jibbby
New Member
- Messages
- 3,824
- Location
- Santa Monica, California
I found this and it looks wicked...That is a Lexus racing manifold on that beast...
Lexus racing intake...
- Thread starter jibbby
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
turboteener
New Member
- Messages
- 119
- Location
- Huntsville, Al
It looks like a Daytona Prototype engine. They look like flat slides. I am guessing they are using it as a mock up to build the headers.
Whats up with the valve covers? They look like some custom numbers.
Whats up with the valve covers? They look like some custom numbers.
turboteener
New Member
- Messages
- 119
- Location
- Huntsville, Al
I forgot where did you get that picture?
jibbby
New Member
- Messages
- 3,824
- Location
- Santa Monica, California
Go google - then type "volvo engine swaps" the first link will show the pic and site...
This setup was made by Erol Richardson...I guess he is the old grey haired guy in the pic....
This setup was made by Erol Richardson...I guess he is the old grey haired guy in the pic....
JustenGT8
New Member
- Messages
- 2,432
- Location
- Canberra, Australia
That's Errol. He's a top bloke and has helped me heaps with the tune of my TTUZ. He runs an n/a UZ in a volvo 244 of all things. A very knowledgeable guy and been around serious race cars for ever.
autronic
New Member
- Messages
- 329
- Location
- Bergen, Norway
turboteener
New Member
- Messages
- 119
- Location
- Huntsville, Al
Yeah I saw the hole in the block. To the mock up table is where all dead parts go.
Look at how long the headers are . Good for low end torque.
Look at how long the headers are . Good for low end torque.
svpmx83
New Member
- Messages
- 93
- Location
- Qld Australia
Slide throttle plate inlet manifold too 
rms
Member
- Messages
- 445
- Location
- Beautiful Narooma
I am the grey haired old boy with big ears (not big ears just short hairThis pic was not supposed to be posted on the net. We are developing the 1UZ for use in the Euroboss, Ozboss and USboss open wheel race car series. Mule engine should be on Dyno in 2/3 weeks time.
Don't think there will be much low end torque, expecting max torque approx 7500 rpm max power around 9000 rpm.
This pic was not supposed to be posted on the net. We are developing the 1UZ for use in the Euroboss, Ozboss and USboss open wheel race car series. Mule engine should be on Dyno in 2/3 weeks time.Don't think there will be much low end torque, expecting max torque approx 7500 rpm max power around 9000 rpm.
Wha-hey, I'm in with both feet again!!!
Seriously though, it was a compliment. As I was typing I was thinking of loads of, shall we say 'very experienced' chaps who produse wonders from mere sheds and outhouses. Ken Tyrell came to mind.
Nice looking motor! Please post much more info.
M
Seriously though, it was a compliment. As I was typing I was thinking of loads of, shall we say 'very experienced' chaps who produse wonders from mere sheds and outhouses. Ken Tyrell came to mind.
Nice looking motor! Please post much more info.
M
jibbby
New Member
- Messages
- 3,824
- Location
- Santa Monica, California
Right on Erol, nice set up as it drew my attention in the pic...
PS. I also like the little motorized plane hanging from the ceiling above your head...Did it ever fly via the remote control?
PS. I also like the little motorized plane hanging from the ceiling above your head...Did it ever fly via the remote control?
rms
Member
- Messages
- 445
- Location
- Beautiful Narooma
Skid,
Some more engine details
Original Toyota 1UZ Block,crank,head castings.
Injection: CNC machined 50mm Slide plate assy, Siemens Deka VII injectors.
Engine management: Motec M800, Motec 8 channel CDI, Mercruiser coils.
Cyl Heads: Extensive port and chamber modifications,at 28" test pressure prototype flows 190cfm @ .200, 251cfm @ .300, 282cfm @ .440, valve train assy is confidential at this stage.
Camshafts: 330 deg duration - .440" lift - .180" lift at TDC overlap,Vernier adjustable pulleys and gears
Pistons: Confidential (to our specs)
Con rods: Confidential (to our specs)
Flywheel: 6.625"OD 4340 nickel/chrome/moly, Tilton 5.5" 4 plate carbon/carbon clutch, weight 10lb clutch and flywheel
Dry Sump: CNC machined 7075 Aluminium,4 compartment,incorporates front eng mount to carbon tub. Pump is Daily Engineering, 4 roots type scavenge, 1 gear pressure, with centrifugal oil/air seperator.
