No kidding! @gloverman you should be posting more of your videos, man!
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
isturbo
New Member
Great thread to revisit from a 2026 perspective -- a lot has changed in terms of what's available and what's actually worth the money.
For a freshly rebuilt 1UZ where you don't want to tear back into it, here's the honest list IMO from best return on investment to worst:
1. Coil-on-plug conversion -- highest value mod on this list
The early 1UZ distributor system is the single biggest ignition limitation on these motors. A COP conversion gives each cylinder its own dedicated coil, stronger spark, better idle quality, better throttle response, and eliminates a failure-prone distributor. Kits are mature and well-documented now. Budget $350 to $500 for a quality setup. This is the first thing I'd do on any non-VVTi 1UZ regardless of power goals.
2. Headers
The stock manifolds are genuinely restrictive and the gains from long-tube headers are real -- typically 15 to 25 rear-wheel horsepower on an otherwise stock motor. Shorty headers are easier to package and still add 8 to 15hp. Pair with a 2.5 inch or larger exhaust from the collectors back. This combination is the single best bang-for-buck power upgrade and it's entirely external -- the rebuilt internals stay untouched.
3. Cold air intake
Worth doing but less dramatic than headers. The stock airbox is restrictive, particularly on the SC400 where packaging is tight. A proper cold air setup pulling from outside the engine bay is worth 5 to 10hp and noticeably sharpens throttle response. Don't bother with a drop-in panel filter alone -- the plumbing matters as much as the filter.
4. Intake manifold port matching
The factory manifold has a slight mismatch at the head ports that limits flow especially at higher RPM. A machinist can port match for $200 to $350 and it's a worthwhile complement to headers. Not transformative on its own but adds up when combined.
5. Throttle body bore and polish
DIY job with sandpaper and patience. The stock TB has room for a few mm of extra bore. Free to cheap, modest gains, zero risk to the rebuild.
6. A proper tune -- do this last, not first
Every mod above leaves power on the table without a tune to match. The stock ECU cannot properly compensate for the airflow changes from headers and intake. In 2026 a Link G4X or Haltech Elite will run your 1UZ better than anything available in 2012, and both platforms have mature base maps for this motor. Budget $2,500 to $3,500 for the ECU fitted and tuned. This is where the rest of the list pays off.
On the nitrous:
35hp shot on a fresh rebuild is reasonable but make sure the fuel system is keeping up under the shot -- the factory fuel pump can be borderline under nitrous demand. A Walbro 255lph is cheap insurance and pairs naturally with the upgraded injectors you already have.
What not to waste money on:
Cheap piggyback ECUs that claim big numbers. They're blunt instruments compared to what a proper standalone costs now. Underdrive pulleys -- marginal at best. Any intake that's just a cone filter on the stock airbox without cold air plumbing.
The COP conversion plus headers plus a 2.5 inch exhaust and a tune will take your freshly rebuilt motor from 290hp to somewhere in the 330 to 360hp range depending on the specific setup -- all without touching the internals. That's the path I'd take.
For a freshly rebuilt 1UZ where you don't want to tear back into it, here's the honest list IMO from best return on investment to worst:
1. Coil-on-plug conversion -- highest value mod on this list
The early 1UZ distributor system is the single biggest ignition limitation on these motors. A COP conversion gives each cylinder its own dedicated coil, stronger spark, better idle quality, better throttle response, and eliminates a failure-prone distributor. Kits are mature and well-documented now. Budget $350 to $500 for a quality setup. This is the first thing I'd do on any non-VVTi 1UZ regardless of power goals.
2. Headers
The stock manifolds are genuinely restrictive and the gains from long-tube headers are real -- typically 15 to 25 rear-wheel horsepower on an otherwise stock motor. Shorty headers are easier to package and still add 8 to 15hp. Pair with a 2.5 inch or larger exhaust from the collectors back. This combination is the single best bang-for-buck power upgrade and it's entirely external -- the rebuilt internals stay untouched.
3. Cold air intake
Worth doing but less dramatic than headers. The stock airbox is restrictive, particularly on the SC400 where packaging is tight. A proper cold air setup pulling from outside the engine bay is worth 5 to 10hp and noticeably sharpens throttle response. Don't bother with a drop-in panel filter alone -- the plumbing matters as much as the filter.
4. Intake manifold port matching
The factory manifold has a slight mismatch at the head ports that limits flow especially at higher RPM. A machinist can port match for $200 to $350 and it's a worthwhile complement to headers. Not transformative on its own but adds up when combined.
5. Throttle body bore and polish
DIY job with sandpaper and patience. The stock TB has room for a few mm of extra bore. Free to cheap, modest gains, zero risk to the rebuild.
