Standalone ECU Going Adaptronic thread!

[kc95sc400]

hey KC,

Are you going to get rid of your other stuff? I MIGHT be interested in some of your stuff if funds allow.

Anyway, out of curiosity why are hooking up your seat heaters to the adaptronic?

Eventually I'll be selling some stuff to help get some money back. What are you interested in? I'll have a MaftPro, 315 injectors and a bell FMU. I also have a couple of sets or iridium plugs with low miles and a ton of other (mostly stock) stuff.

The seat heater switches will turn on/off launch and traction controls.

KC

 

[ihiryu]

pretty much the MAFTPro, and the FMU, I've already got injectors. I'm researching on the MAFT unit, or going complete stand alone. Of course it'll be after Christmas ha ha.

 

[kc95sc400]

pretty much the MAFTPro, and the FMU, I've already got injectors. I'm researching on the MAFT unit, or going complete stand alone. Of course it'll be after Christmas ha ha.

Well let me know for sure, I'll let you have dibbs, LOL. I was planning on letting them go pretty cheap. PM me if you want.

I was also thinking about tearing apart the stock ECU eventually to make a harness to sell like the one I bought.

KC

 

[kc95sc400]

I seem to have run into a snag...

I can't get the LC-1 wideband unit to do anything. It won't connect to my computer and it won't flash the LED like it is supposed to.

Anyone have any ideas? I've checked the basics and the only thing that MIGHT be causing it is low batter voltage. I'm only getting about 11.35 volts on my power wire to the LC-1 and 11.8 at the battery itself.

Will have to try hooking up some jumper cables to my wifes van tomorrow I guess.

KC

 

[ihiryu]

Yes please let me know, but it's not a guarantee though, I might follow your footsteps and go standalone.

I'm not very familiar with Innovate unit, I do know the AEM only need 5 volts. Another thing, on the AEM EMS, it won't connect with less than 12 volts, even though they are two different things, I hope that the low battery voltage is the culprit

 

[kc95sc400]

Well, good news and bad news I guess.

I couldn't find my jumper cables so I took the battery out of my wife's van. It is also low on voltage tested on the battery itself. Did I mention it's cold here? Maybe that's why.

Anyway, the LC-1 still appears to be dead but I did manage to power up the Adaptronic and update the firmware/load my settings into it. All appears to be good on that end so far.

For now, I'm going to continue on with the install and not worry (try not to anyway) about the LC-1. I'll attempt to get it to work again once I get the car running. There are a couple of local dealers in the area maybe I can get them to swap it out if I can't get it working. Worst case, I do have an AEM UEGO installed on the drivers side exhaust. I was intending to leave it as is just to have the gauge and for comparison but I can wire it to the Adaptronic if needed until I can sort out the LC-1 problem.

KC

 

[kc95sc400]

Yes please let me know, but it's not a guarantee though, I might follow your footsteps and go standalone.

I'm not very familiar with Innovate unit, I do know the AEM only need 5 volts. Another thing, on the AEM EMS, it won't connect with less than 12 volts, even though they are two different things, I hope that the low battery voltage is the culprit

The AEM puts out a 0 to 5 volt signal but I'm sure it needs more than 5 volts to operate correctly...????

KC

 

[stevechumo]

After you finish the wiring and tuning, it'll be helpful for the SC4 owner gurus, if you could draw a diagram of the wiring connections and whatever is neccessary to plug the Adaptronic in and play later.

 

[kc95sc400]

After you finish the wiring and tuning, it'll be helpful for the SC4 owner gurus, if you could draw a diagram of the wiring connections and whatever is neccessary to plug the Adaptronic in and play later.

Steve,

Check the first post. I need to repost it since I've changed a couple of things.

So, I'm just about done. Need to wire the IAT and MAP sensors. Re-wire my fans and water pump. And, re-wire the fuel pump. I think thats it.

KC

 

[kc95sc400]

Here is my newer version.

The biggest difference I think is the power wires. I had it wired wrong on the other diagram.

Couple of notes specific to my install.

I am using the traction control throttle motor wires for re-wiring the injectors in a semi-sequential arrangement.

I am using the EGR valve wires to connect the MAP sensor.

I am using the original IAT sensor wires to wire the GM IAT.

I am using a wire that goes to the sub-throttle position sensor to control a relay for my water meth.

I am using the KV MAF wire for my cooling fans.

I will be using the FPC wire (normally goes to the fuel pump ECU) to control a relay for fuel pump power.

All of this can be seen on the diagram.

On a seperate note, this is what I am using for PWM control of the water/meth injection pump. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=1314543&keyword=fan+realy&pt=01806&ppt=C0115

This is a solid state relay that is normally used on quite a few dodge vehicles for control of the cooling fans.

KC

 

[kc95sc400]

So I had the car running today! WOOHOO!

Idles great. Haven't driven it at all yet. Had to take care of a few issues and still have a couple of issues to take care of.

Biggest issue - The AFR reading on my gauge is 3.5 points off compared to what the Adaptronic is reading. Gonna try moving the ground. Could be some sort of calibration issue. Haven't looked into it much yet.

The LC-1 does indeed appear to be dead. I put direct batter power and ground on it and it still does nothing.

KC

 

[MX73 V8]

Do you have the terminator plug in the serial in port of the lc1?

Do the analogue outputs work?

 

[kc95sc400]

Do you have the terminator plug in the serial in port of the lc1?

Do the analogue outputs work?

