Update on Paul Carey UZFE powered Drag Car

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gte

New Member
Messages
338
Location
Maryland
Hey Paul,

Any more info on why the block failed?

Also, if you make such a CNCed block with the possibility for street driving you'd have some potential buyers, such as myself :)

See if you can get a larger then 100mm bore out of it though :)
 

Lextreme

Just call me "Lex"
Messages
12,048
Location
City of Halos
Perhaps a engine girdle will help out the stress. We have the girdle designed but problem would be clearance of the rods, block, oil pan and oil pick up pipe.
 

AeroPC

New Member
Messages
74
Location
Perth, Western Australia
2UZFE block

Davo

The crack is straight through No 4 outer main cap stud area, goes down 2 inches then turns 90 degrees back towards the crank another 2 inches. The whole main would have seperated from the block - it's quite thin under the main area, where it attaches to the block.

We have thought long and hard about this, including going with a brace, or with the new 5.7 block, giving up and going hemi etc. Vic Donnas with the blown alky 1UZFE dragster went through all this years ago. He did all sorts of tricks to strengthen the 1UZFE with no luck. Ultimately we want reliable high horsepower, and now we feel that can only be achieved with a billet block like Donnas made. The block is not a right off - we will repair it and use it in an injected methanol combo we want to set up for my daughter to learn drag racing in.

We have to start with choosing an aluminium grade. Some use 7000 series, others 2000 series, but I think we will run with 6061 T6, and temper to T7 after rough machining. We have to get the 2UZFE measured and 3D modelled into a computer program for the CNC - then a program has to be written to program the CNC mill paths.

I dropped in to see Andrew Kostecki who manufactures CNC heads and blocks for V8 Supercars here in Oz, and we can use some of his technology and parts - like his high performance LS1 Chev main caps, and head stud kit. We will make both a toyota and chev bolt pattern for the gearbox.

We will use .080" liners from LA Sleeve, with O-ring grooves in the top. Allowing .100" between the bores between the sleeves allows us to go 3.900" in bore (LS1 chev), and with our slight offset stroke of 3.285" gives 313 cubes. Not bad at all. Kostecki reckons the 1UZFE crank is the best he has ever seen. We polished ours, so it looks pretty good - but the machine marks in the counterweights he said is very good for dispersing oil off the crank. The crank is heavier than a big block chev.

So we feel we have the crank, rods, pistons, heads, and manifold/blower right - we just need to get a strong block and we can go take on the chevs and hemi's.

Keep posted for progress.

PC
 

gte

New Member
Messages
338
Location
Maryland
I guess my biggest concern is what you thought caused this? Pics might help?

First, do you think the new 5.7 short block will fit the 2uzfe heads?

My concern is that my 2uzfe is going to do the same thing, and that I might as well not even bother building it? My car will be a high hp gasoline car


What do you think the billet parts are going to end up costing?





Davo

The crack is straight through No 4 outer main cap stud area, goes down 2 inches then turns 90 degrees back towards the crank another 2 inches. The whole main would have seperated from the block - it's quite thin under the main area, where it attaches to the block.

We have thought long and hard about this, including going with a brace, or with the new 5.7 block, giving up and going hemi etc. Vic Donnas with the blown alky 1UZFE dragster went through all this years ago. He did all sorts of tricks to strengthen the 1UZFE with no luck. Ultimately we want reliable high horsepower, and now we feel that can only be achieved with a billet block like Donnas made. The block is not a right off - we will repair it and use it in an injected methanol combo we want to set up for my daughter to learn drag racing in.

We have to start with choosing an aluminium grade. Some use 7000 series, others 2000 series, but I think we will run with 6061 T6, and temper to T7 after rough machining. We have to get the 2UZFE measured and 3D modelled into a computer program for the CNC - then a program has to be written to program the CNC mill paths.

I dropped in to see Andrew Kostecki who manufactures CNC heads and blocks for V8 Supercars here in Oz, and we can use some of his technology and parts - like his high performance LS1 Chev main caps, and head stud kit. We will make both a toyota and chev bolt pattern for the gearbox.

We will use .080" liners from LA Sleeve, with O-ring grooves in the top. Allowing .100" between the bores between the sleeves allows us to go 3.900" in bore (LS1 chev), and with our slight offset stroke of 3.285" gives 313 cubes. Not bad at all. Kostecki reckons the 1UZFE crank is the best he has ever seen. We polished ours, so it looks pretty good - but the machine marks in the counterweights he said is very good for dispersing oil off the crank. The crank is heavier than a big block chev.