Front eng plate: CNC machined 7075 Al, incorporates idler pulley and revised tensioner pulley adjustment (locked)
Adaptor Eng/Gearbox: CNC machined 7075 Aluminium
Exhaust System: 20# Stainless, Primary 1.875", Secondary 2.125", Tailpipe 2.375"
Cam boxes are lowered so we can keep original engine cover and not disturb airflow to rear wing.
Engines and components will be available for sale and sump,gearbox adaptors etc can be changed to suit most competition vehicles BUT this is not a budget engine.
Some more engine details
Original Toyota 1UZ Block,crank,head castings.
Injection: CNC machined 50mm Slide plate assy, Siemens Deka VII injectors.
Engine management: Motec M800, Motec 8 channel CDI, Mercruiser coils.
Cyl Heads: Extensive port and chamber modifications,at 28" test pressure prototype flows 190cfm @ .200, 251cfm @ .300, 282cfm @ .440, valve train assy is confidential at this stage.
Camshafts: 330 deg duration - .440" lift - .180" lift at TDC overlap,Vernier adjustable pulleys and gears
Pistons: Confidential (to our specs)
Con rods: Confidential (to our specs)
Flywheel: 6.625"OD 4340 nickel/chrome/moly, Tilton 5.5" 4 plate carbon/carbon clutch, weight 10lb clutch and flywheel
Dry Sump: CNC machined 7075 Aluminium,4 compartment,incorporates front eng mount to carbon tub. Pump is Daily Engineering, 4 roots type scavenge, 1 gear pressure, with centrifugal oil/air seperator.
Front eng plate: CNC machined 7075 Al, incorporates idler pulley and revised tensioner pulley adjustment (locked)
Adaptor Eng/Gearbox: CNC machined 7075 Aluminium
Exhaust System: 20# Stainless, Primary 1.875", Secondary 2.125", Tailpipe 2.375"
Cam boxes are lowered so we can keep original engine cover and not disturb airflow to rear wing.
Engines and components will be available for sale and sump,gearbox adaptors etc can be changed to suit most competition vehicles BUT this is not a budget engine.
turboteener
New Member
- Messages
- 119
- Location
- Huntsville, Al
Those are some pretty impressive head flow numbers. Have you found a problem with the end ports on the intakes. It looks like that retarded offset would dramatically affect airflow in those cylinders.
What are you doing for starter and ring gear, is it integrated into your chromoly flywheel? I was contemplating using a Tilton button with the stock flex plate sandwiched between the button and the crank.
Are you limited by race rules on the valve lift? Looks like some good heed flow numbers. Much better than I have seen from others.
What are you doing for starter and ring gear, is it integrated into your chromoly flywheel? I was contemplating using a Tilton button with the stock flex plate sandwiched between the button and the crank.
Are you limited by race rules on the valve lift? Looks like some good heed flow numbers. Much better than I have seen from others.
rms
Member
- Messages
- 445
- Location
- Beautiful Narooma
All ports are offset, the end port may appear different but it is just a mirror image, same flow numbers. This is about as far as you can go with standard head castings and requires different manifold. Heads under test at the moment have extensive welding to allow equal ports on cyl centre line and steeper port angle.
Valve lift limited by rpm range and engine life.
Ring gear bolts to clutch cover, is 7.3" OD. Desoutter air starter is from gearbox side.
You need a custom flywheel, can't run clutch on flex plate, so remove ring gear from flex plate and shrink fit to flywheel.
Valve lift limited by rpm range and engine life.
Ring gear bolts to clutch cover, is 7.3" OD. Desoutter air starter is from gearbox side.
You need a custom flywheel, can't run clutch on flex plate, so remove ring gear from flex plate and shrink fit to flywheel.
Attachments
Hi Erol,
All brilliant stuff. I appreciate some is confidential but it would be great for us amatuers to learn more from your knowledge.
This is interesting. I want to do some work on my heads but only small measured amounts as don't want to cock it up. Any possible pictures and pointers would be much appreciated.
This little section was of great interest as i need to swap my sump and having not much joy and I keep toying with the idea of a dry sump (will be a track day Porsche 944 with 1UZ). I was thinking of an Accusump with a Lexus rear sump set up, however some dry sump pumps on ebay have looked tempting and the idea of having a base machined to suit doesn't seem an unreasonable expense.
True I haven't costed it out yet, but am i kidding myself? With an existing sump for the base measurements is it really too big a job to get one machined up? Is the scraper plate itself not the hardest thing to do due to the tight tollerances? Would you be prepared to publish the dimensions of yours?
