Can anyone help me get started with megasquirt?

[speedlab]

no not at all... I'm actually quite surprised that it can be configured to work with everything.

I dont mid changing things up at all. I don't care if I use factory sensors or not. I'm just looking for a simple way to get it running somewhat reliably. I have no probs soldering, and would quite enjoy building an MS (I love to know how things work)

My whole car is being built on a budget. Thats fun to me.

For me, megasquirt seems to fit the bill well.

I've tuned many OEM ecu's but never really tried my hand at a standalone.

My only real issue is that I have read too much, and overcomplicated it for myself. Now i'm just trying to get it back to basics. I spent yesterday tearing down the motor to what I need to get my head around stuff.

Anyway, sorry for this boring post - I really do appreciate any and all input that people provide, but unless a link or something comes along for the same price as a MS, I'll be using MS, and will figure it out one way or another.

 

[speedlab]

Now on another note, I read somewhere last night that if you use EDIS, you can't set a rev limit. Is that true?

 

[stevieg]

Now on another note, I read somewhere last night that if you use EDIS, you can't set a rev limit. Is that true?

cannot use spark cut but still can use fuel cut

steve

 

[speedlab]

ahhh i guess there is nothing stopping you from using a fuel cut.

 

[gloverman]

Im not a fan of fuel only cuts. Especially if the vehicle is turbo. Last thing you want on a turbo engine is to have a big lean out at high revs. Cheers

 

[RJSzynal]

I have MS3 with the MS3X board on my otherwise stock soarer V8 and I felt the same before installing it after reading everything, once it came to installing it though it was actually really easy and I use stock everything.
I've just got a wideband O2 sensor to sort the fuelling out (the map I have from america runs a bit rich and I can't get over 16MPG with it).

The MS3 and MS3X gets engine speed from the crank sensor and engine position from one of the cam sensors. There is a MAP sensor built into the MS but I don't think it's suitable for turbo applications.
I have the stock IAC valve wired in too but I have to wait before starting my car for a second or two else it gets the position wrong, I turn the key to the running position then wait before doing the starter.

If you have all the stock ignition components it may be easier to use those as you'd have the full control of spark including limiter, mine works great. You basically fire the two coils in an alternating pattern and the distributors send it to where it needs to go making it even better than wasted spark as there is only spark in one cylinder at a time.

I, too, love budget performance, getting performance gains for a fraction of what other people are paying is more fun than pure performance.

Good Luck
Robert

 

[speedlab]

Yeah I totally agree. I'm pretty much set on a wasted spark setup...

Im not a fan of fuel only cuts. Especially if the vehicle is turbo. Last thing you want on a turbo engine is to have a big lean out at high revs. Cheers

 

[speedlab]

I just bought this schwack load of stuff that DIYAutoTune recommended. I got an 18% off discount code through facebook, so I figured I'd might as well get myself into the game.

My plan is this:

Run Crank Sensor, TPS, and my new AIT

Somehow figure out some kind of wasted spark setup.

I figure once I get going, i'll see how it unfolds, and I can add / delete as necessary.

I have an AEM Uego wideband.

MS230-K $260 Megasquirt-II kit with V3.0 PCB
JimStim-K $59.00 JimStim MegaSquirt Stimulator with Wheel Simulator - Unassembled
StimPower $8.99 Power supply for Stim
jumper.1 $7.00 Jumper 10 pack for JimStim
MK-Pullup $2 Pullup resistors mod-kit
MK-PWMIAC $7.50 PWM idle air control mod kit
MK-bip373 $8.50 BiP373 ignition driver mod-kit
MSHarness $67 8' wiring harness
IATwPiggy $22.25 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
38NPT-Bung_A $9 Aluminum bung for IAT sensor (Also available in stainless steel)
TuneCable $5.50 6' DB9 tuning cable
USB-2920 $22.50 (Only needed if your laptop doesn’t have a true DB9 port)

I have MS3 with the MS3X board on my otherwise stock soarer V8 and I felt the same before installing it after reading everything, once it came to installing it though it was actually really easy and I use stock everything.
I've just got a wideband O2 sensor to sort the fuelling out (the map I have from america runs a bit rich and I can't get over 16MPG with it).

The MS3 and MS3X gets engine speed from the crank sensor and engine position from one of the cam sensors. There is a MAP sensor built into the MS but I don't think it's suitable for turbo applications.
I have the stock IAC valve wired in too but I have to wait before starting my car for a second or two else it gets the position wrong, I turn the key to the running position then wait before doing the starter.

If you have all the stock ignition components it may be easier to use those as you'd have the full control of spark including limiter, mine works great. You basically fire the two coils in an alternating pattern and the distributors send it to where it needs to go making it even better than wasted spark as there is only spark in one cylinder at a time.

I, too, love budget performance, getting performance gains for a fraction of what other people are paying is more fun than pure performance.

Good Luck
Robert

 

[hrforever]

Speedlab, looks like you and I are at the same point. I've just received my MS-III with MS3X and am looking to set it up initially to run NA with sequential injection and CoPs, just to make things interesting. Once this is a proven runner, its onto the single turbo. From all the reading and investigating the only major wiring difficulty seems to be the 6 wire IAC valve but with a bit more reading, I'm sure this can be resolved.

 

[speedlab]

Bingo thats my plan too! What turbo are you running?

My MS arrived in the mail yesterday. I'm waiting for a rainy day to stay indoors and put the thing together....

 

[hrforever]

At this stage the final product is still in the planning as I'll concentrate on the ecu but I know it won't be over the top as I'd still like to use it around town an the occasional trip.

 

[speedlab]

haha same plans as me... i'm trying to build a good all around car that I can have some fun in, but still drive around the city.

My gearbox mounted to my motor today.. w00t. Hopefully get most of the work done to finish the mounts tomorrow and have it sitting in the car.

Then its time to get my head around this big box'o'megasquirt I have sitting on my desk and make some sense of it. Really no reason I cant fire it up in the next couple of weeks (apart from my laziness haha)

 

[hrforever]

I have a couple of places I have to take my car to over the coming month or so so the car will have to wait for its megasquirt xmas present. Will be interested to see how you go.

 

[speedlab]

haha hopefully i have mine figured out by xmas... this is starting to look like some really voodoo magic

 

[speedlab]

I started assembling the megasquirt last night. I finished the Jimstim, and ran out of solder.

Lots of fun putting it together!

 

[gloverman]

This is what megasquirts are all about. Someone with time to learn lots about electronics and EFI. You will learn heaps. Cheers

 

[hrforever]

If there's any hints on connecting the TPS and IAC that would be great. My wiring diagram has these two components missing.

 

[sideshow]

oh come on the tps is the easiest senor to hook up

4 wires
one end is brown this is earth
next wire is idle switch not needed
next wire is signal
next wire is 5v

 

[hrforever]

Thanks. Its easy when you have a starting point, but I don't have a brown wire. Also the wiring diagrams on Lextreme that I'm using do not have the same colour combinations so without the drawing of the unit to go by, I'm unsure which is which. The TPS plug has the following wires 1-black/white (-neg?), 2-red/yellow(not needed?), 3-yellow/black(signal?), 4-blue/red(5v?).

Also whilst I'm at it the IAC plug has these wires 1-black/white, 2-black/red, 3-yellow/green, 4-pink or tan, 5-black/red, 6-green/yellow. Wiring is on a 95 SC400 motor.

 

[sideshow]

not sure on the iac as i dont think ive had to wire em up direct to aftermarket ecu
i normally leave std ecu to sort idle out as nothing does as good a job
tps blue/red is normally 5v
so what u said is correct