supercar idea

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Anaema

New Member
i have a shitload of specs on a supercar i would like to build(someday in my lifetime) at another forum. i tried to post a direct link, but Firefox still wont let me, to my amazement. so, just go to forzaracin.tz4.com and look for the thread named "revised supercar", it should be shown on the opening page. if not, its in general discussion near the top.
 
is this what you were talking about?

General
Name: Sevara
Engine: 6 Liter V12, 60 Valves
Length: 172 inches
Height: 42.5 inches
Weight: <2600 lbs.
Width: 76.7 inches
Wheelbase: 103.5 inches
Body Style: 2 Door Coupe
Driveline Type: Mid Engine, Rear Wheel Drive

Engine Specs
Type: V12
Displacement: 6 Liters(exactly 6000cc's/366 cubic inches)
Asperation: Natural
Redline: 10000 RPM
HP @ RPM: 600-? @ ?
Torque @ RPM: 500-? @ ?
Block Material: Cast Aluminum and Cast magnesium
Cylinder Head Material: Cast Aluminum
Fuel Delivery: Direct Gasoline Injection
Valve Train: Hydrolically actuated, computer controlled, 5 pull type valves per cylinder
Bore x Stroke: 88mm x 82.2mm
Combustion Chamber: 36 cc's
Piston Dome: -.5 cc's
Compression Ratio: 14.5:1
Maximum Valve Lift: 1.25 inches
Maximum Duration 300 degrees of crank shaft rotation
Intake Path: Air is pulled(pushed at speed) into the dual air boxes positioned over and ahead of the rear wheels, through the air filters, and into the engine intake ducting. Each bank of cylinders has a common plenum with ITB located inside of the air horns. From after the throttle bodies, the air enters the extrude honed, polished cylinder head and into the cylinder. All intake parts except the throttle bodies are made form Carbon Fiber, throttle bodies are cast magnesium.
Exhaust Path: Exhaust gasses exit from the cylinder head and into a tuned, equal length 6-2 titanium headers w/ 1.5" piping. From the headers the spent gasses enter a 3" full titanium exhaust system(for each 3 cylinders), a 3" high flow catalytic converter(for each exhaust pipe), and a high flow muffler(each exhaust pipe) and exit the vehicle in quad pipes located above the spillter/spoiler.
Sump Type: Dry Sump w/ oil cooler and tri-pumps
Notes: Engine is a V12 with siamesed, cast titanium cylinder walls. Pistons are thin wall steel and connecting rods are forged titanium(H-beam). Crank is forged titanium. Intake and exhaust valves are titanuim. Engine uses no head gaskets, just compression rings.
Weight: 540 lbs

Cooling Specs
Engine Radiator: 55mm thick Aluminum Racing Radiator w/ 20 PSI Raditaor Cap
Thermostat: 160 Degree thermostat
Raditator Fans: Dual, electric 3500 cfm pull fans w/ shrouding
Engine Oil Cooler: 20 mm thick
Trans Oil Cooler: 20 mm thick
Weight: included w/ Engine

Suspension Specs
Front Type: Double A-arm layout with hydrolic pushrods(ride height adjustment) and adjustable coil-overs.
Rear Type: Double A-arm layout with hydrolic pushrod(ride height adjustment) and adjustable coil-overs.
A-arm Material: Hollow Forged Magnesium surrounded by Carbon Fiber
Wheelbase: 103.5 inches
Weight: 150 lbs

Brake Specs
Front Brakes: 15.5 inch ceramic composite brakes w/ 8 piston, fixed, monoblock calipers
Rear Brakes: 15.5 inch ceramic composite brakes w/ 6 piston, fixed, monoblock calipers
Weight: 80 lbs

Trans-axle and Differntial Specs
Trans Type: 7-Speed SMG, trans-axle
Clutch Type: Triple Carbon/Carbon Dry Clutch
Gear Type: Constant Mesh Dog Tooth
Transmission Case Material: Cast Aluminum
Gear Material: Forged Titanium
Differential Type: Electronic LSD w/ Individual Wheel Speed Control
Axles: Carbon Fiber w/ high strength U-joints.
Weight: 550 lbs
Shift Method: Sequantial Shift Lever, not uncommon to those used in ALMS GT1 class racecars.

