RE: NEW BOY - BIG Project :>

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

neeltec.co.uk

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England
Hi Guys!

This forum makes interesting reading!

Got a future project idea that involves a v8 lump. Being a thoroughbread Toyota car modder for the past 4 years, I thought that the only reliable lump I can think of is a toyota v8 variant (know I'm lead to belive the one I want is from a 1uzfe lump?)

Straight to thee point: Project Celica GT4

Now, someone has already done this conversion, but not in England!!
My quest is to build a Toyota Celica GT4 (ST185 model) with:
1. a V8 lump
2. Must be manual gears
3. Aim to have at least 400-450bhp &
4. *all this from an N/A engine.
5. we have extensive knowledge with Motec ECU's & was planning to use the M800 for optimum performance.

Is the above possible?

Please... ANY ideas or suggestions welcome as I've NEVER taken a project on like this b4. (not saying I cant deliver though!!) *Also, from the info I've read on here, wud it be benefical to upgrade to a TT turbo or supercharger on a bearing of per £ per buck so-to-speak or keep to an NA engine?
 
Awww com'on guys, 22 views and no reply's?
icon_cry.gif
 
Very ambitious project with very ambitious goals. I think the only way you're going to get those power levels out of an N/A 1UZ is with nitrous, or camming it to the max, and wrapping it to 10,000 RPM. Either way, I think you're going to wind up with something that's a handful on the street.

Supercharging ought to be a lot easier and cheaper than the above, and without intercooling, at low boost it still should produce nice gains. With it being a V configuration engine, supercharging is a clean solution, and it results in a very streetable motor.

Turboing the V configuration involves lots of plumbing, but some here are doing it in the quest to be the first to pull 1000 BHP out of the 1UZ. Streetable? Can you spell DYNO QUEEN?!!!

Some of us (ahem) are watching these pioneers to see what breaks and what works.....

John
 
Well you are beating uas at Cricket so you just need to learn to wait!
*** LOL *** well, someone has to teach you guys how to play cricket!!

So 400+ horses outta the 1uz lump is far too pricey to build in N/A form. OK then guys, someone please tell me the cheapest (not cutting corners though) why of getting a street reliable 400-450 bhp 1uz lump.

I DO love the idea of a supercharger though!!

Also, wot car can I get a manual 'box outta from that mates to the 1uz?

Thanks for the replies guys!!
 
400hp is readilly available with an Eaton M90 or M112 and decent exhaust.

If you can intercool it you can get more out of it.

The best option is dropped compression, supercharger, cams and exhaust.

A bit of head work (just a tidy up) would help.

According to a simulator my engine should make 605flywheel hp and have over 500lbft of torque starting around 2,000rpm. Very drivable.

For the manual use an Australian adaptor (CRS or Dellow) and the Toyota box of your choice. This is usually dictated by finances and availability.
 
Hiya Zuffen

Thanks for your reply. I'll be using a Motec M800 ECU & custom stainless exhaust - I'd like to go 4" straight through if I cud. Head work is on the cards as with a decent airfiltration system (probably a closed carbon box affair).

So an Eaton supercharger is good. I gather the difference between the M90 & M112 models is horsepower differences - by how much? Also, yes, I'd be fitting a custom FMIC too, just to keep things cool.

If I then added a set of ROSS pistons, with the above parts, wud this be knocking on the doors of 500hp? Traction wouldn't be too much of a problem as I'd be running a 300 - 320 section rear tyre anywayz!!

Cheers for the info guys! ;->
 
There is a guy here in new zealand getting 460hp out of a 1uz-fe in a Toyota SR coupe. From what he says, its an early model 1uz from a crown with headers and a pod filter running through a Link V5 ECU....however its tuned to within an inch of its life so reliability would be an issue.

W5* series boxes are probably most common and easiest to find adaptors for, but if price isnt an option the R154 is stronger and would handle the hp better.
 
You didn't say whether you plan to keep 4WD, or make it RWD.


400-450hp NA can be done without even trying.
(AUD figures)
$2000 for ECU and tuning
$2000 for extractors and exhaust
$2000 for ITBs
$2000 for cams (without doing shim under bucket conversion)
$2000 for manual conversion.

