Can anyone help me get started with megasquirt?

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

speedlab

New Member
Messages
51
Location
Vancouver Canada
Hi guys,

I've read so much that my eyes are almost bleeding. Seems there are a buttload of ways to do it, but now i've over-researched and have gotten myself quite confused.

I have a '92 1UZ in an FC RX7. Its attached to an R154 box. Should be mounted this week, and then its time to figure out some kind of management.

The car WILL be turbo'd, but maybe I will get it running NA first.

I pulled the motor from a donor SC400. I have the motor, all sensors, and loom.

Now i'm looking for a simple, effective setup.

What sensors can I ditch from the motor?

I assume I am better to swap out the MAF for a MAP system (or at least upgrade the MAF)

Should I use my loom, or build one from scratch? I am swapping out the injectors so will at least need new injector clips. If I loose a couple of the sensors I might as well make myself a new loom I guess.

What megasquirt should I buy? I'm assuming the 3. What addons are needed?

Ford EDIS or Wasted Spark?

Please guys, any help is REALLY appreciated, as I have read myself into a hole here....

Thanks in advance!

Rich
 
Find some one to tune it and ask them what you should use. Megasquirt work fine when set up correctly but are by no means a professional ECU. I was unhappy with the inconsistant mixtures. In saying that a good tuner with a poor ECU will normally still get a better job than a poor tuner with a good ECU. The tuner is more important than the ECU. Cheers
 
Don't know sorry. Customer supplied. I wired a few months ago on the back of the ute it was fitted to. No idle speed control. Made 160rwkw on a 4x4 series 2 motor. I have a link xtreme for my vehicle. Cheers
 
Inherent inconsistencies with megasquirt units are due to the skill level of the assembler. I've been running mine all summer with almost no hiccups at all, well I have one in that once a minute or so it loses track of the cam signal and misses, but Its just noise in the sensor signal and I've been too lazy to add a resistor to smooth the signal

Over 500whp@12psi on an unopened engine so far
 
OK so I spent the day researching and tearing apart the motor that I have.

Is this correct:

1) All I need to run it is CAS, TPS, and IAC
2) From there I can cut a tooth off of my distributor wheel
3) I then install wasted spark or ford edis
4) It should run

Any help?
 
Is there anything missing from this shopping list:

MS230-K $260 Megasquirt-II kit with V3.0 PCB
JimStim-K $59.00 JimStim MegaSquirt Stimulator with Wheel Simulator - Unassembled
StimPower $8.99 Power supply for Stim
jumper.1 $7.00 Jumper 10 pack for JimStim
MK-Pullup $2 Pullup resistors mod-kit
MK-PWMIAC $7.50 PWM idle air control mod kit
MK-bip373 $8.50 BiP373 ignition driver mod-kit
MSHarness $67 8' wiring harness
IATwPiggy $22.25 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
38NPT-Bung_A $9 Aluminum bung for IAT sensor (Also available in stainless steel)
TuneCable $5.50 6' DB9 tuning cable
USB-2920 $22.50 (Only needed if your laptop doesn’t have a true DB9 port)
Subtotal without wideband -- $479.24

??
 
OK So it looks like there is no need to cut a tooth....

"Was confused how MS would pick up it's reference point if there was not a missing tooth but the cam sensor has answered that. "

OK so I spent the day researching and tearing apart the motor that I have.

Is this correct:

1) All I need to run it is CAS, TPS, and IAC
2) From there I can cut a tooth off of my distributor wheel
3) I then install wasted spark or ford edis
4) It should run

Any help?
 
sometimes no matter how good the install is u still get issues
afew ecus below the 1000 dollar mark do not have good enough
resolution sometimes
enough for yr average Joe blow but some good tuners like
the better resolution which u get with 2000 plus dollar ecus
isn't the ford Edie single coil setup
means u need to fit a dizzy to the motor
easier to buy an aftermarket system that will just work straight
on all 1uz sensors
spend couple hundred on ecu then fking round getting bits here
and there to dodgey something up I think is waste of time
spend bit more and get something where u need minimu of fuss
fitting and no machining sheit to get different sensors to work
pulling crank sensor chopper wheel off so u can cut a tooth
off is fking were of time buy an ecu that uses all 1 uz sensors
I recon the less u need to strip a motor the more reliable it will be
once a motor is pulled down it's never the same as what Toyota built it
 
My ms2 setup runs all stock unmodified ignition setup, combination of the 12 tooth crank and one of the cam sensors, fires stock ignitors, coils and distributors
 
And sorry I didn't mean for it to sound like I was pushing mine on you, just clarifying that the megasquirt can be configured to control the factory dual dizzy/dual vr sensor configuration
 


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