HELP, I have a Problem ???

[COFFEE]

Can anyone assist me, please ???

Has anyone had a speed sensor or knock sensor fail ?
If so what were the effects ?

One minute my car is running perfect and the next not even idleing.
When i say not even idleing i mean, turns over if the throttle is open more than half way.
Runs rough as guts, like its running on half the cyclinders.
Every possilbe colour of smoke when you rev it, timming sounds way, way out ?

Got me stumped !!

Checked the fuel line for pressure, changed the filter, cleaned the injectors and checked the pump and filter.
Plugs have done only 20,000km's but cleaned them and checked the gaps, new coils, rotor buttons and caps.
Tested the leads there fine ???? swapped the igniters with the spares i have, nothing.

Oh yeah, have done a diagnostic twice and it also shows nothing ???

Thought maybe the ECU had seen better days so i swapped it with the spare one i have, no difference.

Started checking the sensors, pulled out the cam angle sensors and swapped them with the items of the spare motor i have and also cleaned them and the terminals.

Even swapped the AFM from the other motor.


After reading up on the Electronic Spark Advance system and eleminating all these items as the problem it really only leaves these two items.

The Knock and Speed sensors.

So the question is, has anyone had these items fail and what was there effects on the motor ???

Really got me stumped.

The fact that the motor runs fine one minute and then not at all the next makes me think it may be a bad connection to a sensor rather than one failling all together, but hey, I'm only guessing !


Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

Stephen

 

[sideshow]

if the air flow is faulty or u have an air leak

this will cause the engine to play up when u start to rev it above 2 or 3 grand

knock sensors retard timing so i doubt it would be that

speed sensor only affects the gbox if its an auto

if u have tried another air flow then maybe u have a leak

if u get stuck i can look at it for you for a price as this is what i do every day

 

[COFFEE]

Sideshow,
Thanks for the offer but i would rather try fix it myself.
As for the suggestion of an air leak ???
I would imagine an air leak to be consistant ?
I did say the motor wont idle at all, not even start unless the throttle is opened above half way.

The timing is deffently way out

I am not a mechanic but i am sure it's not an air leak.

If you wished to use your knowledge to answer my questions of the effects of a Faulty or not connected Knock or Speed sensor, that would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

Stephen

 

[sideshow]

what 1uz is it

do u have a diagnostic plug on the wiring

then u can fit a scanner and it will tell u whats wrong

i did that to mine and it tells me most of the stuff i need to know

 

[COFFEE]

Sideshow,
It's a Soarer.
Whilst there hasn't been a Scan tool used to test the diagnostics system, i have used the diagnostics via a jumper between pins and the car reads out on the dash and EMV screen.
Diagnostic showed up nothing which is a real pain in the ASSSSSSSSS !

The knock sensor advances the timing until it knocks and then retards a little to get optimum advance ???
If the sensor/s were getting a bad connection would the car run full advance ?
If the sensor/s were fualty and giving the car wrong info, could the car retard the timing that much to cuase the car to not even want to turn over, if half or more throttle have the effects that i'm claiming ?

Are you saying the speed sensor has no play with the Timing ?

Regards

Stephen

 

[krayn]

Is spark comming from both coils?? Sounds like one might be intermitantly working. Hook up an inductive timing light on the output of one of the coils, and start it up, if its giving a flash on the light move to the other coil. Just a thought

 

[Lambo]

hi Coffee, you say you think the timing is out, and the crank sensor is ok, have you checked that the timing belt has not jumped a few teeth.

Regards
Lambo

 

[COFFEE]

Krayn,
I can't see it being the coils, why ?
Because since it started doing this i have replaced both the coils, the odds of getting a dud i would expect very very low.

But thank you for the suggestion.

It would seem Sideshow doesn't wish to assist with any of his knowledge unless he is paid for it ?

Regards

Stephen

 

[COFFEE]

Lambo,
It sounds way out, but i haven't got around to checking the crank sensor yet.

Going to check the crank sensor this arvo and try get to the knock sensors, hopefully without pulling the manifold off.

Can you assist with any info on the effects that either of these sensors would cause if failling or bad connection ?

Regards

Stephen

 

[sideshow]

nothin is free in this world today hehe

sorry but some of us have to work hehe

the ecu has a programmed advance curve

it has nothin to do with knock sensors

i would think the knock sensors retard timing when they here a knock

they have lil control over the advance

on my scanner while drivin u can see the knock sensors turn on and timin retards slowly then if yr speed increases the timing slowly comes back up

krayn could be on the right track

does it seem like 4 cylinders are down

when it runs ok try disconnect one coil

if this does the same symptons as when it really plays up then thats where you look


start at coil
then coil lead
then dizzy
then rotor

if any of these parts have a prob then u will loose 4 cylinders

u did say if felt like 4 cyls where down so these items above are the main things that will cause 4 cyls to drop when they fail on either bank


ill give this advice for free

next time i will charge hehehehehe

sorry i dont say too much on forums much these days as i dont get much work from them

i know this seems rude but i have to make a living

there are just too many dumb ass workshops and mechanics working out there these days and trust me ive heard some blinder stories

so i try not to give anyhting out

 

[COFFEE]

Sideshow,
I understand that this is your living, thats cool.

