Single Turbo Lexus LS400


Project LS400T

In this project, I am trying to do something that has never been done before in a Lexus LS400. This page is being constantly updated perhaps daily. This page is my documentation of Project LS400T progress diary. I will try to give as much details as possible so you can duplicate this project in your shop or at home. This project will be homemade with very few things are being send out. If you are interested making your Lexus SC400/Soarer or Lexus LS400/Celsior go fast, stay tuned. I hope you can join me with this daring journey. Wish me luck and please feel free to contact our generous sponsors. Without them, this project would not be possible. I thank you all. If you are interested being a sponsor of this project, please contact me.

Full Sponsors:
Turbo Performance Systems - Garrett GT40 Turbo & Flanges
Anderson Audio & Performance - 40 mm Tial Wastegate
High Temperature Silicone - Complete High Temperature Hoses and T-Bolt Clamps
Spark Racing - Oil lines and Fittings

Partial Sponsors:
Custom Coach of America - Custom Intercooler
Split Second - FTC1 Piggyback ECU-Development, Installation & Tuning.
B & E Customs - LM-1 Wide Band Sensor/Reader

Private Donation:
1. Jason Elcan for donating his LS400 exhaust manifolds - www.lextreme.com Member
2. Sniper for donating his spare 1UZFE engine- www.lextreme.com Member

Parts Still Need: Looking for Donation
1. Tial Wastegate Flanges and accompany pipes
2. Now just pretty much labor and towling.

General Overview:
Turbo: Garrett GT40 With Precision .68 Turbine Housing
Wastegate: 40 mm Tial Wastegate
Blow Off Valve: Tial 50mm Blow Off Valve (BOV)
Intercooler: Bar & Plate Custom Front Mount 36" x 11" x 3.5" with 3" in and outlet
Injectors: 390cc from Mitsubishi Eclipse 1990 Turbo Automatic high impedance stock injectors-Ebay but Cleaned & Balanced
Fuel: Walbro 255 L/H with Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator
ECU: Split Second FTC1-Fuel and Timing Control with laptop
Engine: Stock with Cometic MLS Gaskets with 8.5:1 Compression Ratio and ARP Studs
Drivetrain: Stock with modified Lextreme Torque Converter with stall speed at 2800 rpm
Manifold: Flanges are stock with custom log style with ceramic coating both inside & outside.
Goal: 15 psi with 500-525 rwhp in mind.
Discussion: Single Turbo Discussion Thread

Engine & Drivetrain:
+ Custom Ross 8.5:1 forged Pistons with Chrome Moly Rings
+ Custom forged steel rods
+ Federal Mongol Mains and rods bearings
+ ARP Rods Bolts
+ ARP Main Studs and Bolts
+ ARP Head Studs
+ Cometics Multi-Layer-Steel Gaskets
+ Supra Twin Turbo Valve Springs, Retainers and Locks
+ Custom Ported heads with complete 3 angle valve job
+ EGR Delete Kit
+ 175 amps Alternator
+ 1000 Cranking Amps Battery
+ Lextreme Performance Torque Converter
+ Blue Print and Balanced

Forced Induction:
+ Custom Single Turbo header with Hot Jet Coasting
+ 40 mm Tial External Wastegate with1 bar spring setting
+ Tial 50mm Blow Off Valve
+ Garrett GT40 with Precision .68 T04E Housing
+ Custom Made 3.5" x 11" x 27" intercooler
+ Custom Inlet pipes with T-Bolts Clamps
+ 3" Down pipe to two 2.25" exhaust pipe

Fuel & Ignition
+ 8-550 Mazda Rx7 Injectors
+ 255 High Volume Walbor Fuel Pump
+ Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
+ Custom Return Fuel Line
+ Dual 6al MSD ignition units
+ NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
+ Nology Hotwires ignition wires
+ Split Second FTC1 Fuel and Timing Control

Brake and Suspension:
+ Supra Twin Turbo (MKIV) braking system conversion
+ Slotted and Drill Rotors
+ Strutmaster Air Suspension Conversion with 1.5" drop
+ Daizen front brushings

Garrett Turbo: This is the best bang for the bucks turbo out there. Its free spinning wheels and great prices are the attracting features. The bearing spins between standard turbo bearing and ball bearing. I show this turbo to my friend who owns a motorsports shop and he initially thought it was a ball bearing. I told him its not ball bearing but it spins like a ball bearing. I highly recommend this turbo to anyone. With the money you save, you can use the money for something else. Contact TPS for pricings.

03-25-2004
The first step is to replace the ugly intake to a one piece intake by relocating the MAF to the fender area. This project will buildup in the reverse process. Therefore to reduce down time. I took my car to a local muffler shop and did some mandrel bend 3" aluminized steel pipes. I also made a 3/8" female NPT for the ISC along with a bracket for stability . Right now it looks very raw. However with little grinding and coating will make this pipe stands out. This intake pipe will be powder coated (silver) for stock look. Chrome is not my taste. This is a completely one piece intake from the passenger side fender/light housing to the throttle body. With coating, this pipe will be very attractive. Here are some pictures of the intake pipe.

