1uzfe S13 swap - awful idle, good afr's, code 24.

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braydo25

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usa
Hey guys, I recently did a 1uzfe swap into my s13. The motor is fully rebuilt with arp hardware, acl bearings and oem internals for extreme longevity and mild boost in the near future. I've put about 20 miles on the motor so far, but have a few annoying issues that are effecting drivability.

Firsly, the car idles around 650 when fully warm with a 14.7 to 15.2 AFR and a consistent 40psi oil pressure. If I give the car a quick rev to say 2,000rpm, the motor will drop down below the 650 idle, sound like it wants to die, surge for a second and then come back up to 650. The worst of this is about 50% of the time when I'm driving and start coming to a stop and put my tranny in neutral (Manual tranny), the same thing happens but the car dies instead of surging back up sometimes. I have no idea what's causing it.. I've checked and fixed all the vac leaks I could fine (Doused every part of the intake manifold and intake in carb cleaner to find leaks, only ones I had were at the injector to manifold seals which were cracked, so I replaced those and that fixed that leak).

I do however have some codes.. Most of which I've read don't matter at all and won't throw the car into base map, but I do have one that I know that will - code 24 for the IAT sensor in the maf.

All the codes are.. 24 (iat), 27 (secondary o2), 29 (other secondary o2) and 78 (No fuel pump ecu).

The other problem I'm having is that the car's throttle can be very unresponsive sometimes while driving. If I'm say, in 3rd gear and back off the gas to let the engine decel, and then get back on the gas - there's a very apparent bog like the engine isn't picking up with the throttle opening for a second or two. Like, my foot goes into the throttle - no acceleration for a second, and then it starts to go. Almost like the car cuts power with throttle on for a split second - doesn't always happen, but it's enough to be annoying. Also, it bucks / cuts power for a split second when backed off the throttle and then accelerating in first at a super low speed (like 5mph)..

Any ideas? I'm lost.

My guess is my MAF is on the way out and that's what's caused all the issues - I haven't tried running the car without the maf to see if it would get rid of the bucking and hesitation - but I have a new maf that will be here tomorrow.

Here's a picture of the motor in the car.

oaisS
 
Not sure but your throttle cable looks like its connected to the kickdown . The kickdown I thought goes from the right side of the engine to the throttle. And the accelerator is on the left .
 
IAT fault code usually shows up because of incorrect MAF type or wiring. Wrong type means that the part itself is ok but it may not be compatible with your ECU.
 
Hmm, well the maf is the one that came with the same car / engine / ecu I got as a whole so it has to be right. The engine was originally running in my friend's factory sc400 so that can't be it. I swapped the maf, but I'm still getting code 24 / 31, and now the motor is running SUPER rich 10.0 AFR and surging at idle.. Not sure whats going on? Wiring is good, I have voltage / resistance at the right pins on the ecu.
 
What have you done with the RH side breather under the TB?
Have you checked the ECU for leaking caps? These are a very common failure nowadays. I pretty much always have one (or 2/3/4) to repair and normally keep them in stock now. Other symptoms of failed ECU can be the cutting out , sometimes they drop the 5 volt circuits which can effect the TPS , IAT , AFM and engine coolant temp sensor. A note on this is that if the caps are not leaking it doesnt mean the ECU is good. About 50% of the ones we do the caps have signs of leakage.
I would be finding a known good AFM. I have my own drive vehicle that I use for testing. AFMs can make a massive difference to the driving quality and mixture. The present AFM is giving me around 20% better fuel economy over the last one I tested. Power is also better and idle charactoristics are different too.
Does the engine idle up when cold?
Did you have to adjust the stopper screw to make it idle?
Were the tappets adjusted when it was rebuilt?

Cheers
 
AFM must be totally screwed up to give code 24. I rather believe it's the caps or the loom. Double check it however (compare its p/n with ECU p/n at ToyoDIY).

I would start from checking IAT circuit - E2/THA pins. For example, check if proper resistance can be seen from ECU side of loom, with ECU socket disconnected.
 
