Engine build up

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
That looks pretty cool. I have a bracket made from RHS that bolts to the engine mounts so I can run the engine sitting just off the floor. Its a simple thing...but functional

Elliot
 
No mate. its very simple....just a horizontal length of rhs..maybe 600 long with two lengths welded vertically one on each end about 400 long (to make a 'U' shape). then theyre bolted to the engine mounts. I used that to make sure the engine would run when i removed it from the half cut. I have some video of it running....but nowhere to upload it

Elliot
 
Just any update on my shims Elliot,

I Don't get to drive my car everyday so I just thought I'd let you know how it's going.

I gave it some stick (as in WOT) from a set of lights the other night, and found I had wheel spin up to half way through third gear. By the time I got traction I was doing 80kph.

Being such a light car it took of like a rocket I'd guess it only took me 4 seconds to get to 80 "with the wheels spinning"

With out the shims it would have lost power in the change from 1-2 and gained traction, hmmmm...I think it's time for some better tyres

It defentley go's heaps faster now but I have also put on a new exhaust
 
If you could find a way to ge that power onto the road you'd be pulling much quicker 0 to 100 times. Cant remember asking you, but what computer are you running ? There is a facility on some of the aftermarket computers that you can fit a sensor on the front wheels and one on the back wheels. The computer will detect a wheelspin by the difference in speed between the front and rear wheels and limit the power to the axle thereby maximizing your grip to increase acceleration times.

Elliot
 
Nah Im running stock engine, ecu, ect, it's just a light car.


It'll only spin the rears if you give it WOT from a set of lights
If Im moving at even walking pace and floor it it grips fine.
 
I've not updated for quite some time here. I've been working on the engine wiring loom. Tidying it all up and hiding as much as I can inside loom tube etc. Not much exciting to say about the wiring to be honest. I've tried my best to make everything look like it's not running an aftermarket ECU.
Heres what I ended up doing with the MAF unit. I snapped off the MAF sensor stalk from the bottom, then drilled it out so I caould poke a rod through to lift off the lid. It was much easier than I had expected, then once done the hole was drilled out to accomodate an M14 thread. This then allowed the airflow sensor to be screwed in from the top. I had to remove the top section of the connector part of the sensor to give clearance with the lid and hard soldered the two connections so that I can use the original wiring and computer connectors.

Elliot
 
Made some progress today at work during a quiet few hours...hehe. Made up a steel cover plate to sit on top of the black plastic cover where the OE ISCV sits which I wont be using. Just brought it home to check the fit and it looks pretty good. It was a bit of a pain trying to weld it all up with a mig as it kept pulling....must invest in a HF Tig machine !!! I'll drop it off at the chrome platers tomorrow...should look blinding when its done I hope.

Elliot
 
Picked up the cover from the chrome platers today !

Looks much better than the black plastic cover. Also discovered today that I need to fit a 2nd engine coolant temperature sensor for the transmission computer....luckily I have a few unused sesnor positions on the engine to fit one.

Elliot
 
Redphoenix, I am trying not to have too high an expectation for the engine...that way I wont be dissapointed. I dont think the engine is too far from standard as far as naturally aspirated motors go. I guess if I had to put a target figure on it, that 300 - 325 horses would be about there. Anything more will be a bonus.

Elliot
 
Dont really know if it's a show piece or not. I want to run the car on the track and take it to shows and go for long drives on the weekend....thats about it. Not really interested in winning medals or getting max horsepower.....I just want to do the best I can do and thats more than good enough for me.

Elliot
 
After 3 weeks of chasing up the machine shop, the sump has now finally been completed. I am 99% sure that the sump would have sealed up fine against the underside of the block, but you cant be too careful. I also asked the welder to have the rear plates that butt against the bottom part of the bellhousing 2mm too far out on purpose so that if it pulled when welded, there would still be enough meat to machine off back to square. Sods law....it didnt pull at all and stayed pretty much at 90 degrees to the top plate. I got the machine shop to machine the 2mm extra material off to make it a perfect fit to the engine / transmission.

I designed the scraper plates myself....I've no idea how effective they will be...it's a bit of a learning process as far as this kind of thing goes. All I have to do now is make up a baffle plate to wrap around the pick up pipe and bolt it all together..

The tube welded on the top left is for the oil level dipstick.
The bolt on the bottom left is a magnetic pick up drain point
The brass coloured fitting on the bottom right is for the electric oil priming pump pick up.


Elliot
 
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