Progress on 1UZFE > RA65 swap

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Al,

It sure was a ton of work in a very short amount of time. I took about 2 weeks between work and familly time to plan out every thing I had to do. I made a check list and diagrams of everything I could think of. If it was not for that organization, it would have been impossible to pull off. The fact I was also in a very well equipped shop and had nice weather in the 70's the whole time too also helped alot. Charlie (the shop owner) is a great friend and a huge help. I talked with him again today and he already has the "Y" pipe done and has it plumbed into the existing DynoMax Ultra Flow muffler from the turbo motor. I wish I could hear what it sounds like. With open headers, it was just radical. I have never heard a motor roar like that except at a drag strip. Even prepared class cars at an auto cross don't have that deep of a growl.

The left side CAT location is the stock Celica position and the right side CAT is in the stock Supra position. I really didn't have any choice to move them as there is not enough room under the floor. Even in the proper CAT locations they are pretty close to being the lowest point on the car. To try and keep the smog nazi's happy, I will also wrap the pipes from the manifolds to the cats with the ThermoTec to help keep the exhaust hot and light the cats off faster. I tried to locate them closer, but it just would not fit. I hope the Lexus CATs are in good sape as they are better flowing than the CatCo ones I was going to use, they are basically free since they came with my motor, and they are shorter in length making the bends fit easier. The only bad side is if they are not working fine, it may be tough to fit CatCo's later due to the length.

Gary M.
 
Mine is the coupe Gary and is lighter than the hatch backs. Tare weight is 1170kg x 2.2 = 2574lbs with the 22RE in it ( I currently have an 18RGEU in it so its lighter again) I believe the 22RE's weigh about the same as a 1UZ. So does yours weigh 2800lbs with the 1UZ in it?

so @ 1170kg x 3.0 (as per the new DOTARS rules) max capacity for forced induction is only 3510cc's grrrr. I'm only hoping there is some way I can get around it based off the NSW rules of 4.0x and whether I can get someone to engineer it with the 1UZ with twin turbos.

Did you end up making another set of engine mounts? If so I wouldn't mind seeing some pics of them and also your header clearing the steering because we will run into the same problem on the right hand side.

Cheers
Dunks
 
I have not had it on a scale yet with the V8, but I will as soon as I get a chance. Mine is also a coupe RA65C, I picked it for the lighter weight as well. It has full interior and a sopund system as well as chassis braces and the coil over suspension. Last time I raced it with the turbo motor and the extra equipment it needed, in impound it was 2750 pounds ready to race with a full tank of gas. My turbo system was quite heavy with a cast iron manifold and schedule 40 pipe bends getting the exhaust back up to the turbo mounted high and in front, basically where the 22RE distributor would be. My huge oil cooler and big intercooler were also way out front. With that setup, the car was 1.5% nose heavy, and just over 1% left heavy with me in the left side drivers seat. I can't wait to see how it balances out with the V8 now. My very stiff front suspension almost looks like it may be riding a tick higher, so it may very well be lighter now. Even if it is more, as long as it is less than 100 pounds more, I don't care.

I will try to post the manifold pic, but it is not letting me add it in this post.

Gary M.
 
I have not touched my car since my last post, but some work has happened. The whole exhaust system is done. Charlie says you can barely even hear it idle with the cats and DynoMax UltraFlow muffler on it. It starts very easy, but he has to keep his foot on the gas to keep it running for the forst few seconds. Then if he lets it up real slow it will stay running, but at barely over 400 rpm. Once warmed up it rasies up to 600 - 650 rpm and is very smooth. I wonder if the idle speed control stepper motor is frozen. It is not setting any codes yet.