03-28-2004
Finally made a 1.5 hours drive to pick up Sniper's spare engine. This sucker is heavy too, it takes three strong young men to handle this baby into my SUV. Yes, another 1.5 hours drive back and luckily its was 8 am in morning. Now my engine is in my SUV and how am I going to take it down? Friends? Well I went to a local auto part store and they carry engine crane for $169. However, its not worth buying one if I hardly use it. I called few equipment rentals and some do not have it and some local rental sites are closed (Sunday). Luck would have it. I drove around my neighborhood and look for garages with engine crane. A street above my house had their garage opened and an engine crane was calling for me. They are total strangers. I was dispread and I knocked at their door to talked them into letting me borrow it for a day or so. Man, today is my lucky day. What is the probability this would happen? The below engine is from a1992 Lexus LS400 with about 204,000 miles. Perfect for prototyping my single turbo manifold. Thanks Sniper!
''

04-05-2004
While I was away for a business trip, my custom intercooler arrived. When I got back from my trip, there were at least 10 box of parts from the UPS. I was so excited. The first box I opened was the intercooler. Like I stated its 11" x 36" x 3.5" with 3" in and outlet along with few custom specs. Below are pictures of the intercooler out of the car, mock fit in front of the car and after installation. I must say, its a perfect fit. About 50% of the intercooler is hiding in the bumper cover. The intercooler looks smaller, but actually, you are only seeing about 50% of it. Its definitely a sleeper look with plenty of surface area for cooling the hot air from the T70. Speaking of the turbo. I met up with TPS in Atlanta Georgia and pickup the turbo myself. Its beautiful. I highly recommend this beauty. It has the same quality as Garrett and half of the price. I mock fitted the turbo in my battery location. Looking good already.

04-06-2004
Thanks to Tony N. (ACleanSC4) and his cousin Dr.. Mike. Finally the Split Second ECU is in with N/A setting. This unit has lots of potential and tunability. Thanks to Mark and the rest of the crew at www.splitsec.com for a wonderful job. This is an ecu worth of investing. Trust me! If you are thinking about putting in a Apexi, don't waste your money. Once I get my turbo in and wide band oxygen sensor, then we can tune it for 15 psi. I just love the PC capability and control. Thanks Mark. Read more about FTC1. With the new ecu, my car runs very well in N/A form. I just can not image with boost.

04-10-2004
In this project I try to reduce down time therefore the procedures are reverse. Last night I dissembled the Master Power T70 Turbo and exam its internals. All I can say is I am very impress with the quality of craftsmanship and its the best bang for the buck. Earlier I made a bracket to hold up the turbo in place so I can start making the compressor intake pipes, air filter and outlet pipes to the intercooler. The bracket will serve as an exact location where the turbo will seat. Here are some pictures of the turbo internals and pictures of where the turbo will be exactly located. The vision of having a single turbo is coming along as plan. Currently, I am still waiting for the turbo hoses and custom flanges for the exhaust manifold and outlet exhaust adapter in both 3" and 2". I know exactly what you are thinking. The heat will kill everything surrounding it. I will use thermo carpet and wraps in the surrounding areas. I will do that once I have everything in.

04-12-2004
Today we finished the oil lines both inlet and return. Oil inlet is 4-AN and 10-AN return line. They are all stainless steel braided line with Teflon coated internally. I also installed the T4 Flange along with the V-Band down pipe adapter. I also used high temperature 3/8" x 1.1/4" nuts and bolts for the turbine/T4 flange. The inlet oil line is T-Off from the oil pressure sensor near the oil filter. The oil return is tapped into the oil pickup pan with a 1/2" NPT and 10-AN adapter. With 10-AN return oil line will eliminate oil return flow problems. Here are some pictures of the progress. The next step would be connecting the turbo compressor outlet to the intercooler and attaching a 4" 90 degrees intake pipe along with a K&N filter located in the fender.

04-14-2004
Just received the Header Flanges from Carl C. They are laser cut 3/8" stainless steel and it fits perfectly. Thanks Carl! I also lay down all the 1.5" stainless steel 45 and 90 tubes. From short to long elbows. You also notice I mounted the flange into the driver side header and I also mock fit the tubes in. Looking real nice now.

07-8-2004
Finally got my cats flanges after 3 months. They are 3/8" mild steel laser cut. I also took my flanges to a local muffler shop to make me a cross pipe for my single turbo. The cross pipe is made of 2.25" mandrel bend pipes. The cat flanges are 3" and the pipes were expended slightly. Here are some pictures. These pipes will get ceramic coating for heat containment and protection.

