Procharged 1992 SC400 "Fish bracket setup"

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
thanks for the info, im putting the walbro in this weekend.
im running the R154 manual but good idea i might see if i can space the rear mount up a bit wich will tilt the engine forward but im pretty sure its at the factory angle now, still worth a check before i hack the fish up to suit.
 
Just tested my 9psi pulley last night and its definently faster, but i cannot WOT yet because my FMU blew its diaphram so im stuck in cruise mode until my BLOX FMU is ordered.

lexplay

1 more item you might want to consider is a brace for your belt tensioner. These centri's really put a lot of tq on the tensioner/belt and it acts like a bar-room swing door. As soon as you rev it up or drop a gear, all the slack is put on the belt and its easy to slip or shred a belt. I chewed thru 4 of them my 1st install attempt. I'll post a pic of mine soon to give u some reference. Its just a plate with a nut welded onto it with a threaded bolt that "holds" the tensioner down so it cannot move at all. I am 80% sure the r154 sc300's come stock with these in order to deal with belt slip from dropping 2 gears at a time. Also, if you have not yet shimmed the charger, i would reccomend Gates lifetime serpentine warranty to cover yourself when you trial/error the fitment.
 
I have my 12x24x3" intrercooler from my LS but its in CA so i would need to have it shipped. Anyway I should be home in about 8 weeks and I will most likely install it then. I rarely boost my car for more than a a couple seconds at WOT so if i keep my cool i should be ok for now haha. I did open it up to redline last night (I couldn't wait) and it really is brutal fast. I cant even consider trying that again as my FMU is not installed atm. I also keep telling myself that its going to feel about 2-3psi stonger when I get back to CA as I will be 5000 feet lower! I cant wait for the extra o2
 
I need to figure out why my engine keeps missing. Th plugs are iridium and very clean. The wires/dizzy's/coils are all new. When I swapped from 3.4" pulley to 3.2" pulley I noticed a lot more misses and it just chugs over and over at part throttle on the freeway. If I floor it it goes away until I lay off and then im missing again. under 60mph part throttle and WOT are flawless but everything in between isnt very stable.

Since I just added more air at all rpm's my guess is that im losing boost through the manifold blockoff plate or the TB gasket. Im going to smoke-test the system today.

Update:

Just ordered a set of red OMP 3" 4-point harnesses w/ pads and an NRG harness bar in red as well. I was about to throw a cage in it but its too obvious to the cops when im back in california.
 
I just did a grip of research and I believe my plugs are the issue. I am running stock gap with decent boost. A lot of mustang guys jump down to a .032'' over the .044" stock gap due to the flame front being put out. I swapped these iridiums to a standard .044" gapped copper plug and the problem was worse, not better.
 
Ok im stuck! i need an opinion!


Just re-gapped my plugs down to .032" and now it runs a lot stronger but i still have a real problem.

I accidently cut through a cam sensor wire a while back when I was test fitting everything and i re-soldered it but with an extra bit of wire to gain some extra room. Should I have these wires insulated from RF? The stock jacket has fine steel braided wire as a jacket. I just used speaker wire for the connection... could this be why?
 
You should insulate all wires. Heat shrink tubes work well. Besides gapping the plugs, have you checked the sparkplug wires to see if there're any kinks or twists on them? Bad coils? Bad igniters? I never had to gap the plugs on my car. A bad TPS may cause the issue on idle and other issues.
 
I heat shrinked all the lines but I added a piece of the same gauge speaker line so i could make the conenctions in the crampted space. Is this a no-no? Should I use special auto specific wiring? My wires are not rband new but the engien runs 100% w/o the blower. Im thinking its either a poorly sodlered connection at the Cam sensor wire.... or a leak in my manifold blockoff plate... or a faulty tps. This weekend will be a detective session for sure. It runs absolutely awesome at WOT and 55mph or less wjen im cruising cruising but part throttle cruising is horrible. I have an extra set of OEM cam sensors wo i'll try and swap them out.
 
What a day!