On a better note, I just go paid for a side job and I am hoping to spend some of the money on yet another trip back to see (and work on) my car. I don't know when it is going to happen yet, but it will probably be a whole familly trip, so it will take more planning to pull it off. If all goes well, I should get the car closed up nice (hide the ECU wiring mess) take it through emissions testing, and get the plates and all back legal for street driving. If the weather is nice, (November in Chicago, HA HA) I might take it for some test runs. I don't trust the drive shaft so if it vibrates at all, I will not push it, but if it feels good, I can at least do 0-60 runs. With the turbo 22RE and W58 5-speed, I could knock off 5 second flat runs, but it was tricky to nail the launch and the shift. With the A341E auto trans, and no lag V8 power, it will be far easier to get the full potential. I am about 50 hp short of hat the turbo motor could do, but the V8 will do it's job any time without the tempermental nature of my beast motor. Doing basic math, I am figuring on 0-60 in about 5.5 seconds with the motor and trans all stock. The 93 LS-400 did 0-60 in 7.3 seconds, and weighed over 3600 pounds. I should weigh just 2800 pounds now (estimating a 50 pound increase). Force = mass x acceleration. With the force being fixed, the reduced mass should be offset by the same ratio increase in acceleration. And I am running lower gears, so I will actually have more force pushing the car. I also hope to get it on scales to check my balance and total weight. With the 22RE turbo motor it came in at 2750 pounds without a driver, with 51.5% on the front and 48.5% on the rear. With a driver it was 51% left heavy. I can wait to see these numbers with the 1UZ in there.

Gary M.
 
i am looking forward to hearing the performance result.
i never thought an LS400 would do under 7secs to 60mph,
it should be great.
oh yeah, i also cant belieive how quiet idling they are even with a straight through muffler.
thanks for the update
Dean.
 
The only update I have is that the state of Illinois is sending me all the forms needed to make it legal for the road again. Then I have to save up for a trip from LA back to Chicago to clean up the install a bit more and make it road worthy. Then I should be able to do some testing and make a list of the thousand little things I have to do from there.

Being 2500 miles away from my car really SUCKS!!
 
Sorry I dodn't see your question sooner. I have been busy with other projects, and I didn't get the notice e-mail I usually get from this site.

As for your question, the RA-64 is a live rear axle, right? This will add a little complexity as you need a slip yoke in the trans for the rear suspension to work. The Lexus rubber doughnut won't work. There are a few articles with tnhe work needed to conver tthe Lexus auto tranny to take a slip yoke, but it is a big job. Getting a whole auto box out of a 2x4 pickup with the V8 may be easier, but you would have to get the wiring diagrams to make sure all the needed plugs are the same or adaptable. If you want to run a manual trans, good luck with the smog inspection in Cali. The engine ECU is directly tied into the trans and if it sets a code you will fail smog. Some say you can just tel the ECU it is in neutral all the time and it works, but I have not tested it. I am also planing on using a front drive shaft from a pickup with an adapter plate for my car. This will make it use a cross pin type u-joint at the motor with a telescoping section in the drive shaft itself. This may also work for your live axle setup if done carefully to get the angles and travel in range. Mine only needs to telescope an inch or so for installation and then to allow for a little body flex. Right now it is just using the lexus rubber doughnut. It works, but it is way too stiff and not aligned good enough to last very long.

Besides the drive shaft issue, the driver's side exhaust manifold requires a fairly extensive mod to clear the steering shaft. Mine was cut and re-welded by an artist. It clears, but I must run very stiff motor mounts so it does not hit. Right now they are solid, but it vibrates the crap out of the car under load.

Wiring up the factory Lexus ECU was not too bad at all. I had to research both the original Celica manuals and the Lexus manuals to find all the compatible body signals, but I got it together and so far everything works with no codes. I used an auto shifter from an 83 Celica, the linkage hooked up with a new rod between the shifter and trans with perfect detent alignment. I needed a relay to reverse the overdrive button logic. I also used a late 80's Camry Power/Norm button for the trans pattern select. It fit perfectly in one of the holes in the console where a sun roof button or coin holder go. And the logic was even the right direction. I still don't have oil pressure or temp gauges working. They should, but I can't find the gauge wires in the car. I think they got ripped out when the 4 banger was pulled.

