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- 5,631
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
Jim,
Long drive form Melbourne!
Particularly at 2,500RPM!
Long drive form Melbourne!
Particularly at 2,500RPM!
not idling or reving correctly
- Thread starter dar_sbb
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
dar_sbb
Member
- Messages
- 94
- Location
- Melbourne, Australia
i wish i could lol...
i know what u mean... it drive perfect till the limiter.
i got a guy that does CRS's electrics... he says he can get it running
i know what u mean... it drive perfect till the limiter.
i got a guy that does CRS's electrics... he says he can get it running
bdangerous
New Member
- Messages
- 13
- Location
- Central West NSW Australia
how did you go with your issues???....listen to what jim says, i had the same problem and solved it myself and i'm and old fart that's only ever played with big block chevs and carbies.you've been told how to fix it, check the diagnostic box with those connections and i'll put money on it that it's a black/red wire at the ecu that req's power with key on, not crank....it will supply power to 4 inj, the idle air motor and your airflow...check for brittle wiring too, i found a lot of wires that haven't stood up to the heat real well and have cracked the insulation and corroded thru...if not pay the money for the alldatadiy.com schematics, they are the factory diagrams and once you figure out how to read 'em it's simple as........
- Messages
- 5,631
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
38 and calling yourself old.
dar_sbb
Member
- Messages
- 94
- Location
- Melbourne, Australia
the issue is im not getting any power to the diagnostics box to check the codes...
i got a guy to have a look at it so just waiting for some free time to drop it off
i got a guy to have a look at it so just waiting for some free time to drop it off
- Messages
- 5,631
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
If you don't have power at the diagnostics box you're obviously short a power feed into the ECU.
Simple to check so go for it.
Simple to check so go for it.
u dont need power to diag box for checking codes
ther eis a pin in the diag box called +b if u have 12vs to this it means u have 12vs to the idle motor and to gbox
u do nothing else on this terminal
to get codes u just have to bridge te1 to e1
or just bridge te1 to ground
this will get codes to flash
but u need to have the check light connected properly too for it to work
anyway there is fuking hsitload of info on getting codes all over this great wide web
maybe study how all this shiet works and it will help greatly
otherwise every bloody time something goes wrong its instabtly off to the forums to ask someone who cannot see the bloody car try to solve a problem that is harder than finding a needle in china while the bloody olympics are on
anyway buy a fuking book and study it
threads like these just go on for months and months and unless u learn u wont go far
this shitls me all the time
ther eis a pin in the diag box called +b if u have 12vs to this it means u have 12vs to the idle motor and to gbox
u do nothing else on this terminal
to get codes u just have to bridge te1 to e1
or just bridge te1 to ground
this will get codes to flash
but u need to have the check light connected properly too for it to work
anyway there is fuking hsitload of info on getting codes all over this great wide web
maybe study how all this shiet works and it will help greatly
otherwise every bloody time something goes wrong its instabtly off to the forums to ask someone who cannot see the bloody car try to solve a problem that is harder than finding a needle in china while the bloody olympics are on
anyway buy a fuking book and study it
threads like these just go on for months and months and unless u learn u wont go far
this shitls me all the time
gloverman
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 3,140
- Location
- Hamilton. New Zealand
Sideshow yu may not need power to the diagnostic box but by any chance are the diagnostic box and the air flow on the same circuit. No power at diagnostic box means it's not wired correctly. I see it all the time in NZ. If you don't have spark on all cylinders you have another problem as well. Good luck cheers
air flow meter has all wires going to the ecu
no part of the air flow wires need to be connected if the loom is intact
power on the black/red powers up idle motor the gbox solenoids 3 and 4
the purge solenoid and maybe afew more olenoids
nothing else
maybe the very late 1uzs with the different air flow might run 12vs but my diags are in car and cant be fukt goin now to get them
i dont mind helping on here but shits me when people pay a shop to wire their car
and they fuking charge too much and then give cars back to custome rwith prob and say fix it yrself
once a post on here goes onto the 2nd page the prob will never get fixed cause everyone is over it especially me
i might be rude when it comes to forums but i always make sure my work is 200% right before i send it out
anyway enough **** i have to go work and someone else can fix this prob
no part of the air flow wires need to be connected if the loom is intact
power on the black/red powers up idle motor the gbox solenoids 3 and 4
the purge solenoid and maybe afew more olenoids
nothing else
maybe the very late 1uzs with the different air flow might run 12vs but my diags are in car and cant be fukt goin now to get them
i dont mind helping on here but shits me when people pay a shop to wire their car
and they fuking charge too much and then give cars back to custome rwith prob and say fix it yrself
once a post on here goes onto the 2nd page the prob will never get fixed cause everyone is over it especially me
i might be rude when it comes to forums but i always make sure my work is 200% right before i send it out
anyway enough **** i have to go work and someone else can fix this prob
gloverman
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 3,140
- Location
- Hamilton. New Zealand
I agree - I miss out on jobs cause my quote is higher than someone elses then have to tidy up the mess when it's not right. If there is no power at the diagnostic box then I am sure there is a power feed missing. I have seen it in the past but don't have my diagrams handy as I am in Sydney for the weekend. I would ask the shop who wired it to have another look. Cheers
dar_sbb
Member
- Messages
- 94
- Location
- Melbourne, Australia
ok guys... problem solved. Wiring was ok but the ignitors that were given with the motor were not correct and causing the issue!!
thanks guys for all the info
thanks guys for all the info
dar_sbb
Member
- Messages
- 94
- Location
- Melbourne, Australia
my model was for the ignitors with the 123 on them.
at the start i was given the wrong ignitors and the car wouldnt rev past 2500rpm
also check that all the wires are going to the right spots on the ignitors... as im not using the plug... one came out and i plugged it into the wrong one and it caused it not to run properly aswell.
try unplugging afm and running it and see how it runs... i did this to mine and it ran good
at the start i was given the wrong ignitors and the car wouldnt rev past 2500rpm
also check that all the wires are going to the right spots on the ignitors... as im not using the plug... one came out and i plugged it into the wrong one and it caused it not to run properly aswell.
try unplugging afm and running it and see how it runs... i did this to mine and it ran good
I'll give it a go but I was playing with it tonight and it seems to be retarding the timing 30 degrees at 2500 rpm my igniters pluged in but I didn't know if I grabed the wrong ones. the wrecker had several ls400 and mine is obdII. I'm getting very frustrated.
