Lextreme II
Just call me "Lex"
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Awesome... I need to make one myself......
Engine build up
- Thread starter elliotaw
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Amen to that; it was a $3500 lesson I'll never forget....
you mean per 1000rpm ????? a bit low i would have thought but makes alot more sense than per 100rpm?
Elliot,
Good stuff.
Now put it in the car and drive it like it's stolen. letting a new engine idle and run without loading it up is a sure fire way to glaze the bores.
I'll close my toolbox if I ever see you walking around looking for things to weld into your engine.
Interested to hear your final feedback on the Motec ECU.
Good stuff.
Now put it in the car and drive it like it's stolen. letting a new engine idle and run without loading it up is a sure fire way to glaze the bores.
I'll close my toolbox if I ever see you walking around looking for things to weld into your engine.
Interested to hear your final feedback on the Motec ECU.
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Amen to that; it was a $3500 lesson I'll never forget....
elliotaw
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The engine runs a little better now....as the throttle position hi and lo needed calibrating. Engine will idle now but stalls as soon as you look at the throttle. A Motec representative was supposed to be coming round to help set up the programming for me on Thursday but now they weather is predicted to be 38 degrees...think that will get post-poned....doh !
I was really hoping to run the engine up on an engine dyno to run it in...but after a few phone calls...was quoted $600 for a days dyno plus $400 for them to make custom engine mounts and an adapter for their drive system. That's quite a lot of money. I will call them back and ask if I can make the mounts and adapter for them...at least that will save $400.... dpnt know if theres the possibility of booking 1/2 a days dyno or if it will really need the whole day to do the job properly. ?
The car is still about 18 months away from completion Is there anyway to run an engine in at home on the stand ? or in a stationary car ? There must be a way to apply load to the engine....
I was wondering if the engine could be fitted in the car with the transmission, propshaft and an old axle, then rig up a hydraulic circuit to control the brakes on the axle....would that be sufficient load for the engine ? At least that way...I could start the engine once a week / month and load it up..... or am I just mad ?
Elliot
I was really hoping to run the engine up on an engine dyno to run it in...but after a few phone calls...was quoted $600 for a days dyno plus $400 for them to make custom engine mounts and an adapter for their drive system. That's quite a lot of money. I will call them back and ask if I can make the mounts and adapter for them...at least that will save $400.... dpnt know if theres the possibility of booking 1/2 a days dyno or if it will really need the whole day to do the job properly. ?
The car is still about 18 months away from completion
Is there anyway to run an engine in at home on the stand ? or in a stationary car ? There must be a way to apply load to the engine.... I was wondering if the engine could be fitted in the car with the transmission, propshaft and an old axle, then rig up a hydraulic circuit to control the brakes on the axle....would that be sufficient load for the engine ? At least that way...I could start the engine once a week / month and load it up..... or am I just mad ?
Elliot
mad.
But never let that stop you.
The other problem I see is that untill you get it on a dyno you will be also running the engine out of tune.
I have seen an auto trans used to load an engine with the output shaft locked and run up in gear. You will need a big ass cooler and offline pump to recirculate the oil to keep it cool. I'm sure there would be a way to also play with the trans valves to vary the load.
Most OEM's only run their engines for 10 - 20 minutes through a load and rev range. When was the last time you saw a new car with a sign in the back window "please pass running in new engine"
I don't see it as a big deal just get it in the car and dyno the whole lot.
But never let that stop you.
The other problem I see is that untill you get it on a dyno you will be also running the engine out of tune.
I have seen an auto trans used to load an engine with the output shaft locked and run up in gear. You will need a big ass cooler and offline pump to recirculate the oil to keep it cool. I'm sure there would be a way to also play with the trans valves to vary the load.
Most OEM's only run their engines for 10 - 20 minutes through a load and rev range. When was the last time you saw a new car with a sign in the back window "please pass running in new engine"
I don't see it as a big deal just get it in the car and dyno the whole lot.
elliotaw
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Cobber,
Wish it was as easy as fitting the engine in the car and dyno-ing the whole lot, but unfortunately theres a big list of to-do's before that can be done, namely :-
Make engine mounts, make extractors, make radiator mounts, make full exhaust system, wire transmission controller, remake the rear end chassis rails - then design build and fit 4 link kit with triangulation kit or watts linkage, shorten 9" axle, design and weld in shock absorbers, get propshaft measured and made, make a fuel tank, cut rear quarters and boot floor then weld in tubs so that my tractor wheels can fit under the bodywork....
then maybe I can take the car as a basic rolling shell to the dyno....
I expect theres over 6 months work there at least......
hehe...
Nice idea about using a transmission as the engine staller though
Elliot
Wish it was as easy as fitting the engine in the car and dyno-ing the whole lot, but unfortunately theres a big list of to-do's before that can be done, namely :-
Make engine mounts, make extractors, make radiator mounts, make full exhaust system, wire transmission controller, remake the rear end chassis rails - then design build and fit 4 link kit with triangulation kit or watts linkage, shorten 9" axle, design and weld in shock absorbers, get propshaft measured and made, make a fuel tank, cut rear quarters and boot floor then weld in tubs so that my tractor wheels can fit under the bodywork....
then maybe I can take the car as a basic rolling shell to the dyno....
I expect theres over 6 months work there at least......
hehe...
