Started fabricating new oil pan

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200sx-v8

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I just started on fabricating a new oil pan for my 1uz\180sx project.
Stainless flange from Elliot on this forum, and 1mm stainless plates.

What do you think?
 
Hi, I see you decided to try and bolt the larger mounting positions towards the rear of the engine from the outside. On mine, I've passed tubes through the sump itself and they bolt from under the main pan.

Who is going to do your welding? Mig or Tig ?

If I can offer any advice, I would suggest you make the whole sump and weld everything apart from the bottom plate to completion, then rework the part that you have made so far so that it sits flat again on the plate. When you come to weld the whole assembly to the plate, use a Mig and weld from the inside. If you weld the outside you will run a huge risk of getting too much heat into the stainless and it will pull and shrink like a bast**d. Run as low amps as possible to do the job and get penetration.

Elliot
 
woo hoo!!!!! another 1UZ in a S13, woooooooo hooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!




Im guessing you are redoing the pan to make it fit with the sway bar?
 
sniper said:
woo hoo!!!!! another 1UZ in a S13, woooooooo hooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!
Im guessing you are redoing the pan to make it fit with the sway bar?
My engine is from a sc400, so it has the rear sump. I need a front sump, and I want a sump with more oil capasity.

Elliot: Thanks for your tips.

'I,m using mig to keep it together, and will then have a pro welder do the job with tig.
 
I chose stainless for my own project and had a few extra sump plates made up at the same time. That's why there are a few other stainless ones being made up by other people.
Obviously it requires a lot of skill to be able to weld stainless without it shrinking and distorting but if done right should be as strong as an ox.

Just to reiterate what i said before, please try and 'not' tack weld the main plate to the rest of your sump until everything except the main plate has been fully welded. Doing it this way will at least allow the sump to shrink and distort and you can re-work it so it fits the main plate. If you tack weld the whole assembly as one piece and then weld it fully, it will bend out of shape very easily even if you use the best tig welding expert in the world.

Elliot
 
Hi there
when I do difficult S steel sheet metal jobs i get a cold wet rag and lay it
on the job close to ware you are welding and this will stop the job from moving
to much
there is allso another way to take heat out of the job is to clamp a pice flat copper
plate to the flang of the sump well you weld the sheet metal it will also help
stop porosity from coming through the sheet metal.
good luck with your project
 
Here is how the oil pan is looking now. The rest I have to wait with untill the engine is in the car. That is because I want the sump to be as big as possible in between the crossmember and the swaybar.
 
I can get the base plate made up in aluminium. I can get a price once you let me know how thick material you want to go. I've seen some ali ones upto 20mm thick !

Elliot
 
hi elliot
I was thinking of using 6mm. Are these base plates scanned off the origional sump or are they drawn on a cad program.
Do you think 6mm would be sufficient. mabye you could price 8mm also.
Thank you for your time
Tom
 
Hi again. The plates were drawn up on CAD with dimensions taken from a stripped engine. Personally, I think 6 may be on the thin side as you need some rigidity between the sump and plates that make up the rear section for the bellhousing mating. (hope that makes sense). I will try and get you some price quotes early next week.

Elliot
 
Wow! This really looks good. Haven't thought of that option myself.


Will definately be taking this in regard.

Do you happen to know the space between the crossmember and the swaybar? I'd like to know if it's the same as with the s14.
 
Hi again. Sorry for taking so long to get the price quotes. Ok here we go :-

1 Sumpl plate
1 paper gasket
2 triangular bellhousing mount plates
1 torque convertor cover plate

in 6mm stainless steel = AUS$250
in 6mm Aluminium = AUS$220
in 8mm Aluminium = AUS$255

Elliot
 
Thank you for getting these prices for me. I am currently trying to get the origional sump welded, so i will see how it turns out but if it is no good then i will probably get a 8mm base off you. at least i could get it machined if i made it from scratch.
Thanks again
Tom
 
Sorry, its not available for sharing. I think someone asked the same question a while ago. While I'm never going to be a millionaire, I still need to pay the bills, and thats how I make my pennies.

Elliot
 


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