Another day on the dyno

[XR8tt]

Almost as much with high compression and CONTROLED low boost..
Trouble is you'd STILL [imo] require forged rods to take low rpm power..

I play quite a bit with XR6T's and older SOHC Ford 4.0 6's..
They have rod issues if power comes on too early..

On the other hand you don't really need 300 h.p at 1500 rpm when rock climbing etc.. That's what gearing is for..
That motor would rip in something light !!!

 

[Zuffen]

Funny as I've contemplated selling the entire engine, ECU and intercooler set up from the car and starting again with an LS6. This would give someone the opportunity to drop it all into something lightish and have lots of fun.

I figure I've done this now for something different.

I'm quite close to selling the whole car off and starting on something else.

No idea what at the moment but a new challenge would be fun.

AND I think my wife would like to see it gone. Nothing said but this has absorbed an awful lot of my time, not to mention a chunk of money.

The only toruble is if I sold it I would lose my tie to this Forum!

 

[Cobber]

Well that's an easy fix, buy a light weight sports car, I'm thinking something like a lotus 7 or Westfield and do the transplant......

Drop a std Lexus engine in the 4x4 and sell it to fund the next project.

I'm an ideas man.

 

[JBrady]

Would hate to loose your presence here. Great contributor.

Changing now to a different engine combo would be drastic and expensive.

Now that you have explored the heavily modified route how about the stock with compressor route?

Sell the modified engine or store it. Bolt in a stock everything engine with the ONLY mods being requirements neede to bolt on the twin screw. Or sell the screw and go single or twin turbo.

Either way you can thrash the stocker and see how much you can get out of the factory assembled engineering. Seems like 500hp flywheel is more than doable. Have another stock engine (or two) in storage in case of a failure.

This is more than interesting as you can make direct comparisions between your modified engine and the factory assembly. Should be MUCH less expensive also

I find the 700rwhp STOCK assembly 2jz-gte's more impressive in many ways than the 1000+hp massively modified ones. Same for turbos. I am more impressed by the 600hp turbo making 600hp than the Godzilla turbo making less than max. I like seeing maximum out of minimum. Great fun to whip someone with the vehicle they just got finished laughing at!

 

[Zuffen]

Just when we all think it's finished I've decided to remove the supercharger and try to seal it better from intake leaks.

The by-pass valve bolts to the manifold with 4 x 6mm cap head bolts then inserts into the bottom of the intake tract between the t/b and supercharger. Sorry I can't photograph it as its still in the car.

Where the py-pass enters the intake it uses 5 or 6 "O" rings stacked up the by-pass to seal it. I will say this is the weakest point in the Richwood system.

I've had my share of dificulty getting the engine to idle below 1,200rpm and I think this is where my problem lies.

Once I have it off I need to work out a way to seal the joint.

I don't think I could weld to the by-pass as it may melt the vacuum valve. I guess I could strip it down to just the basic tube.

I'll post up a photo of the problem area and see what suggestions you guys can come up with.

I'm sort of leaning toward wedling a flat plate onto the top of the by-pass so I could then bolt it to the intake with a single "0" ring sealing it.

 

[XR8tt]

Yep much the same as top fuel motors...
O rings on nearly everything...
After only "1000" [800 on a sub 5 second run] engine revolutions they are pulled down & checked so gaskets, sealer is out ...
Silicon is really a short term fix...
Especially when surfaces are not dead flat or not strong enough...

 

[Zuffen]

Ok now it idles at 800rpm like the Autronic is programmed to do.

I wasn't happy with the stack of "O" rings so decided to replace it.

I machined up an alloy adaptor to fit the opening in the plenum and then use a single "O" ring to seal it.

Whilst doing that I was curious as to how much vacuum it took to actuate the bypass so I sucked on the bypass and got no resistance.

A little investigation revealed the diaphram was ruptured. There's the air leak!

A quick trip to my local Holden dealer revealed I could get in a week at a cost of nearly $500.00, no thanks. CAPA had one for $195.00 delivered and I could get one from the US on ebay for $60.00 delivered.

Payapl doesn't like me at the moment so a CAPA one is on it and it's running nicely.

I noticed this chamber has a restricted orifice which would slow down the transition form vacuum to boost which may make the diaphrams life a little easier. I've left the restrictor in and see how it goes.

It's only a few hours work to swap out the supercharger to get at it so I'll see how it goes.

For some reason the motor seems to be making more power over the last few weeks. Maybe its freeing up but definitely it wants to beak into wheelspin much earlier and with less provocation than before.

Maybe it's time to revisit the dyno?

 

[Cobber]

Harrop have them for about $25.
Part number 60-211386 P/N 211386 Actuator. This is for the bolt on type.

I tried to get one a couple of years ago and Holden would only sell me a whole supercharger.

Can you measure the size of the orifice please

 

[cribbj]

Rod, as an alternative, Whipple in the US sell the bypass valve actuators, including the one with the dual ports. They fit just fine on the Richwood setup:

http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/product.asp?ProdID=1212

 

[Zuffen]

I should have posed the question here first and would have saved a bunch of bucks.

Looking at the orifice I would guess it's under 10thou.

I would have picked up the eBay one (not knowing about Harrop) but Paypal wanted me to "confirm" account as I had spent over a set limit, and it can take a week to go through the process.

I've had the account for 4 or 5 years and haven't used it for a few months.

No idea what they were on about.

I'll give the car a good run today and see how it goes.

I need to visit a different dyno shop about my Lancia so I may take the Rover along and have a chat to them and see what they think it should be putting out. I stil feel there is more in the engine we aren't seeing.

 

[Cobber]

My Mrs had an email yesterday from paypal to tell her to verify her account details, funny thing is she doesn't have a paypal account so there must be scams going on at the moment.

I am going to try an orifice in the vacuum line of mine as well as I have noticed that the actuator can flick open and closed very quickly. 10 thou drill might be a bit hard to drill but I have some jet drills so I will try the smallest first and then so up from there.

As long as you are running good afr's and it's running sweet don't worry about dynoing the guts out of it. A friend just had his 351w killed by a dyno jockey, it had been running perfect for 12 months he just wanted the transient throttle adjusted slightly. The jockey set it up on the dyno and went straight for the top end numbers holding WOT and adjusted the timing until it went bang.