Help starting a 93 1UZFE for the first time

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Looks very tidy!

1 battery "-" to engine block to chassis
2 battery "+" to the big starter wire
3 ECU's BATT to battery +
4 ECU's IGSW, +B to ignition switch (temporarily)
5 Check that ECU's E1 pin (and the rest of Ei) has continuity to ground
6 Now get to the loom connectors that don't run into ECU
-use multimeter
-use your wiring diagram
-make sure to have 12v at o2s power pins, ISCV, MAF, diagnostic socket, igniters
-also make sure to have 12v at injectors
-make sure igniters are grounded firmly

that should make it
 
A couple of other points;

It looks like it's an LS400 engine.

* you will need to connect the ISCV to the inlet after the AFM/MAF and before the throttle body
* you will need to block the small pipe on the front of the plenum as it will be a vacuum leak
* looking at the version of your engine you may not have heated o2 sensors
* from memory the MAF/AFM gets 5 volts not 12
* o2 sensors don't need to be connected to start it and run if you don't have any exhaust built yet
* you will find the pinout for the LS on the left hand side of this link http://www.lextreme.com/misc.html
 
Zuffen,

UCF11 runs metal case (optical transducer type) MAF which needs 5V, and UCF20 (non-vvti) has plastic MAF which needs 12V.

I'm not quite sure which one is needed for 1993 LS400 . But either model will run without a MAF
 
To crank it over, activate the starter wire. It's the fattest one among those you find in "body loom" connectors (ones that don't run into ecu)

MREL controls master relay. See your circuit diagram. The relay isn't needed for your quick test.

IGSW is input, not output
 
No relays is ok for a quick test. Just twist em together and connect to 12V. You may want a fuse though to make sure you don't screw it

1996 diagram is ok for 1993 as long as pin configuration is the same. You may like 1-hour subscription to toyota techinfo instead of having some beer to be 146.5% confident you have the right diagram. But a beer and 1996 drawing is fine enough
 
The front of your push rod to the booster will try and twist the pushrod when used.

The pushrod really needs to have a clevis on the end so it is pushing square on the pushrod.
 
George! I changed the coil and it fired right up!! Thank you so much. I can carry on with the build. Awesome, Merry Christmas & happy holidays!
 
So happy to see your success (and EXCELLENT moonwalk)...

Do you have any thoughts on the wiring and how any of this will work when the car is actually running down the road? I have considered a Spitronics (or other) aftermarket ECU system to get my 2UZ running in a 1966 Land Cruiser... I've been led to believe that this will make the swap plug and play wiring-wise. I guess there are 2 milestones in a swap like this:
1. getting it running at all
2. Getting it running right down the road.

I will stay tuned as you get to the "down the road" portion of your adventure.

GOOD WORK! And I love the 85 Maserati body style too!
 


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