should i just get a bigger whipple or double up?

[redrocco]

I currently am running a whipple 1600AX on my 92 1uzfe engine. I am not makeing as much boost as I had hoped (5.5 psi vs. 8 to 10). This is partly due to the tiny crank pully the 1uz has. I have considered swapping it out for the 200AX (almost $3000) or the 245AX (about $5000). I have also considered going with the much cheeper way by eather adding a pair of turbos (about $1200) or a centi style blower (about $800) then a ATA intercooler to feed the current whipple. I would love to see about 15 psi at the engine and I do my own fab work so install is no prob. The ems and fuel system are good to go as well. Its not my only car and I don't care all that much if its simple or not. Any thoughts on what might work out the best?

 

[Lextreme II]

Hard to say.. either route will cause you $$$$$. I would say stick with what you have and enjoy it.

 

[cribbj]

Why not just put a smaller pulley on the supercharger?

Also, if you want to try a larger pulley on the crank, I have one from my early 8 rib setup.

 

[JBrady]

Why not just put a smaller pulley on the supercharger?

Also, if you want to try a larger pulley on the crank, I have one from my early 8 rib setup.

I was thinking the same thing.

Have you dyno'd?

Post some pictures.

 

[JustenGT8]

Forget twincharge...you'll be seeing more like 25psi boost!!! The boost multiplication is based on pressure ratio, not a simple adding of boost. Go with pulley for more boost 1st and maybe add water injection to keep inlet temps under control.

 

[Zuffen]

I don't know what your ultimate goals are but from what I've seen on the varous *UZ Forums you will get much better resuts with turbo's over superchargers.

John ran big boost and couldn't get past 500hp and I run 21.5psi and have fallen well short of the expected power. Both of us stuffed the engines full of the best parts we could get out hands on!

Bang for your buck I'd go the twin turbo route and sell off the supercharger gear to someone else. The equation may work out that it is quite cheap that way.

If I play with another UZ it'll be turbo'd.

 

[XR8tt]

Rod...
I must go get my eyes checked...Lol....

 

[redrocco]

Hey cribbj who did you get to make the dampner for your crank pully? ATI wants a ton for a one off. How much did you want for yours and how big is the OD? I figured a 7.25" to 7.5" crank pully is what I need. I was thinking about a set of 8 rib or gilmer pullys as I am gitting a tiny bit of belt slip now with the 3" 6 rib pully ime running on the whipple now. What did you do for the alt and PS pullys for the 8 rib setup?

Link to the build http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9164&page=3

The pic of my dyno sheet should still be there. The other two things that are killing my power are my stock cams and stock exaust manifolds. Changeing those out as well as spining the charger faster shoud get me to my 400+ HP goal.

 

[JBrady]

Well, the cams did not seem to hold back Justens twin turbo. Exhaust manifolds are poor and should be replaced with something that can breathe.

 

[cribbj]

Hey cribbj who did you get to make the dampner for your crank pully? ATI wants a ton for a one off. How much did you want for yours and how big is the OD? I figured a 7.25" to 7.5" crank pully is what I need. I was thinking about a set of 8 rib or gilmer pullys as I am gitting a tiny bit of belt slip now with the 3" 6 rib pully ime running on the whipple now. What did you do for the alt and PS pullys for the 8 rib setup?

Link to the build http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9164&page=3

The pic of my dyno sheet should still be there. The other two things that are killing my power are my stock cams and stock exaust manifolds. Changeing those out as well as spining the charger faster shoud get me to my 400+ HP goal.

My dampner was provided by Richwood as part of an 8 rib kit for my O-A twinscrew. I noticed it was somewhat larger than the standard 1UZ dampner when I had the two side by side (157mm vs 140mm). There has been some speculation that it's actually a 2UZ dampner because some sources show the 2UZ to have a larger dampner than the 1UZ. Some who actually own a 2UZ disagree with this and say the two engines have the same size dampner.

 

[redrocco]

After many hours of R&D I have come up with a sweet belt drive setup that should solve both the belt slippage and crank to charger ratio problems. I am planing to convert my 6 rib serp to a 32mm/1.25 inch wide "white" goodyear eagle PD drive.
http://www.newenglandbelting.com/GoodyearEagle_TimingBelts.asp

I have come up with the following tooth counts for the crank, alt, supercharger and power steering.

stock 1uz

Crank = 140mm
PS = 129mm 1.09 ratio
Alt. = 60mm 2.33 ratio
whipple = 76mm 1.84 ratio


Eagle PD toothed

Crank = 72 tooth
PS. = 68 tooth 1.058 ratio
Alt. = 30 tooth 2.400 ratio
Whipple = 30 tooth 2.400 ratio

I should be pushing the charger to its limit right around 7000 rpm at the crank which works for me. I was hoping that you all could look over my numbers and ratios to see if im good or way off.

thanks,
Brett

 

[cribbj]

Are you sure that Whipple can handle nearly 17,000 RPM? That seems excessive.....

The rest of the concept looks good. Who's making these pulleys, and how are you changing the crank and P/S pulleys from serp to this system?

I've done something similar, but with HTD pulleys that were made in NZ. I had to send them my crank dampner, P/S pulley, and A/C pulley to use as cores, then they machined those down and shrunk the HTD pulleys on.

 

[redrocco]

I talked to the guys at whipple and they said that the rpm rateings on the 1600AX are 16K continues and 18K max. That means that the whipple will max out at 7500 rpms. The only times that my engine ever sees over 5000 rpm is at the track a few times a year and on the dyno for tuneing. The charger will rarely see more then 12K rpm. I could also use a 32 tooth on the whipple giveing it a ratio of 2.25 and there for increaseing max engine rpms to 8000.

As for the pulleys they are made by goodyear and I think martin. The crank pulley will be done by me in much the same way as yours. However I plan on puting a few spots of weld on then returning and rebalanceing. The PS pulley will be a stock pulley that's turned down till flat and used as a flange to mount the new pulley. The rest will be OTS goodyears with custom hubs. The only question left is how much stuff on the front of the engine is in the way of a 7.164" crank pulley.