Standalone ECU Going Adaptronic thread!

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kc95sc400

New Member
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524
Location
Charlotte, NC
So after so long running on the stock ECU I have finally decided to go with a standalone. This is partially based on my last few track runs where I was losing fuel at the top of the RPM band. I’m still not sure what was happening but I think I was either putting too much fuel pressure on the injectors and locking them or possibly that I was maxing out the MAF signal to the stock ECU resulting in fuel cut. Regardless, some changes are about to happen.
I have purchased an Adaptronic e420c along with an Innovative wideband and some 440cc 7mgte injectors. I also bought a flying lead harness with the ECU “header” connector attached as to make my own PnP harness.

Bought the ECU from here, US dealer - http://www.clublexus.com/forums/5383096-post208.html

The harness came from here - http://www.autosportwiring.com/Products.htm

The injectors and wideband came from eBay.

For anyone not familiar with my car here is a link to my modifications, not 100% updated but close - http://www.clublexus.com/forums/5383096-post208.html

Attached is a wiring diagram and a picture of my mostly completed harness. A few notes:

All of the grounds for the Adaptronic are using the factory ground points through the factory wiring despite what’s shown on the diagram.
The Suprastick (transmission controller) will be wired completely separate from the patch harness despite the diagram.

It turns out that the factory ABS wheel speed sensors CANNOT be used for vehicle speed inputs into the e420c as they are, they need a modified circuit to convert the signals from them into a digital signal. I will likely do this since it is cheap and reasonably easy to make this circuit and I would like to use the traction and launch control features of the ECU. I will use at least 1 rear wheel sensor for an MVSS input and at least 1 front wheel speed sensor for an SVSS input into the Adaptronic. If for some reason this doesn’t work out I will fall back onto the vehicle speed senor installed on the auto transmission which does send out a digital signal. This should allow me to at least use launch control.

The AC circuit. I’m not 100% sure how this works factory. This is how I think it works: Power comes from the heater fuse, travels through the AC relay to the ACMG terminal of the ECU, then out the AC terminal on the ECU to the AC control assembly. I am pretty sure that the AC control assembly controls the ground on the circuit and that it goes through the ECU only so that it knows when the AC is on for idle up. I think that on either the ACMG or AC terminals there would be 12volts with the AC off. Then when the AC is turned on and the AC control assembly closes the ground on the circuit there would be 0 volts on either of the terminals. I plan to try and verify this before hooking it up as shown in the diagram.

I have been using 315cc 7mge injectors with a Bell Engineering FMU. I think that the 315’s are too small which is why I got the FMU. With the 440’s I will be ditching the FMU and running stock fuel pressure.

I will be using the factory EGR wiring to connect the MAP sensor to the ECU. Also going to use the IDL2 wiring (normally for the sub-throttle position sensor) to connect to a solid state relay for my water meth injection. The SS relay will allow me to use PWM to control the water meth pump. Also using the MAF wiring to control a relay for my cooling fans. Will be using the stock control wire for the fuel pump ECU to connect a relay to turn the fuel pump on and off. Using the seat heater switches to enable / disable traction and launch control since I don’t have seat heaters anymore.

I have acquired a few base maps to use for fuel and timing. I do plan to use the Adaptronic’s learning features to aid in tuning.

Well enough for now, even though I know there is a ton more. Let me know what you all think.

And thanks to Cobber for all the help so far…

KC
 

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So, making a diagram and studying it is a must when planning an install like this. It allows one to visualize things and see how everything will work and wire together before actually doing it. It can also help find problems in the plan.

Last night while I was studying it and looking over the OEM diagrams I discovered a problem with my power source to the Adaptronic 8 pin connector. Normally, the stock ECU has constant power at the batt terminal which I am not using at all. When the ignition is turned on power is supplied to the IGSW terminal which makes the ECU supply power to the MREL terminal to power the EFI main relay. The switched side of the relay is powered by the EFI fuse and when it closes it supplies power to the B+ terminal of the ECU.

With my original wiring I had the IGSW, MREL and B+ terminals all tied together. Don't know if this would have caused any problems or not but I would have been putting power on both sides of the main relay. So, I changed the wiring, I now have the IGSW and MREL terminals tied together so that the MREL gets activated when the key is on. I then connected the power wire for the Adaptronic in the 8 pin connector to the B+ wire from the main relay so the Adaptronic gets its power in the same way that the stock ECU would.

Some other notes:

I am planning on starting the actual install the first Friday of next month (12-3). I have a weeks vacation starting on that day.