Ecu is a new rebuilt unit from a repairer a Lexus that has been fixing their ecu's for years that I know. Engine idles up when cold but I had to adjust the throttle screw on the ecu down a ways to get it to idle around 700 / 650. Won't idle with just a turnof the key, I have to hold the throttle down slightly for a moment so it doesn't fire and die.

I changed the maf to my buddies off a running car and all my codes cleared after and ecu reset and 30 minutes of idle still no code 24/31. Only codes so far are the 27/29 for secondary o2's.

The car still wants to die going into neutral from gear sometimes, and throttle response is sometimes noticeably delayed when shifting between gears. A friend of mine wondered if my timing may be off a tooth? Or my 255 wallbro may be pushing too much fuel for the regulator and overwhelming it? Going to check timing. Can ignition timing be adjusted on the 1uz?
 
Timing can be checked. Put it into base to check it (same as checking for codes). It can't be adjusted with the stock ECU, its just a matter of ensuring all the componants are installed and working correctly.
Can you do a little test for me. Unplug the IAC, connect test light to one of the centre pins , start engine and keep running with throttle for around twenty seconds. Turn off and tell me if the power to IAC turns off straight away. Thanks
 
Oh, also the breather under the throttle body is hooked upto the throttle body like stock. Is that right?
 
Your crank case breather system is messed up then. You either need to run the PCV valve and leave the TB side breather attached so the system can work correctly , which is generally the prefered method. Otherwise blank the TB fitting and vent both tappet cover breathers to atmosphere.
At present if the LH side filter is connected to an open tube you have a unmetered flow of air through the crankcase, meaning the AFM does not see it and correct the fueling to suit. This will cause a lean situation throughout the map.
 
Yep, there's power at the maf. Also, the idle air valve plug has constant power to the correct pin whether the engine is running or not - as long as the key is on for switched ignition (ecu on).

I've also noticed that trying to adjust my idle with the tps, if I adjust it too far clockwise the engine goes lean LIKE CRAZY 18.0/1 or even --- on my aem a/f gauge, all the way counterclockwise it runs really rich (12.0 or less afr). Keeping it adjusted somewhere in the middle will get my AFR's to 14.5 - 15.5 at idle depending on adjustment.. but when it's adjusted here and I give the throttle a quick tap to rev, it hesitates and catches up - like a half second of rev hesitation, where as if it's nearly all the way clockwise where it's running more lean and I give it a quick rev - there's no hesitation but my idle afr's are uncomfortably lean... I'm not sure why this is.

The new maf I used that was working fine early threw a 31 code while I was in the middle of trying to adjust my idle screw / tps to get my idle right to the point where the car wouldn't want to die half the time from a quick rev or going into neutral... AFR's got unpredictable again and were jumping anywhere between 10.0 and 17.0.... So frustrating. Also, I capped off the vent inlet into the throttle body - doesn't seem to have made any difference at all. Am I safe to reconnect it to the throttle body rather than venting the outlet on the valve cover to the atmosphere?..
 
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I recommend going over your wiring diagrams and rechecking your wiring. If set up correctly the idle stop should be left alone and the TPS should be set to the stock positon. Personally I would put the crankcase breather system back to standard to use as a baseline.
 
I'll do that. Also, on the maf plug - I have a 5 pin sc400 maf, the 3 middle pins on the plug have 5 volts with switched ignition, pin 1 and 5 are ground. Does that sound right? Looking at the diagrams it looks right..
 
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I ended up getting the codes cleared with a good maf, car is running good - my only concern now is that the car idle's around 800 rpm, and my afr's at idle bounce between 15.0/afr and 15.5/afr... which seems lean to me. With rev the afr's do what they should and are between 12.0afr and 14.0afr, doesn't lean out or anything. And also, the car's temps go up to 208F (97.7C) after driving a while with load, car runs between 200F (93.3C) and 209F (98.3C).. I have electric fans on the car. Seems a little hot to me? Although I have read the operating temp is between 190F and 210F?
 


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