Body Construction
Front fenders, hood, and front facia are made up of Carbon Fiber. Radiator cradle is Carbon Fiber. Rear clip is Carbon Fiber. Deck lid and Wheel Wells are Carbon Fiber. Roof is carbon fiber.
Weight: 110 lbs

Aerodynamics
Front Downforce: 250-350 lbs @ 60 MPH
Rear Downforce: 350-500 lbs @ 60 MPH
Front Downforce Devices: Brake Ducting, Rear Radiator Ducting, Front Splitter, Front Under Body Venturi, Radiator Access Panel.
Rear Downforce Devices: Intake Ducting, Brake Ducting, Rear Double Spoiler, Rear Diffuser and Under Body Spoiler, Rear Under Body Venturi, Mid Under Body Venturi.

Frame Construction
Frame consists of Carbon Fiber/Aluminum Honeycomb. This frame surrounds all of the engine and transmission and is connected to the Carbon Fiber Tub.
Weight: 350 lbs

Safety Specs
Seat Belts: 3-point belts for driver and passanger.
Airbags: Front driver and passanger airbags. dual side airbags.
Assists: TCS, and ABS
Roof arches are made from Carbon Fiber and Titanium-Aluminum Honey Comb for rollover protection and weight savings. Roof is made of Carbon Fiber.
Weight: Included w/ Interior

Interior
Seats: Carbon Fiber framed suspension seats covered in Leather. Manual adjustability.
Dash: Leather Covered Carbon Fiber with Glove Box
Instruments: Center: Tachometer, Speedometer, HP; Left of the Steering: Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Engine Oil Temp; Right of the Steering: Transmition Oil Temp, Fuel Level, G rating(accel, decel, and lateral G's)
AC and Heat: Climate control
Steering Wheel: Leather covered Carbon Fiber. Adjustable by tilt and telescope.
Center Console: Leather covered Carbon Fiber w/ Sequential Shift Lever at the right(or left) of the steering wheel.
Trim: Brushed Aluminum
Weight: 250 lbs

Rims and Tires
Construction: Forged Magnesium, 8-spoke.
Front Rims: 285/35-19
Rear Rims: 345/35-20
Weight: 80 lbs

Engine and Chassis Management Specs
Engine Management: Single processor; handles ignition timing, fuel injectors, valve timing, sensors, trottle control, transmission control, and differential control.
Chassis Management: Single processor; handles ABS, Traction Control, and suspension adjustments.



ive been rethinking alot of the specs on this... you could call it a dream car if you want . i also rethought the valve system i thought up a few months ago, and revised it for pull type valves instead of poppet type valves. ill post more on that too.


notes: the car is meant to run on alcohol fuels only. due to the high compression ratio, and for HP reasons

what V12 are you planning to use?
do you have plans?
do you have about a cool $mil to play with?

there's some pretty exotic sh1t in there....
 
lol. yup, thats the one. nearly every piece of that car would be carbon fiber, the body, the frame, all of it. excepth the engine of course. my imagination has no bounds when it comes to cars. it would be a demon if i could build it... but im only 15, and well, i dont have a million. but even then, it would take far more than 1 mill to design and develope this car. and who said i would use an existing V12? (hint hint). there would be no steel in that car AT ALL!! none. its either aluminum, magnesium, titanium, or carbon fiber. it would be loud, and it would be fast. so fast it would scare people. imagine a racing version with no mufflers and no emisions equipment
mischievous.gif
. oh ya, and exotic. like the 15.5 inch carbon-composite brakes? the hydrolic valve system? the carbon fiber A-arms? the absence of steel and iron alloys? the pushrod suspension? oh wait a minute! steel pistons, almost forgot.