I will likely swap the injectors before doing anything else. Then I can start and run the car with them before installing the ECU to make sure I don't have any problems with them. Also planning to run a can or two of pressurized cleaner through them to help clean them out since they are used.

I currently have an AEM wideband installed on the driver’s side. I am going to move it upstream into the header and leave it to run the AFR gauge. I will put the Innovative unit on the passenger side header to run the Adaptronic. This way (for the first time) I will be able to compare the AFR between banks if needed. I will install what o2 sensors I have into the exhaust only to plug the holes, they won't be sending any information to anything.

I might re-wire the injectors. Apparently it doesn't really matter much how they are wired but there are multiple options. The stock pairs are 1&7, 2&8, 4&6, and 3&5. This is what Lexus has called "multi-port injection". The configuration in the Adaptronic has them wired 1&6, 8&5, 4&7, and 3&2. Not sure what you would call that. If I were to re-wire them I would do 1&8, 4&3, 6&5, and 7&2 which would make it semi-sequential. Have not yet decided (and probably won't until I'm into the wiring harness) if would be worth it to re-wire. If I do re-wire them I will likely run all new wiring from the Adaptronic to the injectors, I think this would be much easier than trying to change the existing factory wiring.

I will need to change / fix the wiring of my Suprastick. I plan on wiring it independent of the patch harness.

Then, hopefully I'll be ready to install the Adaptronic itself. Once that is done, I'm hoping the current base setting / ECU file I have will be enough to get the car started, then it will be on to tuning it.

I have attached a fixed diagram.

KC
 

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Out of curiosity why Adaptronic? Why not AEM EMS that's been reworked by Mitch P?

I think the main reason is cost. Even used an AEM cost more than the Adaptronic e420c does new and I'm sure Mitch doesn't rework them for free. Also, I think the Adaptronic is probably easier to tune (maybe I'm wrong). But, there is a local tuner in my area that charges $1000 dollars to tune an AEM. He tunes quite a few different systems and the AEM tune is twice as much as anything else he offers so that has to mean something.

I also think that considering I've been using the stock ECU for so long, the e420c is more than enough ECU for me.:p It will do everything I need it to and a few things I wasn't expecting it to.

KC
 
Oh really? How much does it cost? I might look into it, I figured the EMS would be the most cost efficient way of doing it
 
Oh really? How much does it cost? I might look into it, I figured the EMS would be the most cost efficient way of doing it

They've raised the price some since I bought mine but here is a link to a US dealer - http://www.boundaryengineering.com/drupal/node/14

Also, when I said that a performance shop in my area charged $1000 to tune an AEM I was wrong, it's $1200. http://www.3sxautomotive.com/dyno/

The Adaptronic is supposed to more or less tune itself. Can run closed loop fuel and timing.

KC
 
So a couple of pictures attatched.

One is of course the Adaptronic. It is way smaller than I imagined it would be for some reason. Amazing to me, all the ability in such a small package.

The other is of my 4-channel ABS speed sensor convertor. Will in theory convert the signals from the speed sensors into digital pulses that the Adpatronic can use. This is so that traction control and launch control can be used. Still need to add some ground wires and find something to put it in. I am considering coating the whole board in epoxy.

KC
 

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hey kc
have u downloaded and browsed thru the adaptronic software
its not so user friendly so i normally tell my cusotmers to go thru it abit
sp they can get their head around it
i guess its what your used to but first time took me ages to figure alot fo things out
and they have a new version out now and its even more complicated so i spent few hours playing with software without it connected to ecu
make sure u update the firmware as alot of new ecus these days ive had to update the firmware even vipec ecus
 
hey kc
have u downloaded and browsed thru the adaptronic software
its not so user friendly so i normally tell my cusotmers to go thru it abit
sp they can get their head around it
i guess its what your used to but first time took me ages to figure alot fo things out
and they have a new version out now and its even more complicated so i spent few hours playing with software without it connected to ecu
make sure u update the firmware as alot of new ecus these days ive had to update the firmware even vipec ecus

Yes, I downloaded WARI awhile back. As a matter of fact, I about have my settings all ready to go.

It seems so far easier to use than the MAFTPro stuff I have been dealing with so hopefully I'll be good.

Thanks,

KC
 
Getting your head around Proportional Integral Derivative (PID) control is part of the secret to understanding the Adaptronic software. PID controls are used in many control circuits and are probably used in other ecu's but you just can't see or adjust them, they would be just pre set behind the scenes. It's when you put wild numbers in things start to go crazy and people just say what a load of shit it can't control my engine. What it does allow you to do is fine tune things like idle speed, VVT & traction control to make it very smooth.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller


I updated to V9 Wari on the weekend and had a play with the new ignition timing for idle control. It still uses the ISCV but also adjusts the timing using the P & D parameters of the PID idle control. Hard to know if it has made a lot of difference as it idled well before. Time will tell.

