S14 1uz with itbs on e85

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

B rad

New Member
Messages
4
Location
Philly, PA
Started building this march of this year.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hWXmZBoVjg
First start up
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrLjOS9s6Fk
First test day with the car.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0P35uVyrxk
Took it to the drag strip ten minutes from my house ran a 12.90 at 106 with a 1.8 60 foot.

More about the car. It weighs 2525lbs with a full fuel cell which I was very pleased with. Engine wise its a stock 95 1uz with obx itbs and custom built headers. I having it running on a haltech p1000 with a racepak iq3. The engine is running on e85 and put down 260rwhp and 260 tq on my dynojet dyno. Looking to get it around 400hp na.
 
Hey mate, looking good and I love the sound! Did you have much trouble with clearances getting the engine (like the steering, clutch masterm, exhause etc)?

I noticed you said that you used the OBX ITB's, did you have much trouble with the fittment/quality?
 
The left side header was a huge pain in the ass, cylinder 7 comes out straight at the steering shaft so I had to do several pie cuts to get around that problem. I'm running a 350z trans, the guy I bought the kit from had no idea what he was doing and nothing fit right. I'm running the mr2 flywheel and pp with a 350z disc from spec. The trans is internal slave so I had to make a spacer for behind the slave as the 350z pp is much higher compared to the mr2 pp. The only other clearance problem I had was the ITBs hit the hood so I had to cut a hole in the hood.

As far as the ITBs they needed some massaging done to the manifolds obx casts. The runners were a lumpy casting so I polished them and the front and rear mounting surfaces had to be shaved a bit to actually fit a nut on the stud. As far as the throttles themselves they work great I just have to run a big throttle return spring or it wont snap back fully. As far as fab goes you have to modify or make custom fuel rails and a throttle cable bracket. Also the tps off the 1uz doesnt work because the throttles try to spin it backwards so I ended up using a sr20 tps as it was the only tps I could find that spun counterclockwise.
 
The clearence issues sound very similar to what I faced when installing the 1uz into my 280zx... Would love to see some pics of the headers if you've got them. I've heard good and bad things about the 350z boxes, some people seem to say they are a really smooth shifting box and can take a lot of punishment, while other say they are a bit fragile... Have you had any other experience with them on what sort of torque they will take?

It seems most of the people that have bought the OBX throttles have had issues with the quality of the castings, but for the price they seem pretty hard to beat. I'll have to remember the SR20 tps if I end up going for a set.
 
The clearence issues sound very similar to what I faced when installing the 1uz into my 280zx... Would love to see some pics of the headers if you've got them. I've heard good and bad things about the 350z boxes, some people seem to say they are a really smooth shifting box and can take a lot of punishment, while other say they are a bit fragile... Have you had any other experience with them on what sort of torque they will take?

It seems most of the people that have bought the OBX throttles have had issues with the quality of the castings, but for the price they seem pretty hard to beat. I'll have to remember the SR20 tps if I end up going for a set.

My car I had last season was a s13 with a 500 horse Sr20 with the Z box behind it and it was probably the best thing I could have ever done to a SR. The only complaint I have about these boxes is they are noisy which is why a lot of them are replaced at the dealer. The one I currently have in the s14 is noisy as hell at idle it sounds like the engine is knocking because it makes so much noise. It shifts great though and so far I've had no issues. I know of a few people making around 600hp 500ftlbs with stock boxes still without any problems.
a liberal cnc port job + cams + higher redline + tune should put you around 400.
Now I just have to figure out where to get the head work done and what cams to go with.
 
Now I just have to figure out where to get the head work done and what cams to go with.

If your planning to rev higher than 7k, regrinds become a problem with the stock shim over bucket. They tend to flick out easily. Since the UZ can take up 10,000rpm w/ the right valvetrain, a set of billet Kelford cams would be the better fit. They offer a few profiles as well. Stiffer valve springs are also going to be needed. Stock springs have a weak 42lb seat.
 
If your planning to rev higher than 7k, regrinds become a problem with the stock shim over bucket. They tend to flick out easily. Since the UZ can take up 10,000rpm w/ the right valvetrain, a set of billet Kelford cams would be the better fit. They offer a few profiles as well. Stiffer valve springs are also going to be needed. Stock springs have a weak 42lb seat.

I'm already reving to 7500 but regrinds are out of the question, I just hate the wait time on the kelfords. I was looking at their 290's and doing their shim underbucket setup.
 


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