It is a big job, but it looks factory and runs great. I just wish I could get it out to Cali to drive it. It is still garaged in Chicago.
 
I really admire what you have done. I really look forward to seeing the final product. I am going to try my best to get the W58 to work here. I plan on changing out the rear end anyway. Not sure if the GT-S is a two-piece driveshaft stock. GT is. Anyhow, hopefully the driveshaft will be the least of my problems. My biggest problem is finding someone with the knowhow to do all of this. I know 1 person, he is Tim Duncan from DMZ (off road race fab shop) in Norco, CA. He's a great guy and I believe that he is fully capable. Only thing is that I can tell that he's more interested in modifying my 2006 Tacoma rather than my Celica. As far as the ECU goes, is it possible to get the GS400 ECU to work with the LS400 motor/wire harness?

BTW: I know what solid mounts are like. I had these on my '94 pickup:
http://www.chaosfab.com/product/accessories/toy2wd/92400.jpg
 
Do you think it's possible to keep the W58 in stock location? Or am I going to need to move it back/forward? Or is this something a custom bell housing can fix?
 
The actual length of the engine block on the 1UZ is very close to the 22RE. So with careful design of the motor mounts, you should be able to keep the trans in the stock location. The new bell housing needed may alter the length a little, but it can't really change it much due to the relationship of the trans input shatf and the pilot bearing in the crank. You may have to do some hunting to be sure you get the corect bearing too. The 1UZ's have a bored hole in the end of the crank which the torque convertor centers into. You just need to find a earing withthe right O.D. and the I.D. to match the cank and trans input shaft. The speed and loading are not very high so it does not to be a super bearing. If you look around this site, thee are a bunch of threads about putting a manual behind the 1UZ engine. I remember there being 2 Australian shops that made the bell housings and flywheels needed.

All RA-6X Celicas used the 2 piece drive shaft. It is pretty silly on the IRS RA-65's as the drive shaft does not need to move except for some chassis flex. When I am done, I will just have a safety hoop in pklace of the center bearing.

You should try to use the ECU for the model and yea of the motor. There were running changes over the years, and the GS got updates before the LS did. The GS got the VVTi on the 1UZ 4.0L while the LS still had fixed cam timing. There were a few more subtle changes as well. In the LS400, which only had one engine available, the engine wiring harness was mostly separate from the body control harness. I only had to splice about 15 wires to make it fire up and run. I tied in a few more wires to make the auto shifter O.D. button and light work as well as the pwr/norm pattern switch. The "kick down" switch is still hanging free. It literally went under the gas pedal of the LS to command a down shift when you presed the pedal to the floor. I am not sure how I will deal with that yet. It could be a fun tuning option to trigger it as needed for racing.

The other wires I had to tie in were the backup lights and starter wiring. I ended up adding a 5 fuse panel. 2 from Batt. 2 from EFI main, and the last one for the crank signal to the starter. The solonion pulls so much power, they use a 30 amp relay between the key and the starter. I did it the same way. The stock 83 Celica EFI main relay powers up the ECU ignition terminal. The ECU then ouputs an EFI pwr rly signal. This feed yet another relay that powers up the igniters, injectors, fuel pump ECU, Idle motor, EGR valve, air flow meter.... The list goes on and on. The EFI power is much more than the 22RE needed. I am sure glad I used heavy wiring and 30 amp relays for everything. So in total, I added a bank of 3 relays and the fuse panel.
 
Well, I am not the first.

I saw one on this site when my turbo motor was in pieces.

I am taking a trip back to Chicago for work and I am hoping to take it for a drive. I will bring a camera and take some pics and video of it while I am there. I really need to make a list of the things that need to be done. I have one day there that I don't have to work, YEAH!!

Gary
 
Gary, thats awesome! Get plenty of pics and videos for me! haha The more I have to show the fabricator the better. I wanna hear your beast too haha keep in touch
 
1uze in ra65 /61

Hi im going to be starting my trans plant in the next 2 weeks im really happy for you as you have got so far and you are how may mile from the car it would drive me crazy ill post some pics when i start any tips on engine and gear box mounts / rubbers thanks .
 
