looking for 300whp on a 1uz (NA)

[white_raven]

so i'm starting a 1uz swap in my car, and i'm wondering what is the ability of reaching 300whp on NA with bolt on mods, no ripping the engine apart for high comp pistons, etc, minor head work is ok too.

sort of new to these motors so forgive my ignorance.

Thanks!

 

[stevechumo]

The 1uz engine is a very good engine with a lot of potential for power. But not to discourage you, 300 rwhp is almost impossible without opening the engine or forced induction. A complete stock non-VVTI 1uz is only dynoed about 180 rwhp on the LS400 or SC400. And a VVTI is about 236 rwhp.

 

[Zuffen]

I'd go ITB's on a new lower manifold with cams, exhaust and a good aftermartket ECU and tune.

I'd think 300WHP was within reach.

The heads will flow that without porting but cams and lower manifold with ITB's will let it use the heads capacity to breathe.

 

[white_raven]

hmm 180whp to 300whp is quite a jump.

so do you guys have a itb kit you support or have had a lot of success with?

i found this one, and 2800 doesnt seem to bad for a full itb kit.
http://a1turbos.co.nz/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=A&Product_Code=8TMS1&Category_Code=1QT

but then stand alone... etc etc that will start getting pricey. but $$$ = whp.

 

[Zuffen]

1UZ's and N/A horsepower spell $$$$$$!

Build some turbo manifolds and you'll make your aim easy as.

Lots of stock engines giving what you want on streetable boost and they last well if tuned correctly.

 

[white_raven]

^ thanks for the info... i think the plan is to get the car running with the 1uz and call it good... i really dont need massive whp =)

the swap is going to challenging enough

 

[spf_lexus]

I plan to reach 300rwhp on my N/A 1uz but its a vvti version with 290bhp. All I need is stage II lextreme cams, Rush long tube headers and a dual 2.25" exhaust. The ECU can adapt to the cams + exhaust mods and this should end up around 380bhp, or 300rwhp (20% drivetrain loss).


Since you have the early 1uz (250bhp), you would need a tune to gain more bhp over the stock ecu, or run high comp pistons but 300whp is very doable. Zuffen is right tho, for 2grand, a single turbo under 9psi, fabbed yourself would save heaps of $$. Also, the centrifugal blowers (vortech/procharger) are the best bang/buck and these can be setup for less than $2000 easily..

 

[spdrcr771]

yea buddy, spf, looks like all I need now is the cam's.

 

[spf_lexus]

The cams really wake these motors up. It costs around $750 for the cams and I believe the valve stem "shims" are included which is nice because OEM shims will run you $600+ in custom thicknesses .

 

[4U2QUIK]

The 1uz engine is a very good engine with a lot of potential for power. But not to discourage you, 300 rwhp is almost impossible without opening the engine or forced induction. A complete stock non-VVTI 1uz is only dynoed about 180 rwhp on the LS400 or SC400. And a VVTI is about 236 rwhp.

and with a manual transmission it lays down about 210-219 to the wheels.

 

[white_raven]

ok so maybe 300 is out of the question for this build but I'd like to hit around 250whp...

so i'm thinking
Cold Air Intake
Open up the exahust
manual conversion

what else could I do to get some more power?

and this is nonvvti motor!

is there any more power that I could squeeze out of it with some sort of SAFC?

 

[stevechumo]

Adding those bolt-on mods will cost over $1K easily, and that doesn't guarantee you'll hit 300 rwhp. I don't think no one really hit that with just bolt-on mods. You can have centrifugal supercharger setup with Lextreme's The Fish bracket for less than $2K and you can hit 300 rwhp easily.

 

[white_raven]

this is not going into a lexus, so i dont think that all will cost me over 1k and my car is already 5spd, i just need the adapter plate, flywheel, pilot bearing, and hydraulic throwout, and i can weld and have metal so exhaust and Intake will be easy stuff.

And yea I know I cant really hit 300 without cracking the motor open... but i'm hoping for maybe 250?

 

[stevechumo]

I see. Manual tranny, cams, real cold air intake, headers, exhaust, good ECU that can advance/retard timing will bring you up to 250 rwhp.

 

[DenZel]

ok so maybe 300 is out of the question for this build but I'd like to hit around 250whp...

so i'm thinking
Cold Air Intake
Open up the exahust
manual conversion

what else could I do to get some more power?

and this is nonvvti motor!

is there any more power that I could squeeze out of it with some sort of SAFC?

i made 237rwhp with:
itbs
headers/exhaust
ecu
manual

for comparison

 

[stevechumo]

Manual tranny really bumps up the rwhp.

 

[JBrady]

Highly respected and reliable Lextreme member RMS made over 300hp crankshaft on an unopened Tokyo taxi 1uzfe (first gen motor) with only headers, ITB's and tune.

Stock cams made peak power at 6500rpm on stock ports and stock valves.
Peak torque came at 5000rpm with 270.

With a manual transmission I would think 250rwhp would be more than realistic.

I know the VVTi intake manifold will not bolt on to an early engine but just HOW different is it? Maybe a set of wedge shaped adaptor plates could be made that would allow it. If so my guess is the VVTi intake would be a very good manifold upgrade as it appears the lower intake is a big restriction on the early motors. Even the non-VVTi truck manifolds (2uzfe) although taller could be made to work.

 

[white_raven]

i made 237rwhp with:
itbs
headers/exhaust
ecu
manual

for comparison

What itb's and ecu did you use?

 

[spf_lexus]

I know the VVTi intake manifold will not bolt on to an early engine but just HOW different is it?

John, I have owned both vvti and non and can tell that its doable. I never gave it any thought until i re-read your post. It should net ITB-like gains without the pains of sourcing a reliable air reading/tune. Your "wedge" spacer idea is nice, it would take the 15 or some odd degrees and level it out for a "flush" mount. I dont see why this would not work. Here's what would need to be done:

-Adapt early 1uz throttle body (cable actuated) with adapter plate.
-Plumb the vacuum poppet valve for the variable runner setup (T-VIS).
-Use original VVTi throttle cable (stock is too short).
-Splice harness for longer TPS location.
-Port match your "wedge adapters" to smoothly transition the angled merge.

 

[JBrady]

John, I have owned both vvti and non and can tell that its doable. I never gave it any thought until i re-read your post. It should net ITB-like gains without the pains of sourcing a reliable air reading/tune. Your "wedge" spacer idea is nice, it would take the 15 or some odd degrees and level it out for a "flush" mount. I dont see why this would not work. Here's what would need to be done:

-Adapt early 1uz throttle body (cable actuated) with adapter plate.
-Plumb the vacuum poppet valve for the variable runner setup (T-VIS).
-Use original VVTi throttle cable (stock is too short).
-Splice harness for longer TPS location.
-Port match your "wedge adapters" to smoothly transition the angled merge.

Sean, absolutely, somebody needs to do this. As I said the 2uz manifold even the ones without the variable runner feature would be a better flowing part than the stock early lower. It may also be doable with angle machining a VVTi lower. I like the adapter plate idea slightly better as the manifold would still work with VVTi heads.

This and someone needs to figure out how to get the VVTi heads on an early block... Looks like all it needs is oil feed for the VVTi mechanism.

The stock early block should take 7000rpm all day and with good intake flow and the good VVTi ports and better cams I am thinking more like 350++hp dyno which could be 300+rwhp on a properly set up manual tranny app.