Nice idea about using a transmission as the engine staller though
Elliot
V8Datto
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Hey Elliotaw, just a quick question about your transmission and ecu setup
I see your using the original auto with motec computer, how are you going to get the auto to work with out the original ecu?
I know in one of your posts you talked about an ect (im assuming from a crown) but even they have a lot of wires that come directley from the original ecu
What's the plan?
I see your using the original auto with motec computer, how are you going to get the auto to work with out the original ecu?
I know in one of your posts you talked about an ect (im assuming from a crown) but even they have a lot of wires that come directley from the original ecu
What's the plan?
elliotaw
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I'm using a transmission controller made by pcs in the USA.
http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/
Elliot
http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/
Elliot
elliotaw
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Two guys from Motec came round to have a play with my 1uz tonight. They managed to get the engine running a lot better and got her ticking over though it still needs more air than the iscv can supply. I didnt notice two concerns.... :-
Firstly, that the harmonic balancer appeared to not be spinning very smoothly and almost looked 'out of round'. It was chrome plated...I'm wondering if the chroming process has damaged the rubber somehow ? How smooth do they normally run ? I noticed there has been previous threads regarding an aftermarket balancer....did that result in anything ?
Secondly, the oil pressure was about 80 or so PSI at cold which I figured is fairly good. But once the engine warmed right through the pressure dropped down to less than about 40 or 50 PSI. Baring in mind that I have converted the oil pressure output to a hose that then goes to a mechanical pressure gauge....the hose is rigid airline hose so will not expand and give a misleeding reading..but is way to long at the moment and coiled up at the gauge end...I dont know what effect that would have on the gauge reading ?
Does anyone have PSI figures for their engines ?
Elliot
Firstly, that the harmonic balancer appeared to not be spinning very smoothly and almost looked 'out of round'. It was chrome plated...I'm wondering if the chroming process has damaged the rubber somehow ? How smooth do they normally run ? I noticed there has been previous threads regarding an aftermarket balancer....did that result in anything ?
Secondly, the oil pressure was about 80 or so PSI at cold which I figured is fairly good. But once the engine warmed right through the pressure dropped down to less than about 40 or 50 PSI. Baring in mind that I have converted the oil pressure output to a hose that then goes to a mechanical pressure gauge....the hose is rigid airline hose so will not expand and give a misleeding reading..but is way to long at the moment and coiled up at the gauge end...I dont know what effect that would have on the gauge reading ?
Does anyone have PSI figures for their engines ?
Elliot
JustenGT8
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That oil pressure is fine for idle...mine sits around that, a bit lower in fact
V8Datto
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I have a oil guage on mine with a remote mounted oil filter,
has about 1m of flexable hose
Idle pressure is about 75 - 80 psi (idle's high for first 3 min at start up)
When the idle drops down to the 600rpm I get about 40. But reving the engine will push it up to 100psi very quickley.
has about 1m of flexable hose
Idle pressure is about 75 - 80 psi (idle's high for first 3 min at start up)
When the idle drops down to the 600rpm I get about 40. But reving the engine will push it up to 100psi very quickley.
JustenGT8
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you mean per 1000rpm ????? a bit low i would have thought but makes alot more sense than per 100rpm?
haha! sorry! correct, supposed to have read at least every 1000rpm!
In the racecar if we drop below this point (ie 60psi at 6K) its time to bail out and check the sump, lines etc. Mind you, we'll keep racing as long as its got > about 40psi! haha!
In the racecar if we drop below this point (ie 60psi at 6K) its time to bail out and check the sump, lines etc. Mind you, we'll keep racing as long as its got > about 40psi! haha!
elliotaw
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Thanks for the replies re: the oil pressure.
I'm still trying to get the car body to the state where it's rolling with all the driveline installed so it can be taken down the dyno. I wont take up any more space on this forum with the car build as its not really '1uz' related, but if anyone is interested I update the build on my own forum fairly regularly.
Heres the link to the start of the project. You can click to the next page at the bottom of each. 12 pages all up.....
http://www.tickfordportal.co.uk/capripower/bboard/viewtopic.php?t=596
Elliot
I'm still trying to get the car body to the state where it's rolling with all the driveline installed so it can be taken down the dyno. I wont take up any more space on this forum with the car build as its not really '1uz' related, but if anyone is interested I update the build on my own forum fairly regularly.
Heres the link to the start of the project. You can click to the next page at the bottom of each. 12 pages all up.....
http://www.tickfordportal.co.uk/capripower/bboard/viewtopic.php?t=596
Elliot
capn
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as far as the engine loading question, what some friends of mine had done in the past to test rotary engines (to apply load to see at what PSI the seals most often broke) they got and old flywheel and pretty much welded a brake rotor on the back of it. They then got some parts so they could use an arbitrary caliper and hydraulic parts so they could set the pressure and thus the amount of load. Worked very well all except for the part when the apex seals broke and then engine went flying out of thier stand.:Eyecrazy:
but it seems like a simple and effective Idea, its cheap and all thats really required is some junk brak parts and and extra flywheel.
but it seems like a simple and effective Idea, its cheap and all thats really required is some junk brak parts and and extra flywheel.
elliotaw
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The adapter came from earls performance. Nicely made too. Available in cast or fully machined.....I went for the fully machined version. Price wasnt too bad either from what i remember.
Elliot
Elliot
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