1uz into 240sx or RX-7
- Thread starter lowboost
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Andrew,
what rotors DON'T like is advanced timing with low RON fuel.
a lot of people used to advance the timing on their rotors with "super", but now that's no longer available and a lot of people are using 91RON (min recommended for rotors has ALWAYS been 95RON) and still trying to run the same tune.
also dimwits pushing 20psi into an unopened engine with stock injectors and expecting to run 10s by sidestepping the clutch at 7k. this causes the rear rotor housing to shift from undue stress and then you break apex seals (or the rear rotor housing cracks, leaks and leans out). this is why people "dowell" their engines, but this just removes more metal from the weak spots that cause the cracking in the first place. the only way to stop housing shift (like a "walking crank" under load) is to build a sump "gasket" out of 12mm plate and have a rich tune on launch to minimise detonation.
wow!
now i know what they mean by 'you learn something everyday'. thanks Drangdin.
if i had to make the choice, id probably go for the rx7, as i think its a fantastic looking car. the nissan has the rear seats though, and that proven drift-ability, and nissan drivers wont call you an idiot for putting a lexus engine in a nissan, whereas alot of mazda enthusiasts ('mazda-baters'?) will take offence to anything that doesnt go bap bap bap bap. i think either way you go its gonnan kick arse.
also, i was quite surprised to read Evil Si's post that his rx7 sits higher with the 1uz than the 13btt. i would have thought the rota would weigh less. interesting.....
lastly, if you're worried about the height of the engine, just have the plenum polished and cut a hole in the bonnet for it to stick through. it would look mean. that, or get some ITB's from www.1uz-quadcam.co.nz, and use shorter trumpets for more clearance.
now i know what they mean by 'you learn something everyday'. thanks Drangdin.
if i had to make the choice, id probably go for the rx7, as i think its a fantastic looking car. the nissan has the rear seats though, and that proven drift-ability, and nissan drivers wont call you an idiot for putting a lexus engine in a nissan, whereas alot of mazda enthusiasts ('mazda-baters'?) will take offence to anything that doesnt go bap bap bap bap. i think either way you go its gonnan kick arse.
also, i was quite surprised to read Evil Si's post that his rx7 sits higher with the 1uz than the 13btt. i would have thought the rota would weigh less. interesting.....
lastly, if you're worried about the height of the engine, just have the plenum polished and cut a hole in the bonnet for it to stick through. it would look mean. that, or get some ITB's from www.1uz-quadcam.co.nz, and use shorter trumpets for more clearance.
sorry to be such an ass, I didnt mean to bring up such a touchy situation. I've had friends that raced rotary motors and blew them up, some motors ran great though. However my friend with a 3rd gen had a street ported motor and it lasted 1K miles, then he did a race ported motor and then it blew up as well!!! I didnt mean to make such a mean statement but I dont care, my friends experience speaks for me.
Jeff
Jeff
well even stock they just are so pig rich they dont like any kind of mods or even weather! I know two types of people, people that have their rotary last 100K miles and people that have theirs last 10K miles X 10 rebuilds. These 100K guys are few and far between, these 10K guys are a dime a dozen.
jeffro
jeffro
I'm doing a 240sx iuzfe swap.
Engine, tranny (r154), flywheel\clutch and driveshaft is lying ready in my garage.
I need bellhousing, aftermarket ecu and two turbos to be able to finish the project. Will begin as soon as the rest is in place.
I would have gladly switched my sx in a rx7 fd if I had the chance. About 3 times the price in Norway.
Engine, tranny (r154), flywheel\clutch and driveshaft is lying ready in my garage.
I need bellhousing, aftermarket ecu and two turbos to be able to finish the project. Will begin as soon as the rest is in place.
I would have gladly switched my sx in a rx7 fd if I had the chance. About 3 times the price in Norway.
Pro
New Member
the rotor's reliability also comes down to the individual driver.
some people believe you can rev a stock engine to 12k all day, so they do and they blow up. then they say, "ok i'll get another". instead of learning from their mistakes, they rev it to 12k all day. that motor goes pop too.
conclusion - rotaries blow up easily, are unreliable and need frequent rebuilds.
this is a common problem. it's called "ignorance" and breeds like wildfire.
that said, the 240SX (200SX in OZ) is still a great car, add a 1UZ and it should be a weapon. trust me, you won't miss the KA24DE at all...!
some people believe you can rev a stock engine to 12k all day, so they do and they blow up. then they say, "ok i'll get another". instead of learning from their mistakes, they rev it to 12k all day. that motor goes pop too.
conclusion - rotaries blow up easily, are unreliable and need frequent rebuilds.
this is a common problem. it's called "ignorance" and breeds like wildfire.
that said, the 240SX (200SX in OZ) is still a great car, add a 1UZ and it should be a weapon. trust me, you won't miss the KA24DE at all...!
Pro
New Member
Peewee said:
Andrew,
what rotors DON'T like is advanced timing with low RON fuel.
a lot of people used to advance the timing on their rotors with "super", but now that's no longer available and a lot of people are using 91RON (min recommended for rotors has ALWAYS been 95RON) and still trying to run the same tune.
also dimwits pushing 20psi into an unopened engine with stock injectors and expecting to run 10s by sidestepping the clutch at 7k. this causes the rear rotor housing to shift from undue stress and then you break apex seals (or the rear rotor housing cracks, leaks and leans out). this is why people "dowell" their engines, but this just removes more metal from the weak spots that cause the cracking in the first place. the only way to stop housing shift (like a "walking crank" under load) is to build a sump "gasket" out of 12mm plate and have a rich tune on launch to minimise detonation.
