A few simple 1UZFE Questions

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

live4soccer7

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Are there any major performance or strength differences between the 1UZ SC400/LS400/GS400? Anything that would be worth getting one over the other?

I read somewhere that pre-98 have forged internals, is this true for each of those models (if at all).

Thanks for anyone who takes the time to read the thread or provide a response.
 
no forged internals sorry but there are different strengths depending on year. What are you wanting to do , drive car? track car? conversion? do some searching and all this has been covered. Anther good option is to give us more into on what you are wanting to do and we may be more helpful. Cheers
 
wow, I am surprised to hear that none of the years have forged internals. I swear I have read in several places that they did (at least some components). It is actually going in a hilux (all around purpose rig).

I was looking for a motor that had sufficient power/torque, yet was light, not over sized (dimensionally) and decently efficient. The 1UZ seems to fit the description perfectly and have not been able to find a better motor (done quite a bit of research). Let alone the reliability of them is extremely good from what I have read.

With that said, what are some of the different strengths we are looking at over the years? I appreciate your time very very much.

If you have an article cover this, I would gladly read it instead of you repeating it. I will also try and search more for the info as well. Just hadn't stumbled upon it yet I guess.
 
I always prefer newer engines so go for the VVti units where possible. Gen 1 engines are the strongest so if turboing or supercharging this is what most guys start with. Gen 2 motors are lighter but make better power N/A and I feel rev nicer than a gen 1. VVti motors are again light but go really well and work well if left N/A.
 
1st gens are 94 and under, correct?

I would like the option to boost down the road if I want to choose to do so, but I'm not dead set on it.

With the VVti you would have two issues, I would think. The immobilizer and dealing with the ecu when hooking up a 5spd.
 
You might have those issues with the VVti but I have sorted both of them. I make an immobilser box and fitting a manual I have ironed the bugs out there too. Done around 20 now and had another motor delivered last week to wire and just a loom arrived for a separete vehicle. Cheers
 
Very impressive. I have read the article regarding the wiring on the UZ series. Very informative.

Do you have a website? or sell any products to assist with swaps? wiring etc...

It is going into an 84 yota 4runner (22r was the original motor).

In the gen 1 motors, is there any difference in strength or "perks" between the different car models sc/ls/gs.

I will be bolting up a manual tranny. Still working on the final tranny choice.
 
I am a little confused with this information from your site. Do you mean a rear sump for solid axle setups?

"We have mounts to suit from 1980 through to 2004 Vehicles. We have sold over two hundred of our mounts with many happy customers We recommend front sump for solid axle vehicles and either front sump (with slight modification) or one of our custom sumps for the IFS vehicles."

I see you offer motor mounts for the 22r to 1UZ. with your mounts, what kind of body lift and/or suspension is required for how you have the engine sitting? Recipient vehicle is an 84 toyota 4runner.
 
We use a front sump lexus engine for standard solid front axle with stock steering. We have mounts to suit both standard height and body lifted vehicles with either 1 inch , 2 inch(most common) or three inch lifts.

The rear sump from the 1uz fouls the diff as it is not a true rear sump. Cheers
 
My current setup is high cross-over steer from Trail-gear with the lift kit as well. The front axle has been moved forward about 1" with the kit. I am running 1" BL to simply make working on several things much easier.

I want to link the front and rear in the future (after the swap) and drop the height of the rig. Right now, sitting on 37's, the ride height at the frame under the door it is at 29.5". I would like to drop is several inches when the link setup is install to help with COG. The springs are also rather new, so they may drop an inch or so once fully settled.

Anyways, with the given setup, what are your opinions on your mounts vs the setup I am running. I would prefer to not run more BL and would like to keep the stock hood without modification (if possible).
 
As your axle is moved forward I would be doing a large custom rear sump and use my stock height mounts. They sit the motor well back towards the firewall. I prefer not to run BLs myself but it does make life much easier for the DIY mechanic when doing a 1uz conversion. Getting that COG down is much better for overall handling. With the engine in the lowest postion it will allow you to remove the BL later on and still have it under the bonnet ( hood in your langauge). A stock rear sump might be close to working with your truck but I wouldnt bother with that myself and would go straight to making a large volume rear sump around the 10-12 litre mark. I have some photos of a similar setup from over here but I cant find them at the moment. Ill keep looking. Cheers
 
Great, I appreciate the help and I will be ordering some items from you once I have finished up the research on everything.

Would you recommend picking up one from an an SC400? or a different model? From what I've read so far, it seems the SC400 would be easiest in the trucks. You would know much better than myself, given your experience.
 
SC400 would be fine. The oil filter should work ok , exhaust manifolds should be ok , we cut the 3 bolt flange off and fit a smaller 2 bolt if using stock manifolds.

I would be doing a VVti myself as they have that bit more power and torque. There was a 4 door trials truck built over here with one. The builder was really impressed with the power and torque.

Cheers
 
I have looked and looked and looked on any specific information as to the "Gen I" years of the 1UZ. Looking for the stronger 1UZ engine.

Does anyone know this information for sure? I will be purchasing a donor vehicle based on getting the stronger 1UZ engine.
 
Gen 1 engines have billet fuel rails with FPR at the RHF of the rail and alloy air flow meters. The change over year is between 94 and 96 depending on models and markets. 10 series LS400 or celsior are gen 1. They are the ones with the 4 separate pieces of plastic around the plenum whereas the Gen 2 have one big cover over the top of the motor. Cheers
 
what about the sc400, I didn't see any mention of it. I believe they started making that model in 91. I would assume, since it is prior to 94, then it would have the early model gen I motor in it as well correct?
 


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