Jibby's Dyno results.....

[Toysrme]

I think you're in good shape for things to come jibby. I mean, don't most 1uz's of your year in mmaculate condition put down about 185whp to begin with? Keep in mind it's not all about peak power either. It's about the average power over the time you use it.

It's like... You add 20 horsepower to the bottom of the rpm range alone. Great! That's first gear! :shrug: You add 20 horsepower at 5000rpm... You just added power every time you put yor foot on the floor b/c it's in the meat of the poewrband.


Impose afew stck dynos on yours. I think you'll feel alot better about it. Especially the power past what normal peak horsepower would be. I'll gaurentee you, without even having to look. That full exhaust you have going on is keeping it from falling off as fast, regardless of the higher outright power. (Which is something that can tend to get overlooked)
While I might not put money on it, whatever your peak horsepower gain is? is probably doubled at some point before the redline. And that's before getting the fuel dialed in. If it's still wanting to run rich past peak horsepower, you'll stave power fall-off even more, along with making more outright starting half way up the powerband.

 

[Smitherz]

"What I don't understand is why am I beating out cars like the 280bhp infinity G35's consistently without the nos.. 350Z's...etc...(pre headers too 0-60mph)I can take them N/A with the headers out right all the way....."

Feeling down on your power #'s? I would say all the kills you have on the street might be a result of the driver! I have the 2.7L, 3rz motor in my 4wd Tacoma and I smoke about any truck at the Dunes in my area. I even pull all the new trucks (4wd HEMI's etc) at the sand drag strip. Most people don't peg the throttle to the floor when they are running hard. You can't be too dissapointed on your power, your torque is nice and definitely helps while pulling gears when you are on the strip. The other cars are having a hard time keeping up their momentum while you are increasing your constantly during shifts.

Gawd I can't wait to get my 1UZ in!!

 

[jibbby]

Well Toys we don't want headaches that's for sure... Thank's for the heads up....Looking for a good a simple plug and play unit...I am getting to the point where I think I tune myself thru a laptop...I know the factory setiting...I know where to set the fuel mix to run just a bit rich for my nos.....Advancing or retarding the timing to perfection may require some professional help, but I am comfortable with everything else........... Anyway, thanks agian...

 

[WDoherty]

hey jibby. This one is definatley out on a limb, but just an idea. Is it you goal to be around or above 300hp n/a at the crank? Reground cams will be do this and hopefully you won't lose much low-end torque and gas-mileage. I know this will cost abit more, but will retain its value, have you considered a 98+ sc400. I think good ones go for 12,000 or so which is alot more than an early generation and i know i couldn't afford it. But you start with 290hp, 5 speed auto, better gas mileage, indoor/outdoor temp, nicer steering wheel and shifter and a newer car. You could swap everything from your 92 over. Definately headers since they are already custom fit for the sc (same block) and rims, suspension etc, assuming you still have the original stuff to turn your car to basically stock. I think the torque converter would swap as well, but you would have to check that, you could swap the rear, but gearing would be much different b/c of the 5 speed the 98+ has a 3.26 and the supra one you have now is 3.76, of course you can do it and many gs owner's have you'd have so low ass gearing, or just go with a limited slip on the 3.26. The exhaust should give you 25hp crank as it did before or more so there is 315hp and swift racing makes an intake/ecu package for the vvt-i motor that is pretuned, just plug in, that has dyno'ed 22rwhp or about 30 crank so that would put you at around 345hp n/a. You wouldn't sacrifice low-end or mileage, you'd actually have much better low-end torque and throttle response with the vvt-i and 5 gears. Anyway just an idea. More money upfront, but the later car will hold that value and mods you dump into the earlier car won't. Of course, you can also install the nos as well, probably with the ecu as it is as you have. So no headaches about piggy backs, dyno tuning or anything, very simple/straighforward.

http://www.swiftracing.com/vehicles/lexus/gs/intake_gs400.htm

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-LEXUS-SC400_W0QQitemZ170016486274QQihZ007QQcategoryZ6300QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

just an example, only 75000 miles, but the interior looks alittle ragged
actually its not that bad, just would need a steering wheel cover and mats.

 

[WDoherty]

ok just checked, the DTC also works in the 98-2000 sc400 as well.

 

[stevechumo]

John,

I agree with all of you that 20 -22 hp gain on the complete exhaust system is very good. Based on my years of experience on the 4 banger Honda/Acura, only around 10 hp gain is the max for a true cold air intake and the complete exhaust system. A true cold air intake is the one that protrudes straight right under the front bumper with all the cold air being sucked in. This cold air intake alone would gain around 5 hp so the exhaust system only gains about 5 hp. Therefore, you have gained as twice % as the Honda/Acura.

If you cut a hole under the stock air box and put the air filter pod under it, I'm very positive that you would gain at least another 5-10 hp. Here, straight pipe is the key. This method is used a lot in the Honda/Acura. With ECU tuning after those mods, I'm also positive you'll gain another 10 hp. That would be totalled for around 40 hp on N/A and without any cams. Wow! It's hard to beat that way. But this cold air intake can't be left like that in the rain season. It'll have to be either used with a by-pass valve from AEM or put away.