That would be a perfect time to U-Haul her back on a dolly......You can make it back by Sunday if you leave Chicago Friday. One way PU truck with a dolly can't be too bad and more importantly save you at least one more trip back in the future.
 
The good news and the bad news.

Good news
1) I DROVE THE CAR!! almost 2 miles this time.

Bad news
1) I had to work every day leading up to this trip. I didn't even get a camera into my bags, Sorry no pics, let alone video.
2) The front tires and the battery were flat. The tires held air, but the battery would not take any charge. There must be an open cell in it.
3) A borrowed battery had it fire up on the first twist of the key!! but the idle control motor is still dead, so I need to keep a foot on the gas to keep it running. Once warmed though, it held a solid 600 rpm idle. The exhaust sounds nice, but it was not a 4 banger or a V8 sound, it was quiet at idle, with jst a little rasp when revved.

Time for a short drive.

Good news
2) Trans shifted into gear, and it drove with no hickups.
Bad news
4) I don't trust the motor mounts, took it very easy.
5) after about a mile, I see a little smoke/vapor coming from under the car. I think it is just a little oil on the cat, and they are lighting off.
6) I get a little more darring and push it to 1/2 throttle. It revs up to 3000+ rpm and it pulls okay, like a stock 22RE.
7) smoke is getting heavier, head back to the garage carefully.
Good news
3) Smoke is just off of the exhausts, but they are way hot.
Bad news
8) IT'S RUNNING ON FOUR CYLINDERS!!

I think it is an ignition problem. It is even firing, but only one dizzy. I remembered that my friend that took it through the emissions test said it started missing when he was parking it. The ECU didn't set any error code yet. Check Engine [CE] light is working, but no codes. If it was an igniter, it should set a loss of IGF but it has not. SO the igniter is probably working, it could be a cap/rotor/coil, whatever in one of the two ignition systems. I don't think it is fuel because the high exhaust temp screams of raw fuel going out the exhaust into the cats being heated by the other cylinders.

Good new
4) If it runs like this on just 1/2 the motor, it will certainly be fun on all 8.

I really wish I had a few more days here, but I get on a plane to Minneapolis in the morning. I have no diagnostic tools with me, so all I could do was chekc the codes. I should have checked for spark, but I didn't even have a good setup for doing that. I took all of my good tools to Cali, my mother's garage is more of a gardening shed now.

Good news
5) Even on half the motor, it fired in a blink over and over. It seems to start with less than a full revolution of the crank and it is amazingly smooth with solid motor mounts and only 4 cylinders firing.

The bad news out weighs the good news this time around. I did get to drive it around, and it was like seeing an old friend. I still love the seating position and the totally connected feeling in that car. My coil over suspension is so firm after driving a Camry for 6 years, but it is not harsh, just direct. The steering is so immediate, it is hard to explain. Front drive and even AWD cars have that... steering mass feeling where you know you are turning more than you need to. With no rubber in my front suspension and no drive shafts connected to the wheels, the car just follows your every move of the steering wheel. The front end does need to be re-aligned since the motor swap though. The total lack of any body lean also makes the car feel like nothing else legal to drive on the road.

As much as I wanted to fix it and drive it more, I just had no time. I had to rush back to work. I sure hope I didn't fry anything running it for 2 miles with 4 cylindes of raw fuel goign into the cats. The exhaust temps went through the roof.

I talked with another one of my buddies, and he offered yet again to maybe tow it out for me in the near future. We did some math, and if I pay his gas one way, AND he finds a car he wants to buy out in Cali to tow back for himself, it could be a go this summer. I will keep you all posted.

Sorry again about the lack of pics. I had no sleep leading up to this trip. I like getting paid over time, but I also like sleeping and seeing my familly.

Gary M.
 


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