Cfm?

[Quest4Speed]

Sup to everyone here! At the moment I am a owner of an 89' Conquest. It is FI and I spends a great deal of time and money upgrading the dismal designs of early mitsu. engineers. The car is fun and fast with plenty of room for improvement. I am running a hybrid T3/T4 BB at 7psi with the upgrades of pump, regulator/intercooler,banshee cams,adjustable rockers and a much need greddy rebic3 AIC. Lately I've been wanting to build a Hi-Po 4dr sedan! FI ofcourse. So far my choices are 7th gen mitsu. galant(4G63T is plug and play swap), 6th? gen(98-2002) Honda Accord (w H22 swap and T3/T4 spinner, the killings are endless), 4th gen Nissan Maxima(Proven and documented 450HP on stock block/tranny/head/fuel syst. and ECU) and possibly the 1st gen LS. I'm leaning heavily towards the Maxima due to it's performance orientation and Nissans rep. for building stout blocks and engines in general. But I'm searching for info. on the Ls now as far as reliability with a turbo,max potential before buid up/upgrade is required, and what type numbers to expect. It's good to see where the 1st gen ls's have gone. When I had one, there was close to nothing in the way of performance......inexpensively. One company had a SC for it but that was too expensive for what little you recieved and not much advancing with a SC. Another company out this way in Maryland,USA named Swift Racing Swift Racing Technologies - Home Page offered TT packages but only for the 2nd gen LS's. Those guys were up on there game offering built engines, trannies, rear ends and ofcourse twin turbo kits all for the Lexus LS and GS's. After reading through some of the posts here dealing with FI, I've reluctantly noticed No one or Not enough people are speaking in terms of CFM( Cubic-Feet per Minute) with these turbos. No direspect to anyone. I'm still new to the FI game and will be learning until I'm dead or no longer boosting. To a inexperiance person, PSI is PSI. 10 on a T3/T4 is 10 on a 14G. But we no that's not entirely true. It maybe 10 on the gauge but it's something more, possibly dangerous to your engines internals. Id hate to see someones block regurgitate a rod or something. Basically, I'm trying to learn from your mistakes and success, those of you who have FI'd your LS or any car that came with this silky smooth, award winning engine. I'm seeing and hearing guys boost 15,18,20 psi but what's the cfm rating on that turbo you're using. I mean one guy using a 14G can boost upwards of 18 while the other guy with his T3/T4 may max out at 9 -12 psi. Is there anyone running a top line turbo stock(internal) for more than 6 months? I believe the LS engines came with Hyper-U pistons which are an upgrade from most engines and there cast pistons. Correct me if I'm wrong. Any replies are appreciated. Thanks

 

[JBrady]

Lots of questions here and I don't have much time for a long answer... but... CFM is of course cubic feet per minute and is a measurement of volume. While OK it is a variable that changes with temperature. Best measurement is Mass Air Flow which is a measurement of the molecular weight of the air being moved. Many compressor maps list it as lbs/min (pounds per minute) and that makes for a very quick and easy calculation of power as lbs/min x 10 is a good HP estimator.

Yes, all 1UZFE engines have hypereutetic pistons (type of casting). Check out the thread on Pistons as we are working on special performance forged pistons now.

 

[Trvln Nalzmn]

I thought a 14G was small? If I was going to twin turbo a 1uzfe I'd go for at least 16G's. The difference between a 14G and a T3/T4 at 10 psi is the efficiency of the turbo at that boost and flow.

Do you have a budget to change the pistons and rods in a 1uzfe? If not I'd base your calculations around a maximum of 10 psi boost. At that boost many of the japanese 2 litre turbos will be fine and should last for a long time.

 

[Quest4Speed]

Thanks for the replys. I can make a budget to enhance the internal unit with forge pistons/stronger rods, depending on price. As stated before by a member here and through personal experiance,Hyper-u's are a good upgrade over cast. Stock rods are not bad either. From my experiance, any engine can be boosted and will handle a fair amount of boost depending on air flow. As long as fuel/timing and air temp is adjusted accordingly and air volume is with in the the engines capability to congest it. With any car I choose, boost rating is less important to me than HP/TQ output. To be happy and content, 375-400HP/TQ would make this vehicle a so-called contender against most performance cars and should aquire a respectable ET at the track. I do attend the track once in awhile with friends and I do street race here and there, but this car will basically be my everyday driver. It's good to know that toyota over built this block and is more than capable of running with smart boost for many years. Another good thing is that 9o% of these cars were purchased by older folks, family people, people who drove it like it was fragile. So you could buy an engine used with over a 160000 miles on it and not have to rebore or even rebuild it. A simple hot tank of the block, go-over of the rods and crank, new bearings and that work of art is ready for almost anything. The 1uz engine is comparable to the g54b in my Conquest. A very durable bottom end that takes alot to beat down. Previously I partly spun a bearing due to a drop in oil pressure. At the time it was my only means of transportation. I continued to drive it like I stole it. This was for 6months through summer pushing a max of 12psi at 340cfm's(I think) and she heald up though with alot of intermitent noise.. The motor was stock with 160? miles on it needing a serious rebuild, fuel system recondition and new sensors working in relation to the timing of the engine. Eventually I sold the car for $400 and that owner stuck a small 16G on her without No work(idiot) and ran her for another month eventually throwing the rod halfway through the block. IS THIS STORY COMING TO A POINT!? Sorry got loss in the sauce for a moment. Case in point for me is, clean it up, replace bearings,both pumps, lower compression by way of pistons(hyper-u's should be easier to obtain and cheaper) arpstuds everywhere, insure proper oil pressure, air and coolant temps, adequate fuel and proper timing. The engine will handle what I want to throw at it. I like the T3/T4 hybrids becuase of the combo of quick spool for that low end off the line and cfm flow( which I think is 550-600) for high end operation. Most of my running is on the street which will require a quicker than normal spool up. Being that more compression = quicker spool but less boost and lower compression-the opposite, I would like to try for a medium. Something in between,say a ratio of 9 something. Can anyone expound on that? Are anyone running a turbo setup on stock compression ratios? What are the HP/TQ figures? What units are they using and what's the cfm flow? Again, I'm not looking to boost 20,25or 30 psi. If I can get my preferable HP/TQ ratings with 10-15 psi, I'll be happy.