. At the solder points, I used half of the wire strands from the aftermarket wires, so that the solder point thickness has similar size as the whole wire. That can eliminate resistance. These sensors are very sensitive to resistance.

I once had oil in the MAF and I just used brake cleaner to clean it, then I used pressurized air at low psi (about 40 psi) and blew it clean. I didn't have issue with it. However, I heard that someone cleaned it (i don't know how he cleaned it) and he ruined his MAF.

 

[xspsi6]

I just used standard wires that are slightly larger than the OEM wires. At the solder points, I used half of the wire strands from the aftermarket wires, so that the solder point thickness has similar size as the whole wire. That can eliminate resistance. These sensors are very sensitive to resistance.

I once had oil in the MAF and I just used brake cleaner to clean it, then I used pressurized air at low psi (about 40 psi) and blew it clean. I didn't have issue with it. However, I heard that someone cleaned it (i don't know how he cleaned it) and he ruined his MAF.

Yup this is how I keep them clean and no issues thus far.

 

[spf_lexus]

re-soldred all cam connections, shrink tubed, wrapped in tin foil then elecctrical taped = no change. I was about to throw in the towell for the day until I realized that i never tested the MAF sensor. Inspected it = zero oil contamination or oil anywhere near the MAF so that was ruled out. Unplugging the sensor proved to be all that was needed. test drove and she revved as smooth as it did in N/A. very pleased but can I safely say this is the cause? I do not have a scope/DVOM to test it with.

I dont mind a dip in mpg, but can i daily drive this for a bit w/o the sensor plugged in? I did this while the engine was N/A but not blown.

 

[spf_lexus]

Let me just say that this thing is an absolute beast right now! I took her to wal mart for some supplies when on my way back a guy in a modded evo 9 decided he wanted to 2-step me at a green light. i didn't even brake boost and tooh him by the end of 1st gear. I cannot wait for the extra 5% power i'm not seeing when I go back to sealevel.

 

[spf_lexus]

Finally got around to installing my Autometer wideband and wow I have a lean issue!

Full boost ran up to 16:1 and I started to hear some detonation so I let off and it dropped back down to 12:1. I need to double check that the gauge was programmed for the right fuel but im pretty sure its close. This gauge can take diesel, gas, alcahol and propane so I need to double check this.

My rising rate failed so I hav been cruising under light throttle. here's the AFR breakdown w? 100% stock fuel system:

Idle: 10:1
10% throttle @ 40mph: 13.5-14:1 and sometimes as high as 15:1 cruising.
full boost: creeps from 14:1 all the way to 16:1.

I will admit it runs great... always stays cool and gets excellent MPG but its just plain dangerous as of rite now.

 

[JustenGT8]

I can't believe it's still alive with those AFRs on boost???.....i'll bet your No.5 piston is on the verge of failure.

Get your rising rate reg sorted seeing that was your only fuel control for boost wasn't it? no e-manage or anything eh?

 

[spf_lexus]

I just swapped a low mile UZ a few weeks back and so far its held up to 2 pulls with the larger pulley on board. I felt like a total idiot when I realized that I was literally flipping a coin every time the pedal went to the floor. On a side note, I always commute with an empty tank (4 mile commute) so if I boost... its for a second or 2.

I just swapped back to my larger 3.4" pulley until my new FMU arrives and told myself to drive like a grandma for a few days.

I ran a simple 12:1 and a walbro in my LS and it was so rich under 7psi that the smell would make me sick to my stomach. It was so rich I had to knock it back to 10:1 which ran fine for over a year boosted daily. I figure with the the extra 2psi fuel/1psi boost should be enough... "Garden Hose" action to keep it rich at redline.

I still have my adaptronic and 2 spare harnesses sitting at home so when im done with school this August I plan to give tuning a real try.

 

[spf_lexus]

.....i'll bet your No.5 piston is on the verge of failure.

Whats the deal with #5 piston? Does it tend to run hotter than the others or something?