Also as I need an adapter for the bellhousing I was again toying with the idea of extending it to make it a rear engine plate. Over enthusiastic, or a bloody genius?
In addition to this plate, to support more of the front of the engine and to help bring rigidity to the chassis, I was wondering if a possible dry sump could incorporate the aluminium cross member the rack is mounted on. Would this approach bring a different set of problems without solving anything, or worth a punt?
Cheers
Mark(skid)
All brilliant stuff. I appreciate some is confidential but it would be great for us amatuers to learn more from your knowledge.
This is interesting. I want to do some work on my heads but only small measured amounts as don't want to cock it up. Any possible pictures and pointers would be much appreciated.
This little section was of great interest as i need to swap my sump and having not much joy and I keep toying with the idea of a dry sump (will be a track day Porsche 944 with 1UZ). I was thinking of an Accusump with a Lexus rear sump set up, however some dry sump pumps on ebay have looked tempting and the idea of having a base machined to suit doesn't seem an unreasonable expense.
True I haven't costed it out yet, but am i kidding myself? With an existing sump for the base measurements is it really too big a job to get one machined up? Is the scraper plate itself not the hardest thing to do due to the tight tollerances? Would you be prepared to publish the dimensions of yours?
Also as I need an adapter for the bellhousing I was again toying with the idea of extending it to make it a rear engine plate. Over enthusiastic, or a bloody genius?
In addition to this plate, to support more of the front of the engine and to help bring rigidity to the chassis, I was wondering if a possible dry sump could incorporate the aluminium cross member the rack is mounted on. Would this approach bring a different set of problems without solving anything, or worth a punt?
Cheers
Mark(skid)
turboteener
New Member
- Messages
- 119
- Location
- Huntsville, Al
I did not mean to imply that I would figure out how to run a clutch on the factory flex plate. I meant using a button. Like this:
http://www.tiltonracing.com/incs/imagethumb.php?picture=d0023
Then bolt that to the crankshaft. The clutch would have its own dedicated flywheel, but the flexplate would allow use of the factory starter location. SCCA and PCA require I have an onboard starter and my transaxle doesn't have a starter location like the old Porsche gearboxes.
My bad I haven't lookedclosely at this engine as it has been up on my frame jig. Kinda outsight out mind kina thing. I just pulled it down today to set it up on an engine stand.
http://www.tiltonracing.com/incs/imagethumb.php?picture=d0023
Then bolt that to the crankshaft. The clutch would have its own dedicated flywheel, but the flexplate would allow use of the factory starter location. SCCA and PCA require I have an onboard starter and my transaxle doesn't have a starter location like the old Porsche gearboxes.
My bad I haven't lookedclosely at this engine as it has been up on my frame jig. Kinda outsight out mind kina thing. I just pulled it down today to set it up on an engine stand.
rms
Member
- Messages
- 445
- Location
- Beautiful Narooma
Flex plate may not be stiff enough without the torque converter bolted to it,and I'm not too keen on anything between the flywheel and crankshaft but it should work OK.
There is only one way to find out!
There is only one way to find out!
turboteener
New Member
- Messages
- 119
- Location
- Huntsville, Al
Wondered about that. Guess we'll find out.
sorry to say but forget about that 1uzfe, I want the Reynard (hewland or ricardo?) box which is behind it.
once that is in the shed I'll decide what engine will go behind it. just imagine what sorts of power you could put through that in a street application..... hmmmmm
dream dream dream.
BTW why sliders?
when I was going the complete DImYself route I would seriously consider makeing Roller-barrels for this sort of project. or go with normal butterfly's and lifter trumpets and injectors as are the F1 crew, at least williams is 100% sure, seen that in real life, and if some stupid UK bloke didn't steel the laptop at a kitcarshow I would show you the pickies.
would you like to explain that choice?
regards Thomas
once that is in the shed I'll decide what engine will go behind it. just imagine what sorts of power you could put through that in a street application..... hmmmmm
dream dream dream.
BTW why sliders?
when I was going the complete DImYself route I would seriously consider makeing Roller-barrels for this sort of project. or go with normal butterfly's and lifter trumpets and injectors as are the F1 crew, at least williams is 100% sure, seen that in real life, and if some stupid UK bloke didn't steel the laptop at a kitcarshow I would show you the pickies.
would you like to explain that choice?
regards Thomas
Similar threads