As for the Colis, Leads, Dizzy Caps and Rotor Buttons.
I have replaced the Dizzy Caps and Rotor Buttons about 1 month ago and they still look perfectly new, no build up.
As for the Leads and Plugs, They have both done about 30,000km and should be good for atleast 100,000km.
Though i have pulled them all out cleaned them, checked and reset the gaps to 1.1mm and made sure they were all on properly. no change

As for the Igniters, i swapped them with the other motors items and no change ?

For the Fuel system, the line has been pressure tested and set to? i think he said 40psi.
The inline filter cartridge replaced and injectors cleaned.
I even pulled the tank out to see if the Filter on the pump was blocked.
The Tank, Pump and Filter all looked brand new, the Filter was still white and not even a speck of dirt anywhere on the Filter nor in the Tank.
Running out of ideas i even swapped the pumps computer with the spare i have, no change.

It must be a dud or bad connecting sensor !

How ever i have cleaned with a wire brush on a drill the three Temp sensors in the bridge across the heads. checked there terminals and made sure they fit well with no corrosion.
I have done the same with the cam angle sensors.

Didn't get a chance last night to check the Speed/ Crank sensor nor the Knock sensors.

Though i am running out of things to check ?
Maybe the Idle Speed Controller ? ? ?

I really dont wish to take it to Toyota or Lexus so they can have some apprentice take his time, check over the iteams i have already replaced.
1-2 days later, work out what it is and then charge for $60/hr plus all the parts they claimed were faulty !
Been there once before, i'll be right.
As for yourself, i have no doubt that you are a very good Mechanic and have all the tools but like you said " Some of the stories " and some of my own, few, i'll try fix it myself.

If all else fails and i cant fix the problem, i will only then look you up !
So what area are you in anyway ?

Regards

Stephen

 

[Peewee]

While its running, pull one ignitor out, then put it back in and pull the other one.
If the motor changes note/revs its spark related.

Get a hose a put one end in your ear, other end put it on various items.
Check every injector is ticking.
Check all hose connections are leaking air.

Put a timing light on and check timing (number 1 is piston above a/c unit)
Bridge the connector in the diagnostics box before you check timing (TE1 and E1, or T1 and E1)
Disconnect jumper and rev it and make sure timing advances.

Make sure you have full spark and full fuel, then check other electrics.

 

[krayn]

Hi Pewee,
What should the base timing be when the pins are in TE1 and E1, or T1 and E1. I take it the base timing cannot be changed????

 

[Peewee]

Base timing on this motor unfortunately cannot be changed.

I'm not sure what it is exactly on the 1uz as I am running aftermarket.
But most Toyota's tend to be 10degBTDC

 

[sideshow]

no probs

but i think you are chasin the wrong things

first find which cylinders are not working

try unplugging things when engine is runnin to see if they make a difference

im in baulko area but am busy for the next 2 weeks then might be goin to melb soon

for a week

anyway good luck im off to do some work

 

[COFFEE]

Well,

I have let the car sit for a couple of days now and last night changed the crank angle sensor.
No change, still running like a dog !
Did a diagnostic and this time it came up with " EFI NG ".
Where to start ?
Pulled all the injectros back out and checked they were all clean and in there correct position with the leads on properly.
The line pressure has been tested and ok ?

I'll have to find the time Sunday arvo to follow Peewee's advise, use a hose and listen for ticking of the injectors.

Maybe some of the injectors have died ?
Does this ever happen ?
Just payed $180 to have them all cleaned and tested, they claimed they were all good ?

Any advise as to where to start ???????

Regards

Stephen

 

[Cobra]

Coffee
My suggestion to you is to check all your wiring connections. I have just fixed a problem with mine that sounds very similar to your problem.
Over time the wiring connections in the loom under the bonnet become brittle due to the constant heating and cooling.
Mine ended up being the wiring connection between the crank angle sensor and the plug that is situated near the passenger side cam cover.

I doubt very much that your injectors would be faulty considering sometimes it runs and sometimes it doesn't.

 

[COFFEE]

Thank you Brett.
Point taken, i have noticed a lot of my connections are very very brittle.
Try to unplug them and the release pin snaps off, bugger !

Does anyone know if you can buy the individual plugs by themselves ???

Regards

stephen