Making the car faster with out hp gains?

[lowboost]

you know a few days back we were talking about NOS, well I will spray a 100 shot at least. I've got headers, and full exhaust (not yet knowing how its gonna look), intake and cone element, light weight flywheel, spec stage 3 clutch (6 puck), TRD oil cap & Radiator cap (LOL). Heck I dont know what it will run.

Does anyone know what one of these early model 92 to 95 SC400's dyno totally stock trans with header, intake, and exhaust? Jibby can you dyno your car on spray? I would be really interested in knowing what to expect myself.

Jeff

 

[Anaema]

What I don't get is how is an alluminum driveshaft as strong or stronger then the stock steel driveshaft? I know that steel is stronger then alluminum so how can this be?????? It's almost like saying build a house out pine or balsa wood and the stronger would be Balsa?????


Anaema - If you really want to go fast get a 454ci full blown Chevy Big Block under the hood of the Supra Mk4 (yeah right!) and enjoy the four digit horsepower:headbang: You may have to wear googles and stick your head out the window when driving to be able to see because the blower and engine will be in the way, and also you may just be a little front heavy but those are both minor details. The best thing about that is you won't even have to gut the car....he he :haha:

Lowboost - that second car of yours sounds crazy,what do you expect it to ran at after it is all said and done?

didnt i say a 1UZ or 3UZ? where the hell did you get 454cid bigblock?

aluminum driveshafts are built stronger than stockers, but are still lighter.

and get a Supra because they are made to go fast. thats not to say you cant make an SC400 go fast, but you lose what the SC400 is all about. luxury.

 

[lowboost]

Lexus is Luxury for sure, but for the row to hoe ratio (couldnt help but say that) aka amount of money to spend is always a problem... Ive found SC300/400's all over ebay for around 4500 to 7500 in nice shape! and a 2jzgte swap is only 3500ish. So you could have a BPU supra powered SC300 with 500whp for around 10K dollars.

Jeff

 

[jibby]

lowboost- The 95 sc400's are rated at 260hp at stock, I believe, so after years of use your probably are looking at around 230hp or so. The other mods you mention (a good intake, and full exhaust, will bring you to like 270-290hp would be my guess. Open up the ECU you may even push 300hp. Oh, and yes you can dyno while running nos. My last dyno was maybe eight months ago and I was at 276/384hp (with and without nos). That was just with an ECU piggyback and half of an exhaust change out on my 1992 sc400 at that time.

I actually am planning on getting a dyno shortly. I am really curious to see what my car is now putting out after all the other upgrades since then...



Anaema - Lowboost said it perfectly, sc400 offers more luxury and room then the Supra and is 10k cheaper or more on average. If I wanted a Supra to begin with I would have bought one instead. I actually would have bought a supra TT but they didn't have as much leg room and inside cabin space as the sc400. I always liked the V8 engines as well over a smaller turbo'd engine. I can't ever go less then 8 cylinders in a performance car it's against my religion....Lastly I didn't want to drive a manual transmission in LA traffic. Those were my deciding factors...and no offense intended to all the Supra owners on this forum, this is just my opinion.

 

[lowboost]

wow so you made 384whp or bhp? and how much spray? what kind of stand alone are you running? I expect to make a good bit more power due to only running an alternator instead of ps, ac, and tensioners, I hear that can free up like 10 to 15 bhp. I really think the radiator and oil filler cap should make most of the power. Seriously if I was to spray 100 shot on this motor I'd have the potential to make 400hp then! thats sick in a 2500 lb car! What kind of torque did you make? I really think my advantage will be having a 5 speed gear box with shorter ratio gears allowing the V8 to fly through the gears (but the tranny tops out at 160) so I shouldnt have a problem (never going that fast either lol).

I'll stop whoring your thread, and answer your question, a Big V8 stock is faster in a small light car than a modified V8 (basic boltons) in a stock body in our case. The Supra and Lexus are no light weights by any means, the Lotus Elise/Exige are amazing cars with only 180bhp, thats because they are made of aluminum and weigh 1800 lbs.

 

[jibby]

Lowboost - whore away, that is why the forums are here, and that is to post and learn something, get bashed every once in a while, and maybe get a laugh every now and then...It's all good. :fing02: Yes, based on what you are telling me you should make 300bhp on your motor if it is in good shape. I had used a piggyback ECU and not Stand Alone ECU to get those dyno numbers of BHP and the 100hp nos shot in the above post. Torque is nasty with these V8's either with a good upgraded torque converter, or with a manual. I get driven back in my seat pretty hard at takeoff without nos...