damnit, there are still some typos in there. its like i cant excape them!!
 
considering your age and the budget constraints that would come with that - i would steer into something a little more "off the shelf".

try using chromoly tube for the space frame, replacement vented discs and calipers from a factory motor vehicle, try using an Miata rear clip for the IRS diff and alum mounts / brakes.

power it with a 1UZFE to keep it cheap and powerful and teched up.

you should build a mould of the body you wish to use, 1:1 scale out of wood, bog (filler) and fibreglass and when you have a shape you're happy with then make the panels out fibreglass by laying strips over the car to form panels. do you have any idea how EXPENSIVE carbon fibre is?

steel out the fibreglass (using 1in square tube) to reinforce the panels and you're about a thirdof the way there.

i suggest you check out some hot-rodding websites like www.ozrodders.com for example and check out the construction sections.

i mean, it's okay to dream but i have no time for dreaming. i'd rather put my energy into MAKING something i can drive rather than dreaming about what i'd build if i won the lottery.

but hey - it's your fantasy right?!?!

:)
 
its just a dream.... would be a damn sweet car though. and besides, im 15. i wouldnt even have the money to build what your talking about.
 
Bore x Stroke: 88mm x 82.2mm
FYI, that equates to 5604cc or 341.6ci.

6000cc (365.7ci) on that Bore would be 85.0545mm stroke
On the 82.2mm Stroke the Bore would be 94.219mm to give 6000cc
 
why keep it a dream though?

why not make it a reality?

you may have hidden talents that could put you up there with Enzo Ferarri and Bertonni etc etc. you may find after you make it you get asked to make another and another and another!

check out www.carbontech.com.au

do you have a shed? if so, get to work!!!
 
15 Anaema, why your just a kid, cool....that is not a restriction that is a great age to start.... I wish I was 15 again, I am now 37 and getting a little grey hair....but I still got that youthful spirit and the body is still holding up, thank god....

Dream on nothing wrong with that!!!!!!!
 
pro240c said:
well, that kind of attitude will get you nowhere quick...

so planning to build something cool when im older, even though im only 15, is an attitude that will get me nowhere fast? that makes no sense.
 
no what they are saying is to start now, dont wait. if you have the attitude that you are to young to start then its not going to get you anywhere. You are never to young to start.

I started learning and working on cars when I was 6years old. I assembled my first motor when I was only 8, well did everything that I was physically strong enough to do. obviously I couldn't lift the heads on to the motor of torque all of the bolts to spec, but I did what I could.

Point is, you are almost never to young to start.

Do it, research all that you can and learn and start.
 
I rebuilt my first small block Chevy at 16, then quit cars completely at the age of 25, got to busy running business and trying to make money...and had no extra time. Now I just got back into these cars about a year and a half ago. I am truley amazed at the technology advancement since. I still get a little lost at times....but learning fast and have a pashion for it once again like I did when I was 16, that is the key....and I am having a blast.
 
cjsupra90 said:
no what they are saying is to start now, dont wait. if you have the attitude that you are to young to start then its not going to get you anywhere. You are never to young to start.

I started learning and working on cars when I was 6years old. I assembled my first motor when I was only 8, well did everything that I was physically strong enough to do. obviously I couldn't lift the heads on to the motor of torque all of the bolts to spec, but I did what I could.

Point is, you are almost never to young to start.

Do it, research all that you can and learn and start.
oh, well if thats what you means, then im planning on buying a old VW beetle and turning it into a baja bug. or possibly a 240Z and modifying one of those. ive got an old truck im selling for 1500$, and that should get me started.
 
nice
id add some kevlar to the tub for a bit of toughness. and maybe two turbos. that would be cool. if you're gonna dream, it may as well have four figure power (in kw, at the wheels!). with some hard work you could be driving this in a decade (or two).
 


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