The Flea
New Member
I've gone through 5 frame off restos and 2 full guttings. In that time I've reached a few conclusions about weight.
1) You can't make a big car light and lots of weight will render all of your hard work and money spent on an engine program useless. I used to bracket race with a guy who had seriously 1/2 the torque I had, but his car weighed 1000lbs less and was still faster by 3-4 tenths. When you're doing 8's, this is like an eternity...
2) A few lightweight items can add up to a lot saved, but not usually. The reality is that the weight is built into the car. The 62 Tempset I used to race literally has thicker steel then the Toyota I'm building. Massive efforts were made on my Toyota to save weight from the factory, whereas Pontiac was concerned no one would buy their car unless it looked heavy.
3) It's still better to spend money on shaving weight because it only happens once, whereas an engine program requires money everytime you step up. But, at first only shave weight if it's huge gains. This is really impractical for a Lexus owner.
I hope this doesn't come across arrogantly. If you're new to this particular area of the industry, I hope it saves you some time and trouble.
One more thing. Your Lexus has an auto, you won't save any weight with a lighter flexplate (flywheel for automatics) they're very thin and light to begin with.
Carbon driveshafts are stronger than steel or aluminum. Filimant wound carbon has been used in missile tubes for years. It is incredibly strong. All of the big dollar operations use them.
Light bolts and nuts are a waste.
Glass is thinner and lighter nowadays, so use polycarbonate in extreme cases.
If you want to go fast, start with al light car or have a mold made from your entire LS and have it vacuum bagged using carbon fiber. This should only be about $30K
1) You can't make a big car light and lots of weight will render all of your hard work and money spent on an engine program useless. I used to bracket race with a guy who had seriously 1/2 the torque I had, but his car weighed 1000lbs less and was still faster by 3-4 tenths. When you're doing 8's, this is like an eternity...
2) A few lightweight items can add up to a lot saved, but not usually. The reality is that the weight is built into the car. The 62 Tempset I used to race literally has thicker steel then the Toyota I'm building. Massive efforts were made on my Toyota to save weight from the factory, whereas Pontiac was concerned no one would buy their car unless it looked heavy.
3) It's still better to spend money on shaving weight because it only happens once, whereas an engine program requires money everytime you step up. But, at first only shave weight if it's huge gains. This is really impractical for a Lexus owner.
I hope this doesn't come across arrogantly. If you're new to this particular area of the industry, I hope it saves you some time and trouble.
One more thing. Your Lexus has an auto, you won't save any weight with a lighter flexplate (flywheel for automatics) they're very thin and light to begin with.
Carbon driveshafts are stronger than steel or aluminum. Filimant wound carbon has been used in missile tubes for years. It is incredibly strong. All of the big dollar operations use them.
Light bolts and nuts are a waste.
Glass is thinner and lighter nowadays, so use polycarbonate in extreme cases.
If you want to go fast, start with al light car or have a mold made from your entire LS and have it vacuum bagged using carbon fiber. This should only be about $30K