6. A proper tune -- do this last, not first
Every mod above leaves power on the table without a tune to match. The stock ECU cannot properly compensate for the airflow changes from headers and intake. In 2026 a Link G4X or Haltech Elite will run your 1UZ better than anything available in 2012, and both platforms have mature base maps for this motor. Budget $2,500 to $3,500 for the ECU fitted and tuned. This is where the rest of the list pays off.
On the nitrous:
35hp shot on a fresh rebuild is reasonable but make sure the fuel system is keeping up under the shot -- the factory fuel pump can be borderline under nitrous demand. A Walbro 255lph is cheap insurance and pairs naturally with the upgraded injectors you already have.
What not to waste money on:
Cheap piggyback ECUs that claim big numbers. They're blunt instruments compared to what a proper standalone costs now. Underdrive pulleys -- marginal at best. Any intake that's just a cone filter on the stock airbox without cold air plumbing.
The COP conversion plus headers plus a 2.5 inch exhaust and a tune will take your freshly rebuilt motor from 290hp to somewhere in the 330 to 360hp range depending on the specific setup -- all without touching the internals. That's the path I'd take.
ivan129
BlownZX
Its good to see someone try to breath some life into this forum. Its been lacking for sometime.
It would seem that many members have either moved onto other forums or sit out of conversations.
I do have some comments to add to your best bang for buck mod list. Not trying to sound like a know it all
1. A COP conversion requires an aftermarket ECU. You can not run COP from the OEM ECU.
In my view, if the engine is stock and assuming it runs ok, the best bang for buck is to check / clean / replace the dizzy caps, rotors and plug leads. Fit a new set of plugs and gap correctly. Always run 98 RON fuel, this is a must. Remove any restriction in the exhaust by fitting flow through mufflers, open the air box to cooler air at the front of the car and replace the stock paper air filter with a reusable K&N type.
A link or Haltech ECU seem to be the common choice and will set you back closer to 3K$, plus the extras that usually needs to be added on. Then once you've trashed the OEM ECU, time to think about controlling the auto if fitted. Aircon, power steering assist etc. The link and Haltech can do all that but will need to be setup and tuned. The list of mods and bits needed for an aftermarket conversion usually runs on once you've bolted in an aftermmarket ECU. Like wideband O2's, wideband knock sensors, maybe flex fuel etc.. Both ECU's have a map creation model built into them. You just select to engine type from their library, tell the software where all the sensors, inj & coils are connected and it will generate a map for you. I haven't found a tuner who will do a tune for less than a grand tho. Dyno time can range from $150+ per hour. Some good news though, is that these ECU's can refine and self tune provided O2's and knock control have been setup.
There are many other pieces of info I could add / have learnt over the years, head work ideas, fitting aftermarket cams and how to dial them in. The best / only timing belt to use... but it all cost $.
Kelvin from Cartune has a wealth of knowledge too but he's been awful quite on this forum for a while.
I hope your revival of this thread helps to inspire / encourage some more constructive content for the forum as I enjoy following some of the other members projects.
Ivan
It would seem that many members have either moved onto other forums or sit out of conversations.
I do have some comments to add to your best bang for buck mod list. Not trying to sound like a know it all
1. A COP conversion requires an aftermarket ECU. You can not run COP from the OEM ECU.
In my view, if the engine is stock and assuming it runs ok, the best bang for buck is to check / clean / replace the dizzy caps, rotors and plug leads. Fit a new set of plugs and gap correctly. Always run 98 RON fuel, this is a must. Remove any restriction in the exhaust by fitting flow through mufflers, open the air box to cooler air at the front of the car and replace the stock paper air filter with a reusable K&N type.
A link or Haltech ECU seem to be the common choice and will set you back closer to 3K$, plus the extras that usually needs to be added on. Then once you've trashed the OEM ECU, time to think about controlling the auto if fitted. Aircon, power steering assist etc. The link and Haltech can do all that but will need to be setup and tuned. The list of mods and bits needed for an aftermarket conversion usually runs on once you've bolted in an aftermmarket ECU. Like wideband O2's, wideband knock sensors, maybe flex fuel etc.. Both ECU's have a map creation model built into them. You just select to engine type from their library, tell the software where all the sensors, inj & coils are connected and it will generate a map for you. I haven't found a tuner who will do a tune for less than a grand tho. Dyno time can range from $150+ per hour. Some good news though, is that these ECU's can refine and self tune provided O2's and knock control have been setup.
There are many other pieces of info I could add / have learnt over the years, head work ideas, fitting aftermarket cams and how to dial them in. The best / only timing belt to use... but it all cost $.
Kelvin from Cartune has a wealth of knowledge too but he's been awful quite on this forum for a while.
I hope your revival of this thread helps to inspire / encourage some more constructive content for the forum as I enjoy following some of the other members projects.
Ivan
@gloverman we need you back! At least post your videos in the proper forum here as soon as they're on Youtube so we know about them. You're the best!
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