Yes the plug is in. I can't get it going far enough to give an output at all. The LC1 is definitely dead. I connected it directly to battery power / ground with and without the button / LED and tried to connect to it with my laptop. Nothing, just says to power on the "device".

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok, here's where I'm at:

My speed sensor circuit board was creating a TON of noise for some reason. The engine would miss and sputter as soon as a speed reading at all was registered by the ECU. I took it out for now and connected the VSS from the transmission for speed.

My knock sensor circuits have a TON of noise for some reason. Goes to 100+ knock count revving to 2000-2500 in neutral. I took an old shielded serial cable and re did the wiring from the ECU to the original harness, grounding the shield and everything but it didn’t really help. I have one new knock sensor (about 3months old) and one original sensor (as far as I know). They are wired together since the 420 only has one input for knock, I'm going to try cutting the older one out to see if it helps.

Idle control is going to take a bit of work.

My AFR reading to my AEM gauge and the reading at the ECU is still way off. I selected a different sensor than what I actually have (in the software) and its much closer, only about half a point off.

I did drive the car to the gas station and back. Runs pretty good. The idle and decel are definitely going to require some work but it is drivable.

KC

 

[stevechumo]

Good luck!!!

 

[Cobber]

Well done Khris,

Try separating the wheel sensor circuits off the one board and wire them stand alone for each wheel.

There is a start up procedure for the LC1 on it's first start up to let the LC1 get the heating calibrations for the sensor as well as a free air calibration. I would suggest wiring it up again from scratch including the re calibration button and LED and follow the instructions in the manual.

There is no point trying to do any tuning until you gt an accurate AFR in to the ecu.

 

[kc95sc400]

Thanks guys,

The wheel speed sensor: I will eventually try to get at least 2 working in the future because I would really like to use traction control. It was just plain silly how much noise it caused though. Might have another go with some grounded shielding and try a different ground point.

The LC1: It is dead for sure. I have tried and re-tried it. Read the directions several times, scratching my head and wondering if I'm that dumb. It really doesn't want to work. In the meantime, I'm using the AEM controllers analog output. I have UEGO 0-5 volts selected rather than the AEM UEGO 0-5volts option and it’s only off by a tenth or two. The 420 reads richer than the gauge so if anything I'll have more fuel.

The knock count: Apparently, reading on the Adaptronic forums, a rather high knock count is not unusual. Gonna run it in open loop ignition for a while and log it. I will then, assuming I don't have any knock that I know of, adjust the background knock levels as needed and have a go at closed loop ignition.

Everything else: I think I actually have the idle going pretty good in closed loop. Will be able to tell more tomorrow as I have to go back to work and this car is my daily driver. I only drove it to the gas station and back, 3 maybe 4 miles, but it drove decent. Do have some work ahead of me but I don't think it will be too bad.

KC

 

[kc95sc400]

Hey guys, little update.

I have some potentially great info on the improvement made by the Adaptronic. I can log both speed and time.

I made some logs last night and timed my 0 to 89mph. Out of two runs the best was 7.488 seconds to go from 0 to 89mph. My best actual track run on the stock ECU is 7.703 @ 88.7mph so you can see that this could indicate a HUGE improvement.

I'm not counting on this to be 100% accurate but considering less than perfect launches on the street and a max TPS of 75% this is still pretty outstanding even if the 7.488 seconds is off a bit.

Also managed to hit almost 7000rpm (which is what my limit is set to) and made 10.5 psi. Again, not even full WOT.

I intend to run the track first chance I get. Been too cold here lately and we now have about 5 inches of snow on the ground since last night. It will take me a few runs to figure out where I want my shift points, I hope to time them so that the transmission shifts by 7000rpm when I will be in the "soft rev limit" zone. A little reduced power on shifting in theory.

KC

 

[cribbj]

Good to hear KC, but don't forget that a lot (maybe most?) of your gain is from the colder (denser) wintertime air.

 

[kc95sc400]

I'm sure the colder temps help but I wouldn't say most. It was a cool dry November day when I ran the 7.703. I've run in 45 degree weather before and have never been even close to 7.488.

I also was not on a drag strip the other night. I did not even attempt to actually launch in the cold on my street tires. I was probably rolling at about 5-10mph, coming off the shoulder of the highway, before I even got serious.

I am dying to take it to the track, will be the only way to get real results.

Also should note that my intake temps were at about 61 degrees. I think, could be wrong, that the water meth somewhat evens things out with different ambient temps. It drops the temps way more when its hot vs cold out. Meaning it could be 40 out or 80 out (with off boost intake temps from 100 to 145) and my intake temps will end up around 60-70 degrees on boost either way.

KC

 

[spf_lexus]

Im mighty tempted to go the water/meth route.

Im leaving for colorado in 2 days for school with my procharger 95% installed (no belt or final intake) so that I can keep miles off it and to keep strain off my engine. I cant be late for 1st day of class and I have 1300 miles ahead of me. But anyway I swapped eveything from my ls400 minus the intercooler. I re-read your 25 something page thread on CL and you came to the conclusion that w/o the IC, you saw boost faster. This is what im chasing myself. I have done the 4.27 swap, stripped it down considerably, and have a full stainless mandrel exhaust from the exhaust ports to tips.

I am also bringing my adaptronic with me and plan to give it a shot. I already have a autometer wideband 0-5v, MSD 3-bar and GM IAT.

How many wires total were used to get yours up and running? I have a spare harness and plan to solder mine at a bench before plugging it back in. I have a diagram for the e420c to sc400 install but its misleading in sections..

Any help appreciated