MAF is FUBAR, where to from here? ~7psi procharged

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
thanks for the info Kc, helps a lot. So Mafpro controller + Gm 3bar MAP, and GM IAT + harness? I plan on buying everything and having a tuner w/ a dyno do all the hard work. Just need to make sure what I need.
 
Fingers crossed, but at this stage I may have snagged a deal through my work (auto journo) to get a full custom Adaptronic ECU system installed and tuned...

PSI here we come. Anyone know what the stock Celsior injectors are good for? Petrol will be my back up fuel so not as important as lpg.
 
Steve ran 9psi on his stock ones, I know what u mean I need a final solution too! I think this mafpro might be my answer, it's pretty cheap and states it trims for larger injectors and swaps over to MAP. How cheap can u get adaptronic :)
 
thanks for the info Kc, helps a lot. So Mafpro controller + Gm 3bar MAP, and GM IAT + harness? I plan on buying everything and having a tuner w/ a dyno do all the hard work. Just need to make sure what I need.

Sounds about right for the parts needed. Just make sure the one you get can be made to use the Lexus MAF setting, call them to be sure.

I have not had mine tuned. Done it all myself, it's pretty easy. You can use the WOT tracking to set the AFR with boost, works VERY well. But, you need a wide band to use to use that feature, if you don't have one.

KC
 

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I made the mistake of rushing out and getting a bogus narrowband. Should have done my homework, plan on a real one over Dec. Just curious but how much splicing was needed? I see standalone setups and I get chills :eek:mfg:. I am fairly competent with electrical as long as the install procedure is straightforward and clear. I would rather do it myself than paying a tech for labor and dyno pulls. I shall give them a call. Outside the wideband requirement, how much did the entire solution run?
 
Is your narrowband wired up? What'd you connect it to?

The one I bought ages ago does nothing, I think it's faulty.
 
I have not wired it up but it's not quite what we need lol. Narrowand runs off stock o2 sensors and is more of an "on /off" state rather than scanning A/F all the time. I don't know the specifics about why but I know the expensive $300 units are what we need. I REALLY want this wideband/knock unit but it goes for over $700 w/ 2nd sensor but it's badass! Has a full color screen with dual bank active readouts with knock readout. It's pricey but it just looks so clean mounting it in a stock A/C vent opening (exact size).
 
I made the mistake of rushing out and getting a bogus narrowband. Should have done my homework, plan on a real one over Dec. Just curious but how much splicing was needed? I see standalone setups and I get chills :eek:mfg:. I am fairly competent with electrical as long as the install procedure is straightforward and clear. I would rather do it myself than paying a tech for labor and dyno pulls. I shall give them a call. Outside the wideband requirement, how much did the entire solution run?

Wires into the MAF of course. Also rpm and tps signals. Wideband, MAP sensor, and IAT sensor.

I think that's it. Not hard to wire.

KC
 
That doesn't sound that bad, i think i could pull that off. Hey Kc, did you say the MAFpro controller will "self-calibrate" once all wires are installed correctly? Because if so then this is a very straightforward install... 90% wiring and the rest is installing IAT and MAP right?
 

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That doesn't sound that bad, i think i could pull that off. Hey Kc, did you say the MAFpro controller will "self-calibrate" once all wires are installed correctly? Because if so then this is a very straightforward install... 90% wiring and the rest is installing IAT and MAP right?

It doesn't self calibrate. It has the ability to maintain any AFR you want for pretty much any condition.

The Pro version can control idle AFR, cruise AFR, and AFR while boosting. You still need to adjust things here and there but it's not hard.

I am not currently using the idle and cruise AFR control, the stock ECU is doing a pretty good job of it by itself. In order for any of the AFR controls to work properly, the ECU needs to be in open loop. So, if you want to use the idle and cruise AFR features you need to unplug all of your 02 sensors or find some other way to keep the ECU in open loop.

But again, you do need a wideband for the any of the AFR controls to work.

KC
 


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