I sprayed my bare metal interior with bed liner and had to temporarily leave the battery loose on the foor. On my way home a new s550 benz pulls out into traffic w/o looking so I lock the wheels and BOOM.. my battery goes flying aross the floor and ripped the main ground off the crimp and the car shut off. Considering my cam sensor was cut already, the car would not idle unless revved to 1500rpm so I had to drive the car home w/ both feet on both pedals and my right hand behind my seat holding the 4 gauge line onto the terminal to keep the car from dying. Meanwhile Pueblo Colorado got a rare late April hail/lighnbing storm while all this went down. Fun stuff!


I dont know how it happened but I must have left the belt off the top idler so it sawed thru half of the cam sensor and now it stumples at all RPM. I think its safe to say that all i need is a cam wirew repair.
 
Just installed a $100 ebay harness bar and a new OMP 3" 4-point harness. I must say these are a 200% increase over my 2" 3 points. I feel like someone put me in a straight jacket as soon as im in. Zero movement whatsoever. I have a pair of black Neoprene harness pads coming next week but overall the entire upgrade was worth it. I also noticed some increased chassis stiffness as well.

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Thanks, im trying to stick to the minimalist approach. Im planning on DD'ing my 91 LS when I get home and then my SC will slowly transform. I feel that I still need a 6-speed swap, an ATS supersilent LSD and a custom spec'd set of gram lights before I will track it.
 
Just deleted my cam sensor middle section and soldered the original 2 ends. After I wrapped the section with aluminum foil, and electrical taped the outside and it made a niticeable improvement. I have solid acceleration with a strong increase in power up to 70mph before it starts missing again. I plan to replace plugs and wires again just to be safe. These iridiums were costly but seemed very clean even after I had a blown. I need to stop and tell myself that this exact same engine miss occured on my LS ehanb I re-used plugs so that could me why...

I dont know if this will help diagnosis any, but the plug electrode/ground are clean yet the ceramic white body of the plugs look burnt brown. Maybe oil staining from the spark tubes? Anyone?
 
replaced plugs with .032" ngk v-powers in heat range 7 = no change. Still chugs hard under cruising. ThALso found that my procharger is loaking oil so I might just go back to N/A until im back home in Aug.
 
Does anyone know if I can relocate my primary o2 sensrs about 6-8 inches further down the exhaust w/o the ECU throwing a fit? My rush headers came with (2) o2 plugs so I can cap off the header bumgs and I plan to cut/grind out the o2 bungs from a set of old manifolds to relocate further down. Right now I am checking off the list of iffy parts of my car. I feel thata my bent o2 that has been jb welded is failed or its loom has melted. Reason i say this is because with these headers there is just barely enough room to plug them in and when you do, the loom rubs theprimaries. I added a Thermo-Tec jacket and even it has melted in places. This leads me to believe the wires may have melted and shorted together.
 
Still having the same issue? Then that's not the sparkplugs. Have you checked the timing? It'll be helpful if you have a wideband A/F to check the actual A/F ratio. Lean or rich condition can give you funny accelleration.

You can extend the O2 wires by soldering and covering them by heat shrink tubes. Make sure the soldered points are good and small with minimal resistance. I extended 3 of my O2 wires up to 2.5 ft with no CEL. That was done before having the AEM EMS.
 
I need to get my wideband wired up. I have had it sitting right next to me loL. Thanks for the tips on extending the o2's, im going to try that tomorrow. Is there any concern with moving the o2's about a foot further down stream?

I know the timing belt is oem from 1992... is there any chance a 20 year old belt can stretch? Causing thrown off timing? Slow speed cruising and WOT is very stable... its in between for some odd reason.

I have soldered/shrink tubed and shielded my cam sensor wires so I KNOW those are solid.



This just hit me on my way home from taking an ASE test:

My procharger has a leaky seal and allows a small amout of oil into the intake at high rpm. Its not a super big deal because the oil is always full but what if its fouling the crap out of my MAF sensor? When my LS was procharged I had the same oil leak but the system was intercooled and I NEVER dsay any oil even close to the maf sensor.
 
I don't see any problem extending the sensor. As long as you solder and seal the contact points, then it should be ok. The timing belt can stretch. You can use a timing light to check it. It could be the fuel issue when it's changed from super lean to super rich condition or vice versa.
 


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