Project Thread turbo maifold

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

V8_IS200_marcus

New Member
Messages
342
Location
London-UK
Hi guys, i want to start makeing the manifolds for my Turbos, and as its my first time doing this, 1 or 2 Q,s for you guys, i will be useing SS pipes...but is what i would like to know is there any "right" or "worng" way to makeing a manifold for a Turbo setup?? any tips would be good, in what to do and what not to do?

Thanks
 
It's very hard to say "Wrong" or "Right" because I don't know what you're planning to do. You might list your plan & design first. There're millions things that can be wrong or right. SS pipes are a good choice. Average thick mild steel will also last forever and easier to weld.

Also, I believe your thread is in the wrong section. You might get more responses if you post it in the Forced Induction section, because that's what it's for.
 
I was thinking of doing 4-2-1 for each side, and then have the 2 sides meet just before the Turbo. but is what i would like to know is there a right or wrong way of makeing the 4-2-1 or would i be better makeing it 4-1 then turbo, im thinking of useing 1.1/2" for the 4 then 1.3/4" for the for the 2 and then ending up with 2.1/2 or 2.3/4" for the 1

but if i go with the 4-1 i would use 1.3/4" then 2.3/4" for the 1

what to you guys think, this is my first time trying this so any tips fill free......to let me know


Thanks mate..................could a Mod please move this to the right place!
 
Done; I put it into the Forced Induction Project section, and left redirects to it from Fabrication and also the Forced Induction main directory.
 
First thing that I have to say is if you are going stainless, spend the money and buy 321L or 347L.

If you are looking at going 4-2-1 setup, dont waste the time going to the "1" part of it, just go 4-2 and then use divided entry turbine housing. This will allow for easier fabrication and also allows you to keep the turbo closer to the motor (better overall performance).
 
First thing that I have to say is if you are going stainless, spend the money and buy 321L or 347L.

If you are looking at going 4-2-1 setup, dont waste the time going to the "1" part of it, just go 4-2 and then use divided entry turbine housing. This will allow for easier fabrication and also allows you to keep the turbo closer to the motor (better overall performance).


Thanks for you input mate........yea you have a good point there about missing out the "1" part, and make it 4-2 then Turbo, should save me abit of time as well Thanks :)

is the 321L or 347L the best then? forgive me for asking but this is my first manifold, that i have had to make.....
 
is the 321L or 347L the best then? forgive me for asking but this is my first manifold, that i have had to make.....

Yes, but if you don't have experience with TIG welding of stainless steel and 'back gassing' then stick with MS. You will end up with an expensive piece of junk.

A poorly done weld in stainless has less strength and is more prone to cracking than a poorly done MS weld.
 
rms is 100% correct, a poorly welded stainless assembly is nothing more then junk.

as for 321L or 347L being the best, basically yes. The best would be 625 Inconel, but it happens to be the most exotic material used in exhaust systems and is not need, not to mention that it is also one of those things that if you have to ask how much, then you probably cant aford it. Its pretty much only used by F1 and Indy teams.

Back to the 321L and 347L stainless steels, they are what are called stabilized grades of stainless and withstand higher temps then the commonly used 304L grade. The main problem with the more cost effiecienct 304L is that it is highly prone to Carbide Precipitation. Carbide Precipitation usually accures at the weld joint due to the temps involves with welding. When this accures, it weekens the welded joint and craking accures along with its anti-corrosive properties diminished.

There is a lot more that goes into explaining this and why it happenes, but unfurtunitly I do not have the time at the moment to explain. If you want a better understanding, go Burns Stainless ( www.burnsstainless.com ) and read thier tech articals. They have an artical that goes into detail about this.
 
Thanks guys, i should of pointed out all i will be doing is tacing it in place, and then taking it to a guy who makes hotrods :) to tigweld it all ..
 


Top