400bhp should be easy for you with a 100hp nos shot and good heater core... Sounds fast with that swap of yours, very light and fast....

 

[lowboost]

its pretty!

 

[Damien]

That's a nice looking front bar.

Here are the weights of things from my V8 Soarer - all in KG sorry but you'll be able to look up a conversion thingo.

Stock bonnet - 27kg
CF bonnet (no fibreglass) - 9kg
Passenger electric seat - 30kg
Driver's electric seat - 35kg (has motor for lumbar support)
Standard battery - 20kg
Optima Yellow Top sealed battery - 11kg
Full size spare (17" alloy) - 21kg
Spacesaver spare - 12kg
Back seat - 12kg (I need to double-check this one)

These things are spcific to Soarers
CD Stacker - 12kg
CDROM under stacker - 8kg
Air suspension compressor - 6kg
Airbag strut - 7kg
GPS Computer - 1kg
Suspension computer - 1kg

All adds up if you go looking for it but there's more stuff in a Soarer compared to the SC400.

 

[jibby]

Thanks Damien - I just need to figure out how to convert KG's to pounds. I went google and came up with short numbers. The driver seat weighs 120 pounds and the passenger 85 pounds from the earlier post and you say they weigh 30/35KG's so these numbers don't match up when converting. Let's say every KG weighs 3 pounds on average does that sound right?

 

[Peewee]

2.2 .

 

[Damien]

120lb sounds too high - that's how much a skinny kid would weigh and the seat doesn't weight that much. You can easily lift it out.

 

[jibby]

CD stacker weighs 25 pounds I don't think so..maybe 10 pounds tops something is a miss here if 1 LB is 2.2 KG's.

 

[Damien]

Maybe you have a different CD stacker but when I pulled mine out and put it on the scales it said 12kg.

Edit: The Soarer stacker has the amp underneath it as part of the same unit which accounts for the weight.

 

[jibby]

12 CD stacker?

 

[Damien]

Yep - wish I had a photo here but I'm at work.

 

[Pro]

if you want a light car you picked the wrong model to start with.

big wheels with big offsets sap huge amounts of torque. take it back to stock rims. taller tyres also grip more under load than low profiles because they have the flex in them to not break into instant wheelspin. check out all the import racers and ask why they run nothing bigger than a 15in rim. also the mass outside to COG of the rim is decreased therefore less torque is needed to drive them.

.:edit... missed Peewee's post on offsets - already covered:.

change your diff ratio to a shorter gearing. something like a 3.7:1 or a 3.9:1 will reduce the weight the drivetrain sees. should only increase your cruising RPM about 200-300rpm or so too. a lighter flywheel will also have this effect at the expense of slowing slightly on steep hills.

try and bump the oil pressure up in your automatic too, to make shifts firmer- with a better torque convertor for less slip. slip equals heat and heat is burnt energy that should be driving your rear wheels.

lightweight driveline components is a total bunkum unless you're chasing EVERY SINGLE last hundredth of a second. honestly not worth the expense unless you're Rupert Murdoch or the like.

sticky road tyres like yokohamas or MT radials will also add a few tenths.

 

[jibby]

Thanks for the info pro240. Since this thread is gearing towards weight reduction, let's talk about this light weight aluminum flywheel that weighs half as much as stock? Couple of questions:

1) Are these lighter weight flywheels made to last, or do they wear out fast? Teeth breaking off, warped from heat, etc..?

2) Are there real power gains to be made with this change out, any examples?

3) Lastly, Is it worth the money?

 

[Pro]

it probably would be worth the money - but not if you have to pay someone to reef out your engine and trans *JUST* to fit it.

generally, lightweight billet flywheels are about 100% stronger than stock cast-but-hardened flywheels. the one i had in my RX7 weighed 4.4kgs and looked like a round piece of swiss cheese - revs would rise and fall like a motorbike.

 

[Damien]

How would something like that be in traffic with a manual gearbox? Would you have to ride the clutch and keep the revs up?

 

[jibby]

That is incouraging news!!! Any draw backs with the new fly other then the heavy price and labor involved? So power gains will be noticed that is all I needed to hear...thanks...Anyone in an sc400 or Soarer try this yet? Any testimonies? To many questions sorry I am like a spung right now just taking it all in....