So we feel we have the crank, rods, pistons, heads, and manifold/blower right - we just need to get a strong block and we can go take on the chevs and hemi's.

Keep posted for progress.

PC
 

LondonBenji

New Member
Messages
284
Location
London, England, UK
Holy crap, you cracked a block, an iron block? :Eyecrazy:

Sorry to hear that dude, hope things pick up okay and it all works out. :eek:uch:


Glad to hear the crank survived and is liked.... has anyone broken a crank yet? :tongue2:
 

AeroPC

New Member
Messages
74
Location
Perth, Western Australia
2uzfe

I am not sure about the 5.7 engine - just that it is an ally block with 6 bolt mains, 4.1 stroke and 3.7 bore. Not sure what heads they use.

I am getting quotes for the block this week.

PC
 

gte

New Member
Messages
338
Location
Maryland
Sweet, let me know what it will cost please

Also, are you able to pin point or speculate what caused this, I'd like to see if I should be concerned about this with my application



I am not sure about the 5.7 engine - just that it is an ally block with 6 bolt mains, 4.1 stroke and 3.7 bore. Not sure what heads they use.

I am getting quotes for the block this week.

PC
 

AeroPC

New Member
Messages
74
Location
Perth, Western Australia
2uzfe

The reason the main journal area cracked in my application (high boost and horsepower) was two fold.
1. The main journal area is very weak. The area between the cap surface area, and where it attaches to the block is thin. There are two large vent holes cast into the area which takes away material. The large bore undercuts the area as well and the radius is not that supporting.
2. The four bolt conversion - machining and installing a second main cap stud - weakened the area. The crack started from the drilled hole.
The block could be modified best for street use with a one piece crank support including the main caps - all in one.

Regards PC
 

BLOWN EA

New Member
Messages
254
Location
AUSTRALIA perth wa
hey paul sorry to here that your block split in you new car i am looking at purchasing one to put a big 1200-1500 single turbo on it but might have to look in to it a bit better
 

gte

New Member
Messages
338
Location
Maryland
Hey PC,

Thank you so much for the reply!

This makes me a bit nervous about installing the 4 bolt mains?

So it sounds like this 1 piece support would be like a girdle almost? Would it be 2 or 4 bolt and are you able to manufacturer one of these? Is there a way we can speak about this off of the forum?




The reason the main journal area cracked in my application (high boost and horsepower) was two fold.
1. The main journal area is very weak. The area between the cap surface area, and where it attaches to the block is thin. There are two large vent holes cast into the area which takes away material. The large bore undercuts the area as well and the radius is not that supporting.
2. The four bolt conversion - machining and installing a second main cap stud - weakened the area. The crack started from the drilled hole.
The block could be modified best for street use with a one piece crank support including the main caps - all in one.

Regards PC
 

AeroPC

New Member
Messages
74
Location
Perth, Western Australia
2uzfe

Here is a picture of a one piece crank support including main caps - it is off a nitro burning bike.





This is maybe an overkill, but would work if you machine a slot from the oil pan rail on the block to fit down inside.

Maybe a brace like this:



We would be able to do this design in conjunction with the ally CNC block, as we will have the co-ordinates.

Regards PC

[email protected]
 

Lextreme

Just call me "Lex"
Messages
12,048
Location
City of Halos
Hello Paul,

The problem with the girdle above would be the problem with the oil pump. Since its a complete unit, this will move the oil pick up pan lower and the oil pump would not bolt on. Secondly we also face the issue of oil pick up pipe clearance. It would be interesting to see what u can come up with.

Thirdly, there are few versions of the 2uzfe and some would have different oil pump configuration.
 

striker

New Member
Messages
603
Location
holland
do not tell me this thing isn't dry-sumped?

away with the oilpan pick up and anything, problem solved!

grtz Thomas
 

turboandrew

Member
Messages
571
Location
Austin, TX
Looking at where the extra 2 bolts would be tapped on the 2UZ, you can really see why this block would crack. That area is a bit thinner than the area where the two original studs are. The 1UZ has extra "meat" where the 2 extra studs are. I personally would not convert to a 4 bolt main on a 2UZ because of this, unless you could somehow beef it up (weld on extra material?)
 

gte

New Member
Messages
338
Location
Maryland
I haven't disassembled my block yet, can you post pics?

Is it every main, or just one particular number?





Looking at where the extra 2 bolts would be tapped on the 2UZ, you can really see why this block would crack. That area is a bit thinner than the area where the two original studs are. The 1UZ has extra "meat" where the 2 extra studs are. I personally would not convert to a 4 bolt main on a 2UZ because of this, unless you could somehow beef it up (weld on extra material?)
 
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