For those G35 & 350Z guys who lost to you, the reason is mostly your torque converter. Your torque converter puts down the power a lot quicker than those N/A G35 & 350Z. However, if you're on the freeway, you might slightly lose.

If you look into the ECU, the Greddy E-Manage is a very good one. It's a lot better than the SAFC-II. You can fully adjust like a standalone, while the SAFC-II can only be used for the fuel adjustment, Vtec control, and monitoring. I've seen several 500 - 600 hp cars like 350Z, S2000, Acura, Supra...etc, using only with this Greddy ECU. The importance is many tuners know how to work on this popular Greddy. I actually haven't of the SMT before I joined the Lextreme website.

 

[Smitherz]

The Greddy E-Manage sytem is pretty affordable! As soon as I get everything running and final in my truck I would love a tunable controller for $600 U.S. I would be SUPER happy with all the features that system provides. These guys are cheap and they have good info to summarize the capabilities.
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/ultimate/features/index.html

I'm all over that once my 1UZ swap is done! Greddy makes great stuff as I've installed a couple systems on a couple drag imports and rotaries in the past. I just fear the cost of the cams I want =o That's going to be a punch in the nuts for sure.

If anyone has any good links of installations or first hand experience with the E-Manage on the Lexus V8 please share.

 

[Lextreme II]

I forgot the injectors size but e-management is limited to very small injector sizes.

 

[WDoherty]

I forgot the injectors size but e-management is limited to very small injector sizes.

what about e-manage ultimate?

 

[Toysrme]

Which is part of my problem with the e-manage blue & gold. They start at good prices... And are basically an ugly SAFC-II without a pretty screen to impress the ladies.
By the time you "upgrade" them with the addons. You're up $200-300 bucks VS what the old smt6 costs now after a price hike for what's basically the equivilant unit. :\

But they do have a nice injector calculator that will get you in the rough guesstimates of tuning, and some of the feature sets are different.


I haven't touched an e-manage ultimate, but I know they are kicking butt & taking names like the smt7's are right now. The only real problem I have with the EM-U & SMT7 is the cost. You get into the question of advanced piggyback+ECU, try a megasquirt & stuff, or low end stand alone.
It's a tough question to answer! I would most likely go with the piggyback+ECU for driveability, but for bigtime projects...

 

[jibbby]

Thanks for the input guys...Steve, I can definetely design a better cold air intake like you said but I will have to worry more about rain and dirt that is for sure...I have a simple heat sheild surrounding the big Rod Millen Pod filter now, I have enlarged and channeled the cold air intake from under the headlight to directly hit the pod...However, I do still get engine heat intake so I may re-design the intake more like the BFI or something....Just don't want water intake problems when raining.....Thanks Steve...My intake flows better then stock I would think..but definetely not better then what you are suggesting..

ECU - I sent back my faulty Apexi unit and they are mailing me a new one which I should receive shortly.....I will go with the new Apexi unit for now that can only manage the fuel and air.....No timing changes for now as I would ideally like... I do get a little pinging on the bigger nos shots at redline....I think that is timing and not fuel mix.. The SMT7 is something I am really looking at closely.....

I always liked the Greddy E with my domestic engines of the past...They worked great always, but with these import motors I am a little weary in addtion to what Toys says....

 

[Toysrme]

I aint knocking e-manage. They're wildly popular. Easily the most popular piggyback on the import sceen (after the SAFC's).

Are you running the right temp spark plugs jibby?

 

[jibbby]

Toys - I am running NOS plugs that are cooler temp rated.... Autolites...The plugs are designed for nos applications specifically. They were also properly gapped when installed...The pinging I heard was only on two of my most power nos runs and it was not a loud pinging just a hint at redline under the juice.....This pinging noise also happen when running on the stock ECU settings and not with any ECU piggyback tuning......I am thinking maybe a slight enriched fuel mix may correct the pinging at redline but I dought it.. It was always my understanding that high rpm pinging and or knocking is usually a result of fouled timing.. I would think a slight retard of the timing at higher rpms would illiminate the pinging noises...Isn't that usually the case?

 

[Toysrme]

Alot of times, ya.
You can add a basic water injection kit too. You wouldn't believe what that'll do to mild detonation / pre-ignition.

Ever used anything to clean the combustion chamber before? & I don't mean a fuel addative. Those don't touch the combustion chamber. I mean something like seafoam down the intake. If you've got some carbon build-up in there (And it will if you've never cleaned one before) it may help it to seafoam it afew times one day.

 

[jibbby]

I have had my car running for over 14 years with the EGR intact, never did anything to it for internal cleaning...Got over 100,000 miles on it... What does cleaning the combustion chamber really do for an engine like that? I never thought a layer of carbon build up would really rob you of performance, or do much damage? Did I assume wrong?

What do you think seafoaming would do for the engine besides make it shine? I have heard alot about seafoaming but never took it seriously.... Does Cleaning carbon deposits really make a difference?

Yeah, I also know about the water injection kits...I hear there are pros and cons to those setups...Is that true?