 

[JustenGT8]

I'm not exactly sure but seeing it sits opposite the TB i suspect it runs a smidge leaner than the other cyls? It's the piston i've lost in the 2 engines that have let go, every other cyl was fine with good compression and leak down results. It was fuelling that let me down both times but for different reasons.

 

[spf_lexus]

Thats a good point, never considered the TB placement. Now I really want a VVt front facing TB. Better distribution no?

 

[JustenGT8]

Yeah definitely....the VVTi manifold is miles ahead in design in all regards.

 

[spf_lexus]

Thats it... screw fabbing an early UZ manifold into a straight... when I get home I WILL be adapting the vvt manifold onto mine. Better low end tq, higher rpm flow, better air distribution. There are just too many benefits for me not to try this. I'll prob just run a GM matching I.D. throttle body and then splice in the GM TPS sensor.

Would a standard GM TPS sensor put out a similar or different voltage signal versus toyota oem?

On a side note, just got home from a long commute and the wideband read a steady 12:1-13:1 under very light throttle input at 70mph. Mash the pedal down and it quickly drops down to 10:1 where it should be.

 

[stevechumo]

If you run low to mild boost, stock TB would be good enough.

 

[spf_lexus]

the VVt manifold is drive by wire so its pretty useless for me. I would have to swap the early TB which is very long so i was thinking GM TB for compactness and simplicity (aside from soldering the TPS leads).

This sucks... yesterday I temorarily swapped back to N/A while I wait for a new FMU. I am leaving the grocery store when 2 mathing gunmetal cars; an Audi R8 and en evo X MR are literally racing down main street using cars as slolam poles. I instinctivly pull out to follow suit when I realized I had absolutely no power Lol so i said screw it. It would have been a trio of gunmetal rides.

 

[spf_lexus]

Assembled some rear sway bar end links. I'll have to take a picture of the fronts later. amazing what a simple male + female rod end can do.

 

[spf_lexus]

Major update: DO NOT BUY SYNAPSE FMU'S

Just had one fail on me on my way back from the grocery store. The unit spewed fuel pressure out of a seal and started quite a big engine fire. Thank god I had just bought 2 gallons of juice to make protein shakes with and this was the only reason why I was able to put it out. Nothing was melted except for the maf sensor but I have a spare so no big deal. Now I have a soot covered engine thats covered in corn syrup! Im pissed because I paid $200 for this FMU thinking it was better than the rest, I guess i was wrong.

Anyway it looks like the Vortech FMU will replace it.

On a side note, it did get a pair of Federal SS595 275/30/19's installed in the rear earlier in the day and so far its the widest I can fit w/ a 20 offset, 9.5" rim. I hope to fit a 305 back there once I can afford a set of gram lights in a 54 offset.

 

[stevechumo]

Engine Fire! That's the worst thing to a modded car.

I've used Vortech and it never had a problem. Vortech is cheaper as well. It's about $160.

305 in the rear may scrub the strut. I run 285 with 35 offset and it barely clears the strut under hard launch. It scrubs the brake line if it's protruding out too much. The wheel hops in during hard launch.

 

[spf_lexus]

285 is a massive tire in itself. I must admit I am tire greedy . i have gone from a 235, to a 245, to a 255 and now a 275. I was at a car show in Denver a few months back and there was an sc300 drifter rocking 305's. I asked every question I could about his wheel fitments. He was running a 10.5" rear wheel in a 52 or 54 offset but said he could only make it work with a 10mm spacer to clear his coilovers... like you said. Of course he had a fairly aggressive fender pull and repaint job but it was admiration at 1st sight. I told myself I HAD to make it work Lol. I know G&J aircraft supply in montclair can custom make brake lines in any length and with some fiddling with spacers and a serious fender roll I am planning this upgrade next.

Its a major investment because Gram Lights 57 maximum Pro's in 18" and custom offset is going to be almost 5 grand. I really want a track ready SC so this car will be garaged by the end of the year for track use only.