Project Thread 3.3ltr whipple into Ls400

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I've heard about these JDM non-turbo 6spd Supras and am curious which diff code it has, if you can find it, or do you know the final drive ratio?

Just curious if it's the same as the turbo 6spd diff's that we have in the USA.
 
All the JDM 6 speeds after 1996.5 (both turbo & n/a series 2) came with 'A series' torsen in 3.27 ratio from the factory.

Before 1996.5 (ie series 1) the 6 speed was only installed on the turbo's and they had the larger 'B series' in them
 
Got the A series part right at least :)

So the later and supposedly torquier (VVTi) model comes with the smaller diff?
 
Wow, I feel for you..... not trying to be a poster child for Andrew, but the kit I bought from him was spot on and we had no problems with alignment the first time we assembled and ran it. My drive system was different than yours however, and consisted of a complete new set of serp pulleys with an 8 rib dampner.

Oddly, once the engine was rebuilt after the first dyno runs, we encountered misalignment somewhere, although all pulleys showed to be in line with a 1.0m straightedge. After a day of watching the 8 rib belt walking off, and trying to figure out where the misalignment was coming from Dennis simply chucked up a scrap of 6061 billet in his lathe and that soon became a new idler pulley with an outboard flange to keep the belt from walking. Still don't know how the misalignment came about, but we've had to shift the supercharger pulley back about 3mm.
 
Hypronet,

I have the same 8 rib drive assembly you have.

I agree some of the spacers didn't line up prefectly but after I swapped a couple around it all went together well. I could have mixed them up when assembling it.

I had to take the studs out of my fan idler and use bolts but it clears by a few mm.

The only spot i'm currently a little conerned about is the cap head bolt at the top that goes into the thermo housing. It just touches the belt. Nothing a small linish won't solve.

All the clearances are close but nothing fouls.

I notice the bolt I refer to above on your set up is stepped into the mounting plate so you won't have that problem.

If the tensioner mounting bolt isn't tightened up and the locating peg in the hloe is can slip and look like it's broken.

I have confidence the 8 rib will drive my 15lb and later (hopefully) 28lb. Plenty of people use ribbed belts as they are quieter, absorb less power and don't spit the dummy when a stone goes through the system.

Some written instructions would also help.
 
Looks promising bro! Hey just looking at those underside shots... weld up those lateral arms... they flex quite a bit. I clamped a flat piece of metal on the open side and fully welded.... eliminated quite a bit of flex in corers. before hand if i took the arm out I could flex it w/ my bare hands! Only reason i say this is because with that whipple + aggressive gearing + TC you are going to have quite the torque monster.... those puny arms could snap lol. I have a couple pics below...

http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10167
 
Hypronet, cheers for the photos; we have an idea what it ought to look like now. On my build we were just about to start on the cogged belt drive, and had been throwing around some ideas.
 
Good point about the keyways, I've been considering it even with the 2.2l Opcon that I have.

I don't know how close we are to the limit with a 20psi pulley, but we have to be getting close, and with the addition of a nonslip cogged belt, we could be in trouble.
 
There's an OEM scoop kit available from Toyota for MKIV Supras. It's not too big, just sort of a "bulge", and looks really good once installed. Thought I had a photo of one but can't find it. Might be an alternative.
 
Here's the Supra scoop as sold by MVP Motorsports in the US. Might be a bit small for what you need.
 


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