Toys I am trying to pick your brain I hope you don't mind......Thanks for the info...

 

[Toysrme]

I have had my car running for over 14 years with the EGR intact, never did anything to it for internal cleaning...Got over 100,000 miles on it... What does cleaning the combustion chamber really do for an engine like that? I never thought a layer of carbon build up would really rob you of performance, or do much damage? Did I assume wrong?

What do you think seafoaming would do for the engine besides make it shine? I have heard alot about seafoaming but never took it seriously.... Does Cleaning carbon deposits really make a difference?

Hah! You're gunna shoot yourself for not taking it seriously.

I doubt it would cure your mild ping, but carbon superheats in the combustion chamber & is a sorce of pre-ignition. It won't hurt to do it, I got news for you.
Ya. You'll notice a differance that's for sure. I'll put money on it (for real). For the v6 guys, the rule of thumb we've come up with is that if you haven't cleaned the upper intake & combustion chambers of carbon in the last year, you're probably down 5bhp peak, and eventually it'll hit about 10bhp.
Besides that, the throttle responce picks up a metric ton after you've done it.

$5 can jibby... Chump change. I expect this done by tomorrow.
Warm the engine. Pour a cup out into a seperate container. Pull your brake booster line off & put your finger over the end so you dont' stall. Put that into the bottom of the cup of water. Pull you finger off. It'll dissipear quickly. Shut the engine off ASAP & let it sit for 5 min.
Crank the engine, see why they say "Well ventalated area". Let it just sit & idle 10 min. Then take it out on the road. I suggest making use of afew quick blasts to redline in a low gear while it's still smoking.


I would recommend that if you live in an area anal about smoking cars <cough>Cali<cough>. Take the bottle with you just in case. Say your mechanic gave it 2 you & he said it'd smoke the first few minutes you drove it & you play stupid.
Then do it again right after.




Don't think of it as horsepower in a can... Think of it as hey it did something for $5 I wish I would have been doing on a yearly for the last 10 years!
Just like no matter how well you think your car idles. Flushing your oil with Seafoam, Diesel fuel, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc. will make it astoundingly better. You don't know a smoothe idle on a worn in engine until after you've flushed it. I don't care what oil you use, or how often you change it. If it hasn't been flushed in awhile/ever, it'll be a night & day difference.

Yeah, I also know about the water injection kits...I hear there are pros and cons to those setups... Is that true?

Toys I am trying to pick your brain I hope you don't mind......Thanks for the info...

NP.
Water injection makes the world go round when you don't want to buy race gas, or you feel the need to have a big safety buffer from a lean-out.
The downsides would be:
It's another system on the car, so statistically it can fail.
Eventually you have to fill it. (Which never made any since to me... You can have a container as big as you want LoL! A gallon+ doesn't weigh *that* much & is going to last an aweful long time trust me.)

A small amount of water injected wil generally cure mild detonation, regardless of it's cause.
Water will keep a combustion chamber spotless of carbon.
Larger amounts of water can create a *very* large safety against running lean.
The more water, the lower the octane you need for the same power.
You can get into talking about the mpg benifit. But unless you bump the compression in some form, it's not going to happen.

 

[jibbby]

Toys you da man!!! Seafoaming you say gets it done, sounds to me like it will benefit the motor in more ways then one, sweet!!!! I am on it tomarrow like fly's on crap....To busy today, but tomarrow I will give it a go like you say......Flushing the oil with seafoam too you say? How is that process done, just poor it in with the oil and let it run with the full synthetic 10/40w oil?

Brake booster hose you say is the best way to inject the seafoam? Is that a suction hose, and is their another way to introduce the seafoam incase I can't figure it out?...Like threw the throttle body or something? Sounds like my engine can sure use a cleaning...WOW...How many times should this process be repeated in engine like mine to really get the job done?

I will look into water injection more...however wouldn't that rob the car of power, as you are introducing a small volume of fluid that in non-combustable? You may get cooler intake temp but what about the detonation effect? I will read up on it more, thanks again Toys....

Now Toys, I have run a quart of transmission fluid in with the oil maybe once a year, because the transmission fluid acts like a detergent to help clean things up a bit, like lifters, valves, etc.....I am sure you already knew about that little trick.......

Man I am blasting you with questions..sorry man just trying to get a grip on this seafoaming stuff...

 

[WDoherty]

yeah toysrme, i didn't quite understand the description of that process as well. Did you say a cup of water, or did you mean sea-foam. What about some risilone through the throttle body, as my dad used to do that years ago through the carb of our van and it would smoke like hell.

 

[Toysrme]

The brake booster hose is a large vacuum hose to the intake manifold.
Well, there's a pint of seafoam in a can. I normally tell the v6 guys to use a 1/3 of a can. But yall just go ahead & use a 1/2 a can.
Yes, suck seafoam in it. The directions I wrote were for using seafoam into the intake to get carbon out of the general intake valve / combustion chamber area.

I'd do it twice, if not three times (With a second can). Then shortly before your next oil change, pour it in with the oil.

 

[WDoherty]

word......