08-11-2004
Finally got some time to work on my project. I use mild aluminized 3" pipe is because its easy to work with and 3" is easily obtain. The driver side header is custom made and the passenger side is stay stock. The outlet pipes from the head are 1.5" with 45 degrees. Mild steel is great for welding. Stainless is better but it would be a welding nightmare due to different gas and welding wires. I was fortune enough to spend about 6 hours on this. The Master Power T70 is sitting at about the driver side igniter. The down pipe is 3" and will be coated too. I am still waiting for the Tial Wastegate flanges. O2 sensor bungs in to be welded on. I will also install a wide band O2 bung and sensor to instance air/fuel ratio reading. This wide band will be permanently install for tuning and monitoring. If you need more information about the Innovative Wide Band. If you are interested in the discussion of this topic please see here for temporary pictures

08-13-2004
When www.anderson-audio.com sent me the Tial 40 mm Wastegate, this kit did not include the inlet and outlet flanges. I got two stainless steel flanges for $80. Ouch! Anyway, gotta have it. Tonight I fabricate the wastegate pipes. The inlet I used a 1.5" 90 degree mild steel pipe and cut in an angle to fit into the main exhaust pipe. The flow is very smooth and the split is about 30 degrees. The outlet pipe I used a 1.5" U bend and cut to fit into the curve of the downpipe. I still have little things to be finished before sending it out to the welder. For example would be the rest of the downpipe and openings for the oxygen sensors. Here is my progress:

08-14-2004
Still waiting for more parts like turbo hoses and special reducer and 90 degree elbow. Meanwhile, I use a 4" U bend pipe and cut a small piece to mount the K&N filter. This is done due to the contour of the battery/fuse box area. As you can see, it a clean cut with the turbo hose and clamps.

08-16-2004
Got some time to dissembled all the work and took the pieces to a local professional welder. TIG is what I wanted for high quality weld. I also cut slots on the exhaust flange for heat expansion. Now it time for grinding and ceramic coating. Here are some pictures:

08-16-2004
After I picked up the TIG welded header I tried to let u see how it would look like when all the pipes are assembled. Here you will see the right (passenger) side header stay completely stock. I have friends asked me why not making the right header too. I told them... "why reinvent the wheel" If it works, don't mess with it. With the kind of horse I will be making, a new header is not necessary. Here are some pictures of this setup.

09-03-2004
After two and half weeks of waiting. I finally got my header and pipes back. The pipes were coated with high temperature Sermetal and can withstand high temperature. As you can see, these pipes look a lot better after coating. Its like night and day. Here are some pictures. For installation, we will try to install the pipes without the motor coming out. I have talked to few Lexus Technicians and they said the motor must come out. The reasons they said the engine must come out is because the exhaust manifold studs are on the way. Therefore, the manifold would not clear the studs. We will try to remove the studs and slide the header out. Lets cross our fingers. If the motor comes out, I would expect to pay about $1,000 for labor. If not, it would cost about $400.

09-09-2004
Wow! took my car to a local mechanic shop and instructed them what to do. You can read more about the header removal process. After the mechanic finished his work, the car was tow to a local muffler shop and I install the turbo, wastegate, oil lines, filter and other misc things. The welder make a 3" down pipe that split into two 2.25" that passes under the K-Member. The dual 2.25" pipes than join in a 3" pipe and to the rest of the exhaust. The turbo fit perfectly as plan. When I was making this header, I basically eye balled. We finished the down pipe. However, not enough time for the compressor side pipes. This will be done sometime this weekend.

09-09-2004
After 6 months of work, its finally done. The inlet pipe, the down pipe and all the heat shield. This is not a show car, but its a go car. I am not into those fancy stuffs, but rather functional things. This car is not tune yet, but I did manage to push the car to 6 psi just for test. The car felt great and strong. I can not wait until 15 psi. Here are some pictures of the Lexus LS400T. I will update with you the finally results.

09-12-2004
Currently my mechanic spring is opening up at 12 psi. Although its a 15 psi spring. The car start boosting at 2,000 and achieve 6 psi at 3k and keep on going linearly to 12 psi at 4k. The car pulls like crazy from 2k and beyond. I also enjoy this 50 mm Tial BOV. Unlike most rice bov that blow everything bit of air out to make that bov sound. Tial bov is like sequential and doesn't have that rice bov sound and help my engine from dying. Overall, I am Lextremely happy with the result. I would like to get some forged pistons and turn up the boost. No dyno numbers yet, but soon. I would like to thank all of my sponsors above for support and guidance. Last but not least, my wonderful members. Thank you all.

After more butt tunings I finally got my LS400T dyno again. I went to a local Dynoject facility called Dynamic Racing Solutions (DRS). The dynos were very consistant. The RWHP for all three dynos were about 370 and RWTQ was about 385. The car ran 3 runs on 14.7 psi and last run we up to 1.20 bar. At 1.20 bar we got 399.1 rwhp and 402 rwtq. For 1 bar dyno, I should get little more with SS header (right header). I think the stock passenger side header is very restricted and the limitation is where is it. I strongly believe with a high flow header, this car should see 400 rwhp. As for AFR, its quite good. It is pretty flat line from idle to 4,000 rpm (12.5) and take a dip into mid 11 and come back to about mid 13 at about 6,500 rpm. With little leaning out at around 4,000 to 5,200 and rich it out slightly at redline area should give me little better AFR. I am very confident hitting 400 rwhp with header and little more tuning. All in all, I am pretty happy with the results. The dynos were very consistent and the engine was very smooth from idle to redline.
14.7 psi & 18 psi Dyno (pdf)