That will net you minimum 360-380hp.

Add another $1000-$1500 for shim under bucket conversion, so you can get an extra 2-3mm lift, and you'll net another 50+hp at a guess.

Another $2000 for custom hicomp pistons, and a bit of bottom end tidying up, and you'll probably get another 50+hp, if not more.
 
Neeltec,

The M90 will run out of steam at the top end if you gear it to give decent bottom end boost. The M112 will give nice lowend boost and plenty up top. Visit the Eaton Website for some interesting flow figures.

Any intercooler would need to be a water to air under the blower (in the valley) with a front mounted radiator. If you PM me your email address I can forward photos of my almost finished intercooled manifold.

Kelford have cams ground for supercharing that will net you quite a bit of power.

500hp should be easy with the right parts. The Ross low comp pistons were a group buy so aren't available at the discounted price we all paid.
 
Peewee said:
You didn't say whether you plan to keep 4WD, or make it RWD.


400-450hp NA can be done without even trying.
(AUD figures)
$2000 for ECU and tuning
$2000 for extractors and exhaust
$2000 for ITBs
$2000 for cams (without doing shim under bucket conversion)
$2000 for manual conversion.

That will net you minimum 360-380hp.

Add another $1000-$1500 for shim under bucket conversion, so you can get an extra 2-3mm lift, and you'll net another 50+hp at a guess.

Another $2000 for custom hicomp pistons, and a bit of bottom end tidying up, and you'll probably get another 50+hp, if not more.
I like that setup. Actually, that's what I wanted to do. I want to get an S13 chassis and throw in a 1UZ, with 13:1 compression ratio, cams, and ITB's. I figured if I could make 400 to the wheels, it would totally be worth it. I'm sure I could bore it a little or use a 3UZ bottom end, but I'd like to do it with only 4 liters. :)
 
I seriously believe 400rwhp is not that much to ask.
How streetable it will be however, is a different question.
But I'm not building a daily driver, so what do I care.

3UZ bottom end would be nice, extra free 30Nm of torque wouldn't go astray, but maybe the extra rotational weight would be counterproductive
 
Yeah, after watching a vid of a 4.9L SC400, it kind of makes me want to up the displacement a bit. I just don't want the engine note to get confused for something domestic.

I will be making this a daily driver but I put up with A LOT from my cars. The cars I drive every day are typically cars that very few people would want to drive every day.
 
You didn't say whether you plan to keep 4WD, or make it RWD.
Sorry, shud of said this at the begining. It's gonna be rwd as to make it awd will cost too much.

Now I've got the N/A version of cost per bhp level, can I make this power CHEAPER using a blower or a pair of turbos? £12k seems a little much to spend on an NA engine. If any of you guys were on a budget, how wud you get around 450hp? NA or blower / turbo?

The reason why I said NA initially is I thought these engines 'might' be easier to tune and cost less, but obviously not!!

cheers for the replies guys!
 
Oh... just thought, those prices are they AUS dollars?? if so that's £12,000 AUS dollars = UK sterling £5k. Hmmm, not so expensive after all for an NA engine, speshly if I'm gonna be knocking on the doors of 500hp!!

How reliable wud this be?
 
neeltec
you could run a single garret gt40, if theres enough room to run the exhaust piping from both sides to the one turbo. it would make it easier if intercooled, as with one turbo, theres only one airfilter, one wastegate, one flowpath, and keep the original plenum setup to save dollars there.
the total cost would be similar to a fully worked na engine as per above, but with more potential for further gains up the track, ie, bigger injectors, pistons, more boost, etc, = big hp.
 
There is 2 options when it comes to forced induction.

Do it with something small, that is at about 80-90% capacity to acheive your power.

Or do it with sometihng bigger, that is only at about 50% capacity.


By this I mean do it with a pair of turbos from a 2.0L, and push them hard.
Or do it with a pair of turbos made for a 3.0L, and take them easy.

As long as you don't decompress too far, you wont lose the off boost torque of 4.0L
Inwhich case lag is not going to be a huge issue.
 


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