For the guys using Howe TO Bearing!!

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

rwdfreak

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Montreal, Canada
Sorry if it as arleady been posted, but couldn't get anything out of the search button.

I've got a question for the guy using Howe trow out bearing. Mine is pn.82870.

I made my own adapter using the 1UZ bell. My questions are mostly concerning oil feeding and bleeding and proper instalation:

First: I figured the correct thread on the bearing is 7/16-20 UNF standard on 1/4" Tube. The problem is I couldn't find any good fitting to be able to fit to the M10x1.0 tread for 3/16" Tube that Toyota use and that is already on the car. How did you guys solved the tubing issues?

Second: How did you do to keep the bearing from turning? According to Howe you normaly put a threaded pin in the transmission and it just stop when it touch on one side or the other of the Y made by the oil supply fitting. However it is not something rigid that can garantee it won't move between the Y and put stress on the oil lines.

Third: Those who used many spacers to make the bearing reach the transmission did you had any issues since you need a hell lot of them to rest on the tranny and since they are small and not thight on the shaft they could move and make noises?

Mostly my question is how the hell did you made everything fit properly together? Any inputs will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

For the one not used to what the Howe TO bearing look like.
103_5211.jpg
 
that's a -4 fitting on the howe, you use a -4 braided teflon line from there to your hydraulic master cylinder. the other side has a -4 fitting with a bleeder in the middle. I remove the bleeder and put a -4 line from there leading out of the transmission. and I put a bleeder on the other end of the -4 line.
1267421464477-1876969245.jpeg

like so...

as for keeping the bearing from spinning, I've seen several solutions. One of the easiest ones that I've seen is where my friend removed one of the front plate bolts and replaced it with a stud with a jam nut on one end to hold it in.
 
What took you so long to reply??

If you look carefully I posted that 9 months ago. I had to figure it all myself. I think I've found a very clever way to make everything fit so that the bellhousing is pretty much sealed and everything fit like OEM.

1: I found a shop that can custom made brake lines to my specification. Braided lines cost an arm and leg (actualy it's the fitings), but you pay for what you get. Also it cost more when you have to have it shortened for some reasons (stupid me).

HPIM3733.jpg

2: I know I did it totaly overkill, but this aluminum keep everything in line and just slide smoothly.

HPIM3734.jpg

3:I made a nice looking steel spacer with a 45degree face and a recess to mate the bearing support on the transmission.

HPIM3728.jpg

To be fair it's a pain in the butt to bleed as I instaled the bleeder at least 1 inch too high and it's really close to the tunnel. I also had to make an access panel to tighten the pressure line as I messed up with the lenght of the clutch line going from the factory rigid clutch tube to the bellhousing. When I came to reinstal the longer hose, the fiting inside was turning freely.

Everything seems to fit just like I wanted and I got no issues yet (beside the bearing that was not the right type).
 
that's actually really close to my first setup! and you're gonna hate me because I got off the shelf lines that are almost identicle to what you used. I'll have to see if I still have pics of the prototype setup.
 
1: I found a shop that can custom made brake lines to my specification. Braided lines cost an arm and leg (actualy it's the fitings), but you pay for what you get. Also it cost more when you have to have it shortened for some reasons (stupid me).

Looks really good. Those braided lines get even more expensive if you have to have them lengthened! :D I think I did a boost control line for the turbo in my Supra at least 3-4 times before I was happy with the length.
 
ouch... that's why I like being able to make my own lines. saves so much time and money in the long run even though the initial investment is harsh.
 
Looks really good. Those braided lines get even more expensive if you have to have them lengthened! :D I think I did a boost control line for the turbo in my Supra at least 3-4 times before I was happy with the length.
Glad you like it.

I also had to have one lenghtened, but decided to go the cheap way (aka getting a rubber one) since it wasn't in any crittical area or somewere hard to access. An other bummer is that I went to that hydraulic place at least 5 times before I had every hydraulic lines the right sizes and proper fitting. The thing is that this place is 30min away from my place (one way). On 3 of those drives the only guy of that place that knew how to use the crimper was out for lunch (at 3 o'clock :mad:).

I'm glad most of the fitting is over now. The last 3-4 months have just been crazy (never knew it would be so much work to have it instaled and running). At least now it runs just fine.
 


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