Khris, It looks like you have the "black sticker version" of the 420c which means you will be able to use the 4 wheel inputs for traction control. It will take a bit of time to dial in to get the right settings, see PID above. I chewed up my front paddock doing it while learning about PID. Hard to explain to the Mrs, she though I spent the whole day doing burnouts & donuts and annoying the sheep.
You can also set up a pot on the dash to adjust the % of traction control required. You need a 5kohm variable resistor hooked up to the analogue external input, it is on the circuit I sent you. This will adjust from max traction control back down to 0. I also have a switch that I can turn the traction control to 0 without having to adjust the pot from my favorite setting.

Your right there is a lot happening inside that little box and to date mine has run faultlessly and the engine has not missed a beat.

I would love to get one of the 1280 ecu's and have a play but the 420 works so well I'm not sure what performance gains I would get.

Have fun and keep us posted.
 
yer i recently wired a 1280
had to upgrade firmware due to no injection
and i found the software a pain to understand
bit differnet to the early adaptronic ecus
anyway its what yr used to
and these days ive done afew links
the new ones are much easier to understand
and slowly im learning all the background workings of them
tuning the basics like fuel and timing is piss easy on most ecus
but understanding the things that work in background makes a good tune better
 
I am looking forward to the challenge! If I didn't like challenges I would have gotten myself an SC300 to make fast. LOL.

I suppose its kind of nice for me not being "used to" a particular ECU, it's all new to me either way.

I am very excited, the time is almost here to start the install. Probably take at least a day or two since I have quite a bit of re-wiring to do (and I have three kids at the house).

KC
 
Started today... Man its a slow going process!

So far I have

Removed much of the MAFTPro wiring.
Removed a good bit of my interior.
Fixed some of my wiring that was pretty shady in the past.
Wired on the ECU side for the injectors.
Removed the stock ECU.
Removed the Traction ECU.
Wired my speed sensors into the harness.
Have the Adaptronic about placed.
About 80% done wiring in the Suprastick which I've decided to put under the passenger seat.

Doesn't really sound like allot but I've been on it most of the day.

Finish wiring Suprastick.
Move AEM sensor and install the Innovative unit + sensor.
Some other misc wiring.
Remove the FMU.
Install the injectors.
Re-wire the injectors.
Wire in MAP and IAT sensors.
Wire e-fans and water meth.
Fuel pump wiring.
Probably 1 or 2 other things.....

Then, do a sanity check and turn the key!

KC
 
just one wire at a time and double double check and I'm sure you will be fine. Don't forget to do a free air calibration on the Innovative wide band before using it, follow the instructions from innovative and wire up the calibration re set push button and led as well.
 
I think I'm just about done with the "inside" wiring. I still need to wire the switches to the Suprastick. Auto/manual select, shift table select and the manual shifter. I still need to wire my seat heater switches to the Adaptronic and wire the fuel pump. I also still need to un-wire a few things from the MAFTPro.

I do not consider myself good at wiring but this is by far the best job I've ever done. 98% of the connections are soldered and shrink wraped. There's only going to be a few t-tapped connections. I am about 99.9% sure all of the wiring is right. I had double checked my harness about 5 times, making sure that the right Adaptronic terminals are connected to the right ECU plug terminals using an ohmmeter. I'm slightly worried about the speed sensor conversion deal, not sure why. I did find a mistake in the factory wiring diagram on one of the speed sensors, the wire colors are different on the plug than the wiring diagram shows. I put it the way which makes more sence logically.

At this point, I can probably plug in the 8-way and power up the Adaptronic to load my ECU file and make sure it powers up and talks to my computer.

Would also be a good idea to check the Suprastick to make sure it works like its supposed to. I have yet to connect it to my new laptop. It uses Hyperterminal to change the settings and I haven't tried the new Windows 7 (not free) version.

I haven't touched anything under the hood yet. Still have re-wiring to do and injectors to install. Still need to install the Innovative unit and move around some sensors.

The kids are all home today so I'm not sure how much time I'll have to do anything with it.
 
hey KC,

Are you going to get rid of your other stuff? I MIGHT be interested in some of your stuff if funds allow.

Anyway, out of curiosity why are hooking up your seat heaters to the adaptronic?
 


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